jonathan909
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Everything posted by jonathan909
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Whew - that was a blowout rant. I'm not the slightest bit interested in getting into a knock-down-drag-out on the (WAY OT) subjects of peak oil, the growing environmental depredations associated with its extraction, and global warming here, but they're all real. And they're the pressures that are going to cause the effective extinction of the ICE - probably in my lifetime, but most certainly in that of my kids. Are electrics perfect? Far from it - in fact, around here, at present, they're the worst example of "long tailpipe" pollution, as most of Alberta's electricity still comes from coal (yes, all of those plants are being forced by legislation to convert to natural gas by 2030, but that's a marginal improvement, not a quantum one). So while Teslas are cool, they aren't as meritorious as owners here would have you believe. They may tell you that they pay a premium for solar- or wind-generated power, but that's accounting flummery. Hydrocarbon fuels remain the gold standard in terms of energy density, but there isn't a car company or related industry that doesn't see the writing on the wall, and the investment and effort in improving battery chemistry (and every other aspect of the electric drivetrain) is massive, and will continue to improve to the points at which it's competitive with, then superior to, burning fossil fuels. And that's the viewpoint from the very practical engineering perspective, not the starry-eyed environmentalist one. That doesn't mean we don't have a lot to atone for. The energy of slaves (as fossil fuels haven been described - PM me for references) has resulted in our building an unsustainable society in many respects. Departing it may force us to make very difficult and unpleasant compromises, but compromises that will in the long run rationalize and improve our society. -
It's a small point, but one that separates the knuckle-draggers from the pros: Do not use tape. Just don't. It's amateur and ugly and in time the adhesive turns to goo and you (or the person who deals with it later) will be filled with hate. Use heat-shrink tubing, and the clear stuff so you can see what's underneath. Your work will look like a million bucks.
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- vanagon subaru swap
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Sorry for the drift - it happens. But a simple "yes" or "no" would have been nice. [edit] Found the cross-references. EOT
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Before I put in an order, do I have the right numbers here for the DOHC? 13028 AA072 aka TB 277M
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Did you use your voodoo can? I've got a Chinese tea can - I threw a bunch of dead (computer) chips, bolts, and chicken bones in and glued the lid on. If a problem is sufficiently baffling I shake the voodoo can over it and it's sometimes mysteriously solved without further frustration. I trust that's what you did.
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Pick-n-Pull is my go-to yard because they have two locations here in Calgary. But they're California-based, and do an excellent job with their online database. Right now, they have six (6) 1994 EJ22 Legacys listed within not-unreasonable driving distance (250-350 mi) of you. Not close, but if you need it that badly, probably close enough - as in, you'll spend a day getting there, pulling it, and getting home. One car each in Modesto, Carson City, and Sparks. Three in Rancho Cordova. Unfortunately, no indication whether they're turbo or not (perhaps you can suss that from the VINs - I've never tried). Like any self-serve yard, time is of the essence, and how much of it you have depends on the yard. Here, the big yard (Barlow Trail) moves volume, so you have a couple of weeks to get what you want before the carcass gets crushed. The smaller one (52nd St) will keep a car in the yard much longer. If you're considering any of these, best to call ahead, confirm they still have the car, and find out what their particular TTL (time-to-live) policy is. http://www.picknpull.com/check_inventory.aspx?Zip=93535&Make=226&Model=4157&Year=1994&Distance=500
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Is that OEM?
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Could be the switch or the (delay) timer module as well - check the schematic.
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Any preferred brands for the belt?
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Well, it's a mischaracterization to say that you're "using the clutch to slow down". That's like saying that you're "using the clutch to speed up" when you're accelerating. The clutch doesn't slow you - you're using it to shift to a lower gear, then letting the motor slow you down. The point (of course) is to do it right by matching the revs to minimize wear, which keeps you in closer touch with the state of the machine. GD, I've gotta disagree wrt to learning a manual being "a waste of time for most kids now". It's a skill, and learning a new skill should never be considered a waste (at least, that's my argument to the friend who's telling me that learning how to rebuild an engine is a useless exercise when I can just go buy a used one, especially since I have no intention of doing it professionally). I have two 16-year-old girls - they just got their licenses, and it's important to us that they're able to handle with equal comfort and competence all of our vehicles - standard or automatic - because they cannot predict which car or truck they may have to drive in a given set of circumstances. Plus, they just bought a dirt bike, and they'll be that much further ahead with it thanks to having learned to handle the 5MT in the Legacys.
