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jonathan909

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jonathan909 last won the day on January 4

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About jonathan909

  • Rank
    USMB is life!

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  • Location
    Calgary AB
  • Referral
    ej25 phase i vs phase ii via google
  • Biography
    Engineer, amateur wrenchpuller
  • Vehicles
    95&98 Legacy 2.2, 99 Legacy 2.5, 01 Forester

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  1. You learned right, just as did I. Having "the web" teach you that riding around in neutral is somehow better is just as idiotic as it sounds - doing so is an enormous sacrifice of control in addition to being a lot harder on the brakes. Is the clutch going to wear? Yes - exactly as it's intended to.
  2. Not a "new" member - signed up 4.5 years ago, but just wasn't very active here for a long time (as I was on the other forum). Whatever.
  3. 1197sts - Trying to mate up flex plate and TC? I've managed to bodge that one up too! Gottta be about eight years ago that I had to replace the 4.0 litre straight-six cast iron beast in my '97 Grand Cherokee - it was really high-miles, the pistons had been slapping for years (I just didn't know that's what it was called), and finally put a rod through the block. So I picked up a used mill from a Jeep guy in the city (sidebar: Nice chap, but if anyone's wondering if Canada has hillbillies, the answer is "yes". They come from Moncton, N.B.). After an abnormal amount of swapping of manifolds, water pumps, and brackets (the morons at Xler had reversed the rotation of the pump between the model years, so everything attached to the belt needed to be futzed with), it was lowered into place and ready to bolt up. Only the TC and flex plate (and the block and bell housing) would not suck together. After trying just about every Brute Force and Ignorance (nod to Rory Gallagher) trick to get them to mate, I finally pulled the motor back out in pure frustration. Buddy I'd gotten it from had been running an MT, and I hadn't spotted the pilot bearing in the end of the crank, which by this time had been bottomed into the cavity so hard that I couldn't grab it, nor was there any room for the ol' grease-and-dowel trick. I ended up grinding the sonof@b!tch out.
  4. Thanks - I'll take a look. Appears they're canuck-positive. Btw, are links to other Subaru fora legal here? I posted one a while ago and the entire post disappeared - I assumed a mod had yanked it for that reason.
  5. Thx. Fyi, the Amsoil site says that MP HD isn't sold in Canadia. Looks like I'm gonna have to add it to the list of things to buy when I'm down in Kalispell (along with Beaver Ghost Pepper mustard).
  6. Holditasec... I've never had the heads off of an EJ22 - I've just messed with various EJ25s. Are you saying the intake and exhaust valves are the same size and easily interchanged?
  7. Much appreciated. The main (automotive specialty) aftermarket chain around here is Auto Value - they've got NSK on the shelf for $40 (CDN), which is comparable to the "GD-unapproved" parts Rock carries, once shipping cost is factored in. For a benchmark, one of the dealers just quoted me $120.
  8. I don't think you fully appreciate how difficult and/or expensive a lot of these vendors can be when selling to Canadians. Ebay normally quotes outrageous shipping charges for stuff moving over the border - if they'll ship here at all. If there's something I want/need badly enough I sometimes need to have it sent to a mail drop a friend uses just over the Montana border, then there's additional time/cost/hassle in getting it from there to here (less than a couple of hundred miles north of the border). I'll certainly check the vendors you suggest, but I don't expect any love. As far as either of the local dealers matching a US price - that's a non-starter. But back to my point: I won't automatically assume that Subaru OEM is the best available part - there may well be an aftermarket that's better. (Example: I've been spending some time with the ARP catalog, and those guys are hardcore. I can't imagine anyone suggesting OEM bolts are superior.) That's why I want to hear from the experts on this. At what price is a completely different question.
  9. I wouldn't necessarily make the same assumption. There may well be aftermarket idlers with bearings (e.g. SKF) that are as good as or better than OEM. That's why I asked.
  10. GD, can you give me the definitive guide to replacing this idler - whose parts to buy (or avoid)? I get most new parts from Rock these days - not just 'cause of cheepnis, but because they're a lot less hassle wrt shipping to Soviet Canuckistan. At the moment they list parts from Gates, ACDelco, and Flennor. Are any of these acceptable? How do Subaru OEM compare? If none of the above, whose do you prefer?
  11. Oh, okay. I'm guessing you'd preserve mass in both cases, but I can see how golf-ball-dent knurling makes sense and "regular crosshatch" knurling would create surface roughness that wouldn't hold the oil. Thanks.
  12. Pardon the intrusion here, but I just caught up with this thread and don't know anything about knurling. Is the idea just to expand the skirt by pushing the metal up, giving a tighter fit and reducing slap? How is it done? Chuck it into the lathe and go at it with a knurling tool? Honestly, I don't think I've ever had the sound of piston slap pointed out to me - I don't think I could recognize it.
  13. As you found, a bad fuel pump just means the motor slows or stops. A timing failure can result in a range of symptoms. If the belt skips a tooth (e.g. due to a failing tensioner) the timing's going to be out a little and degrade performance. Or you can experience what happened to me: The toothed idler seized, effectively stopping the belt. But the rest of the moving parts still had a lot of inertia, so the two passenger side timing (cam) sprockets shattered, smashing the timing cover on that side (that part was the giveaway when I raised the hood - lots of plastic bits), while internally three of the exhaust valves were bent by contact with the pistons. All that meant that there was a pretty abrupt THUNK as the motor stopped. I'm sure others here can relate the symptoms they experienced; perhaps together they represent a thumbnail guide to how the failures can present, though it may be less than definitive.
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