ellevehc

Updated here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/148156-ellevehcs-gl-build-thread/page-2?do=findComment&comment=1244735 Thanks for the specific help!

So I went on a little advanture to South End in Kent area. Came back with a rear trailing arm out of a 83 gl! It was a really nice looking car. Really like that body style so if anyones looking to trade hit me up! Anyway, here is what I picked up. I am wondering if I can just install that in as is without having to remove the rather stuck axle. Its weird because they look about the same size but this one moves a lot more, but it doesnt look damaged. There are also some nice looking wheels in the trunk if anyone wanted to know.

Just got it off another car. Well post pics when home.

Ok so after some effort I'm taking a break. The shaft seems to have about 3 inches of play, the hub won't spin at all and the pin I'm pretty sure is missing. Lots of hammering has been going on but not much progress... suggestions?

Awesome! Thanks for the details I will go get on it.

Yeah I just wanted to get the visual out there for people. Let the more knowledgeable people fill the the importances. It was on radio. 95.7 or 96.5 I dont remember which one.

I have an 87. I could just take the hub/spindle assembly but I dont know if that would be more or less work than just taking the entire thing and having a spare rear axle. Is the trailing arm connected to the hub assembly with just that one bolt? If so could I undo the strut/shock absorber, axle pin, and trailing arm. Then simply pull the spindle with the hub on it off? Edit: and disconnect the brakes.

I am going to be replacing the entire rear hub assembly/trailing arm interchange between the 1983 and 1987 GL cars? I have a stripped hub and spindle shaft. Its been driven on for about 700 miles now and I would rather just replace the entire assembly than deal with hammering and future bearing issues. Edit: I need to know because locally those are the only subaru gl cars at the yards that I have found so far.

This topic has seem to come up a good bit, so I thought I would make a quick location video while I fix mine. You need to find the connector above/behind the fuse box and disconnect it. It is blue/green. One wire. Very easy to get to. Should take maybe 5 minutes.

You close the butterflies in the carb. That is where it would normally get air and how you control idle. When they are fully closed and you're still idling, you are getting the air from somewhere else. It's a vacuum leak. Probably a hose. Spray certain areas with carb cleaner until the idle fluctuates. Wherever it fluctuates after spraying is where your leak is.

I have some digital calipers. We could take off my drum, I doubt it would take long. Besides I think I will be replacing the entire hub soon anyway.

Ok so looking more into this shaft problem... Is there going to be a way to remove it without making too much noise? Its a "no work" apartment complex so I do everything after management leaves and the neighbors dont mind because I help them with their cars. But I cant be hammering on a pressed in shaft right below someones home. Any ideas? Because I may be stuck with 3wd, or probably 2wd since there is no locker... Edit: I think I may have to just replace the entire trailing arm. It should be a much easier pull from the yard too.

I know my gm A body cars a bit but have a lot to learn. I have been googling around a bit and getting bits and pieces of information. Ill have to contact him about the adapter. Yeah hopefully a mod will give it a move to the right section. Ill be sure to post up more threads. Just wish the search function was a little better, seems a bit cluttered. Ok ill set it back. I didnt take the stroke into account.

Ok so looks like I need to get the weber on asap. The hitachi is eating fuel pretty quick. I drove like a granny and got just above 15mpg. That is not bueno. I noticed that on the weber the secondary starts opening before the primary is fully opened. I have been curious about running it with the secondary turned off.

Awesome! Just what I was looking for. I will try to run a similar setup.

Ok cool. Ill support someone local if they make the adapter. Yeah I tried several things. Problem was keeping the wheel from rotating. These cars are sitting in the air. The rears are drums so I cant just stick a screwdriver in the disc. Put on a tire and stuff one underneath. Not enough traction. Used the jack to "hold" a stud while I tried to rotate but it just compressed the suspension. It would have been easier with two people. Just checked and the jets say 160/170 air correctors. I didnt know the jets were so easily accessible on these. Ok stats on carb: The top jets are 160/170. I think these are the air correctors. The jets inside the fuel bowl are both 140. The primary idle jet (larger one) is 60 and the secondary idle jet(?) is 50

Yeah I have been looking around at how other cars have setup theirs I just didnt know if any of the older model subarus on here had done stand alone fuse boxes. And yes I have searched the site for "stand alone fuse box". Nothing of value came up. Yeah relays have come up a lot as I have been reading around. I would just want to set it up completely manual with a toggle switch on the headliner. O2 sensor I will try to wire separate as well, I want to try to prevent splicing directly into other wires. Getting them to come on with high beam does seem like a really convenient idea though.

