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jonathan909

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jonathan909 last won the day on January 4

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About jonathan909

  • Rank
    USMB is life!

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  • Location
    Calgary AB
  • Referral
    ej25 phase i vs phase ii via google
  • Biography
    Engineer, amateur wrenchpuller
  • Vehicles
    95&98 Legacy 2.2, 99 Legacy 2.5, 01 Forester

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  1. Okay, then no downside to having one on a motor with an AT.
  2. So why not just always have it there? Why in one case and not the other?
  3. I don't understand. It's just a guard that doesn't contact anything.
  4. I've been meaning to ask about this. Why one and not the other?
  5. Both EJ25S (SOHC), right? If so, yes, but when you do these swaps you generally just trade blocks and keep the intake manifold with the car. That way you avoid any sensor disparities. Oh - does this one mean a change of cam sprocket?
  6. Of course - the difference in both quality and price between OEM and "the aftermarket" is a given. What I was saying is that massive price disparities exist among parts of equivalent OEM quality - that in the stated example, going to the dealer means paying three times as much for the same Mitsuboshi belt. That's all. Not recommending anyone "cheap out"; to the contrary, pointing out that the high-quality/low-price combination exists, so don't get taken. Myself, I like Terry Pratchett's version of that old adage: Make a man a fire, and he'll be warm for a day. Set a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life.
  7. We don't have to get contentious - what you're calling "a treatise" I'd call "a proffered opinion". We do this because the OP may not be aware that such a huge disparity in parts pricing exists, and thus may not know to ask.
  8. Guys, it's always easy to say OEM/dealer, but for an awful lot of stuff it's simply not realistic. There are two dealers here. They quoted me $170 (CDN) for an EJ25D belt - and at that price I would still have had to wait for it to come in from Portland (i.e. no local stock). Instead I landed a Mitsuboshi from an ebay vendor for about a third of that price.
  9. Gotcha. All mine are D. Is it just the 251s that have the valve reliefs, or does that apply to the later pistons (252-255, etc.) as well?
  10. That sounds like a perfectly terrible answer - I despise electrical tape at the best of times, and in this case it's guaranteed to get trashed and spread its disgusting gooey adhesive all over the damn place. But it might be a good diagnostic for a worn latch mechanism.
  11. I have absolutely no idea what pistons these are. I think I asked previously (like before I installed them during the rebuild) how to ID them but didn't get an answer. And it's not as simple as what shipped with a '99 EJ25D, as the original short block was trashed (spun bearings) and I bought a used replacement that (I think) is "somewhat newer". So, assuming I can recall enough detail about them, how can I tell what they are? How many variants are there?
  12. The worst would be a cracked block, but that doesn't seem likely. I'd be getting that timing cover off of there asafp to confirm the water pump.
  13. This isn't a light-and-tinny plate rattle - it's a got-some-mass door rattle. It manifests with normal road vibration; when I wiggle it by hand it seems like there's the play that would cause it. What's left other than the gasket (which seems to be in pretty good shape) and those little springy-things? The latch itself? Do they wear?
  14. Possible but unlikely - I put a new belt and toothed idler in but re-used the tensioner, since it appeared to be okay. But I'll probably pop the cover off and revisit it to make sure. I'd still like the knurling questions answered, though.
  15. This has been drivng me nuts. I replaced those two little springy-things with what seemed light a tighter pair, and the rattle persists. What's the fix? New gasket or something else?
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