jonathan909

This is actually a fairly complicated system, so while it's possible to set up a test jig for diagnosing it on the bench, it's not very practical. Stick with diagnosing it in situ. Also, the TSM goes into detail about diagnostics via the SSM (Subaru Select Monitor), but I have no idea whether any of the PC or smartphone apps like FreeSSM support it. Anyone? Short of swapping in a replacement unit, the diagnostic charts really only offer one potential fault for what you're seeing. Under: TROUBLE CODE DOES NOT APPEAR. DIAGNOSIS: Diagnosis circuit is open. TROUBLE SYMPTOM: The ABS warning light turns on or off normally but the start code cannot be read out in the diagnostic mode. the only possible (serviceable) fault described is that your diagnostic pin grounding isn't making it to the ABS unit. In other words, the diagnostic ground pin (the dangling one) isn't actually connected to ground, OR the diagnostic input pin is bad, OR the wire between that connector and the ABS connector is bad, OR the ABS connector pin is bad. So you can check this with your DVM: Plug in the diagnostic ground under the dash, unplug the ABS connector from the unit, and check for continuity between the diagnostic pin (PIN 4, if I'm reading the diagram properly) in the harness connector and ground. That's about it. Wrt the bleeding, yeah, I've felt that pain. I just replaced all the struts on my '01 Forester (did I mention I wrote off TWO Foresters this year thanks to deer?), and those idiots threaded the brake lines through brackets on the struts, so changing the struts meant bleeding the brakes, and both rear bleed nipples were rusted hard and twisted off, so after snapping an easy-out it was off to the store for a couple of new cylinders. Grrr....

That's exactly how it sounds. From the TSM: -> When there are no trouble codes in memory, only the start code (11) is shown So you should at least get that when you ground the diagnostic pin and turn the key. And make sure you've grounded the right pin and that you're getting the sequence right: 1. With diagnostic pin disconnected, drive the car. ABS light goes on. 2. Stop car, turn ignition off. Ground diagnostic pin. Turn ignition on. Codes blink. I don't have a lot of experience with these things, but did get a feel for it while battling my (late) '02 Forester. I'm also guessing that all of the ABS units are common (someone please correct me on this if I'm off base). My sense of it is that your ABS controller is NFG, but it's still weird that it's alive enough to raise an error, but not able to report it. The unit is entirely self-contained, so you can't just swap in a new controller. Perhaps there's a yard closer to you, but there's a Pick -n-Pull in Hammond, and they charge $64 (plus core) for an ABS unit: http://www.picknpull.com/part_pricing.aspx?LocationID=66&NavItem=1&SearchCriteria=&#partpricing I'd try stuffing in a replacement from the wrecker and see if it behaves differently. Note that the connector has a lock that you have to slide out in order to disengage it, and (of course) you're going to have bleed all four wheels (a PITA). But that'd be the route I'd take. P.S. You also said "For good measure we tried to ground the other pins as well." That's a bad measure, not a good one. You can't predict the results when you do stuff like that. Stick with grounding only the specified pin.

Not around here, it isn't. But I'll be on the lookout.

I'd like to have a list of available sizes, but it's surprisingly hard to find online. Best I can see so far is on autozone, but it's a bunch of gifs. Does anyone have it in some more friendly (and printable) form i.e. spreadsheet or pdf?

Are there actually two speed sensors? I seem to remember chasing that around and only finding one. Or is the one generating the error completely internal to the xmission?

So now that it's more-or-less running, what codes are you getting? I'm assuming that you're doing the count-the-blinks thing to get the xmission errors.

I'm not sure I can help, but with no replies yet I can hear you twisting in the wind and feel your pain. One of the wonkiest faults I've dealt with was after swapping a new motor into a '99 Outback. I won't relate the whole saga, but cut to the money shot. I'd managed to leave untightened the most obvious ground, which is also the one that's not documented in the factory manual: The one on top of the intake, next to the coil pack. The symptoms were that the 3-4 shift point kept drifting all over the place and it was throwing all kinds of spurious TCU errors e.g. complaining about not being able to commmunicate with the ECU. Bad grounds will kick your @$$. You've tried the ECU swap. If you can lay your hands on a spare TCU (I'm lucky enough to have a couple of very cheap self-serve yards nearby) you might learn something by swapping it in. But the "no crank" thing is a different level altogether - that's not a complicated circuit. If the connections are good, there's not much left other than battery, starter, and keyswitch. Can you force it to crank by applying +12 to the solenoid input?

That stuff works, huh? I'll certainly try it first if there's a next time. I didn't much enjoy the heater core replacement on my '99 Outback, and wasn't impressed that I was forced to lose the AC charge in the process. "Serviceability" should have dictated that the heater core be removable without the evaporator having to come out too.

I know it's not much compared to having it rebuilt (I was quoted $2500 CDN), but pretty dear compared to the self-serve yards here. Spring '17 I replaced the 4EAT in my '99 Forester - found an exact match in the boneyard. It was a rough afternoon dropping it on my own (I'd had a major rotator cuff repair - graft - only a few months before and was trying really hard not to trash it, and it was a blazing hot/dry day and I'd forgotten my water bottle...), but it cost $135 ($100 USD today) and worked a champ - until the car was nailed by a deer a year later.

Thanks - they're pretty bad.