Ok so update. Went to the pick and pull. It was overall... a failure... I could not get the axle nut off let alone the shaft out. Im not really sure what part number the shaft is new. I did though pick up a 32/36 DGEV172. It is practically new! Also came with filter. All for 160. Hopefully this is a decent carb for these. I may pick up an electric choke if needed. It is my pretty paperweight for now while I figure out what adapter to get.

I understand the basics of wiring but I am not very confident in it. Does anyone have any good links as to how and why wiring should be done a certain and safe way? My wiring goals will be pretty simple, O2 wideband sensor, and several LED light bars. What I wanted to do was setup a separate stand alone fuse box and run everything off of that. So this way I could flip the O2 sensor on and off, lights on and off, etc. This way I do not end up splicing into and screwing up the stock wiring and most likely melting something. Has anyone done something similar?

Just noticed that the front drivers side cv boot is torn really bad. Guess I will be looking at that on thursday too! If anyone is going picking and pulling on thursday in tacoma let me know! Ill be there probably most of the day.

Ok so found these guys are the closest to me. A bunch of early 90s legacys and a justy. Would the shafts swap over from them? Thought I would post it up while I checked elsewhere. http://row52.com/Search/?Year=1980-1994&V1=&V2=&V3=&V4=&V5=&V6=&V7=&V8=&V9=&V10=&V11=&V12=&V13=&V14=&V15=&V16=&V17=&LocationId=0&ZipCode=98005&Distance=25&MakeId=226&ModelId=&Page=1&IsVin=false Those are the only things between 1980 to 1994 within 25 miles of me. Whats nice is that I think I will also be able to get the hub while I am at it!

I may just end up going with a weber. But going to try to tune it for mileage instead of power. The power valve in the hitachi is busted and its $40 for a rebuild kit, from which I would only use the power valve... I found a Weber that has "50 miles" on it for 160. The part number is 43860. Also a used K551 for 100. I tried googling around for model and part numbers as to what would match up but end up getting a lot of less than useful results. I am also too spoiled with the basic Chevy carbs. I need these vacuum lines gone!

Yeah I have been looking up weber and I may end up running one. Getting the carb out is looking to be more work than I expected. Looks like I would have to remove A LOT of other things to get the whole thing out. I just removed the top end and sprayed the tunnels through with carb cleaner. Nothing seems clogged up. I did strip the bottom press nozzle tip and will need to get a new one ... sigh... But hopefully it will clear up. The jetting is 70,100. Not sure if that is stock or not. Pump doesnt have any rips and seems to pump ok. Not sure where the transitionary circuit is. Ill need to pick up a 36mm socket. I have a decent breaker bar. Yeah it seems to run much better with the 18 or so. Thats around what I run on my 350. Wouldnt think combustion dynamics change that much between the two. I havent heard any knocking or pinging. Getting better power though. Slightly. Yeah I looked around, it is exactly what I was looking for in the past! I should be able to pick everything up within a week or so. Just really want to get the carb sorted out first.

Oh yeah I forgot to mention. I have a wideband O2 sensor setup that I never got around to installing on my other car. How would you guys wire it up? It would probably make this tuning much easier. Anyone in the area is welcome to come use it if they need it too. Comes with software that makes pretty graphs.

Yeah 30 sounds a lot better than my other cars sub 15. Ill mark those down. So I take it I will have to get the drive shafts/stub shafts from a junker car by pounding them out? Row52 is a member? Or a junkyard location? Anyway, update on the carb stuff. Set the timing to about 16-18* BTDC. Hoses... I really dont like the hoses. Half of them didnt seem to do a thing! I assume I only NEED timing advance, PCV, and brake booster hoses? Or do others actually play a vital role? Either way they are plugged in... most of them... I think... hope... After setting the timing I went to the carb and turned the air fuel all the way in. It was about 7 turns out. Too mucho turno out. I set it at 2.5 and got the idle to around 750 with ac on. I drove it around and the idle kicked up to 1200! Not sure why. I backed off the idle again to 750 and it was a little rough. Set the air fuel to 3 turns. It seems to be ok. Drove it around some more and it seemed fine going from the idle to cruise circuit. However, secondary (do these even have that?) opening up had a hesitation. I am pretty sure these are vacuum driven "secondaries" and not mechanical. Also I never did the float level, I was too mesmerized with the hoses. But it seems as those I may have to pull the carb and go through it with some fishing line. Going to run seafoam and see if that will help. 30 mpg seems like a long shot right now. Ok gotcha that makes sense. Are there certain model years/models to avoid? If I go to a junkyard I would like to not limit myself to just one model, hopefully other Subaru cars had that stub shaft?