I'm happy with the progress on my (EJ25D) block, now it's time for the heads. I don't know what the best way is to clean carbon buildup from the valves, and googling the question just turns up endless spray-this-crap-into-your-intake links. Wire wheel? My old dip tank of Gunk carb cleaner? Ultrasonic cleaner? Combination of the above? Other?

Figured I'd close the loop on this. Issue resolved. There was a PEBTAC (Problem Exists Between Tool and Chair) component in that I (inexplicably) had the top and middle rings swapped. Yeah, stupid, but I don't think it caused the trouble. It was simply that there was a little tiny ridge on the chamfer that was catching the ring, and with each tap of the piston the ring just made it a little bigger. I still don't get what originally caused the ridge to form, but once I dressed it off with a little emery cloth (and corrected the ring order, of course), all four seated in just fine.

You're not missing anything. The parts store doesn't have any magic, just a voltmeter like yours. I mean, if someone had a reason to really characterize an alternator, he'd have a test jig that could spin it at selected RPMs and a variable load so a determination of the power (that is, both the voltage and current) the DUT (device under test) can deliver at specified speeds and loads could be made. But you don't need to do that, and presumably the parts store can't either.

Sure, but overcharging can cause battery failure, and it sounds like you're nearing the upper limit. To answer your earlier speculation, there really aren't any "components" within a regular lead-acid battery other than plates and acid. But charging at too high a voltage will mess up the cell chemistry, alter the plates, and boil away the acid. If it were me I'd be fetching an alternator from the boneyard rather than risking messing up a new battery.

It's worth mentioning too that an excellent long-term investment (in addition to the basics, like a DVM and battery charger) is a load tester. Not just useful at home for diagnosing these sorts of problems, but the only way to find a good battery at a self-serve junkyard. I haven't spent full pop for a battery in many years, and we need good ones, since -40 is not unusual around here in the winter.

My understanding is that there are very significant differences between Subaru transmission filters and anything aftermarket, esp. engine oil filters. There's a huge difference in price (and I'm about the cheapest SOB around), but this is a case where I'd stick with OEM.

Aftermarket manuals (e.g. Haynes), while broadly useful, are never accurate enough for this kind of work - there's just too much subtle deviation in the wiring from year to year. Look around here and you'll find links to free downloadable sources for the authentic Subaru TSMs.

Well, 13.5 (or not too much more) is okay - that's what a 12V lead-acid requires for charging. Thing is, rp2813 is reporting somewhat intermittent behaviour, so while the voltmeter may say it's fine while it's in the driveway, 20 miles down a bumpy road may be a different matter. A tanked alternator is easy; to manually induce the failure in an intermittent one not so much. That's why, if it's reading >13.5V in the driveway, the best way to determine whether it's at fault is to replace it, keep driving, and see if the problem reappears. But there's no disagreement here - all of the above answers are correct.

Perfectly valid point. My experience with alternator failures has been "sudden death" rather than intermittent behaviour, but there's no reason it couldn't be the latter (e.g. a flakey regulator). The only problem is that it's harder to "force" alternator misbehaviour than it is to wiggle a bad connection. Best (cheap and easy) way to debug it is to drop in a replacement alternator (esp. from the junkyard) and see if the symptoms recurr.

That all these functionally-unrelated systems are failing at the same time points to a global electrical fault - as the previous posters suggested, portions of the circuit that are common to pretty much everything. Get the FACTORY TSM schematic, follow the lines, then (and I know this is going to sound really unscientific) start wiggling stuff. That the radio is failing should be a big help - you can turn it on, lift the hood, and push wires around (and remove/reinsert relays and fuses) until you replicate the failure. As suggested, the problem is probably in the main power distribution area. (A few months ago I chased down a similarly transient failure in my 2002 Forester ABS - it was caused by a corroded fuse termination in the fuse/relay box.) As you remove each fuse and relay, look down into the terminals, and if they aren't clean and bright you're probably getting close. This is very much a DIY thing, because chasing down intermittent electrical failures is more a job for time and patience than it is of skill, and you could easily get into thousands worth of shop time if it's a nasty one.

Oh, you're good...

I think I have the picture. I'm not doing anything wrong - I just think I have to finesse this thing a little by dressing the chamfer and adding some lube. Heh - I think that dates us. My first assembly course was PDP-11 (useful when I started working with 68000s later), a night course I took a year or two after I got out of high school. Our instructor was a hard case who wouldn't actually let us use the assembler - he made us hand-assemble all the code to make sure we understood the relative branch calculations. Then the object got entered via front panel bit switches. Oh, happy days...

Perhaps I should word the question differently: If the taper is normal, and your compressor sits on top of the block, how come your rings don't hang up in the chamfer when you insert them? Is my chamfer too rough and in need of a little polishing, should I be greasing it up with assembly lube so the ring will slide down it into the cylinder, or both?

You're missing the point - the chamfer at the top of the cylinder is a larger ID than both the cylinder wall and the compressor, and thus forms a space for the ring to snap into as soon as it leaves the compressor. That's where I'm getting stuck. That's the style of compressor I'm using - with the little clutch. I'm wondering whether surface roughness of the chamfer is the problem, and maybe whether smoothing it a little with emery paper might be enough to let the ring slide down.

No, not ratcheting, just a couple of cheapies. I'm thinking that may be the problem; at the same time, even if the compressor is perfect (e.g. the Wiseco GD mentioned) I still can't see why the ring wouldn't snap open as soon as it enters the chamfer and get trapped just like it is now.