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You learned right, just as did I. Having "the web" teach you that riding around in neutral is somehow better is just as idiotic as it sounds - doing so is an enormous sacrifice of control in addition to being a lot harder on the brakes. Is the clutch going to wear? Yes - exactly as it's intended to.
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Not a "new" member - signed up 4.5 years ago, but just wasn't very active here for a long time (as I was on the other forum). Whatever.
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1197sts - Trying to mate up flex plate and TC? I've managed to bodge that one up too! Gottta be about eight years ago that I had to replace the 4.0 litre straight-six cast iron beast in my '97 Grand Cherokee - it was really high-miles, the pistons had been slapping for years (I just didn't know that's what it was called), and finally put a rod through the block. So I picked up a used mill from a Jeep guy in the city (sidebar: Nice chap, but if anyone's wondering if Canada has hillbillies, the answer is "yes". They come from Moncton, N.B.). After an abnormal amount of swapping of manifolds, water pumps, and brackets (the morons at Xler had reversed the rotation of the pump between the model years, so everything attached to the belt needed to be futzed with), it was lowered into place and ready to bolt up. Only the TC and flex plate (and the block and bell housing) would not suck together. After trying just about every Brute Force and Ignorance (nod to Rory Gallagher) trick to get them to mate, I finally pulled the motor back out in pure frustration. Buddy I'd gotten it from had been running an MT, and I hadn't spotted the pilot bearing in the end of the crank, which by this time had been bottomed into the cavity so hard that I couldn't grab it, nor was there any room for the ol' grease-and-dowel trick. I ended up grinding the sonof@b!tch out.
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Thanks - I'll take a look. Appears they're canuck-positive. Btw, are links to other Subaru fora legal here? I posted one a while ago and the entire post disappeared - I assumed a mod had yanked it for that reason.
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Thx. Fyi, the Amsoil site says that MP HD isn't sold in Canadia. Looks like I'm gonna have to add it to the list of things to buy when I'm down in Kalispell (along with Beaver Ghost Pepper mustard).
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"Yield"?
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Wow. That makes that one pretty impressive indeed.
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Holditasec... I've never had the heads off of an EJ22 - I've just messed with various EJ25s. Are you saying the intake and exhaust valves are the same size and easily interchanged?
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Much appreciated. The main (automotive specialty) aftermarket chain around here is Auto Value - they've got NSK on the shelf for $40 (CDN), which is comparable to the "GD-unapproved" parts Rock carries, once shipping cost is factored in. For a benchmark, one of the dealers just quoted me $120.
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I don't think you fully appreciate how difficult and/or expensive a lot of these vendors can be when selling to Canadians. Ebay normally quotes outrageous shipping charges for stuff moving over the border - if they'll ship here at all. If there's something I want/need badly enough I sometimes need to have it sent to a mail drop a friend uses just over the Montana border, then there's additional time/cost/hassle in getting it from there to here (less than a couple of hundred miles north of the border). I'll certainly check the vendors you suggest, but I don't expect any love. As far as either of the local dealers matching a US price - that's a non-starter. But back to my point: I won't automatically assume that Subaru OEM is the best available part - there may well be an aftermarket that's better. (Example: I've been spending some time with the ARP catalog, and those guys are hardcore. I can't imagine anyone suggesting OEM bolts are superior.) That's why I want to hear from the experts on this. At what price is a completely different question.
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I wouldn't necessarily make the same assumption. There may well be aftermarket idlers with bearings (e.g. SKF) that are as good as or better than OEM. That's why I asked.
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GD, can you give me the definitive guide to replacing this idler - whose parts to buy (or avoid)? I get most new parts from Rock these days - not just 'cause of cheepnis, but because they're a lot less hassle wrt shipping to Soviet Canuckistan. At the moment they list parts from Gates, ACDelco, and Flennor. Are any of these acceptable? How do Subaru OEM compare? If none of the above, whose do you prefer?
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Oh, okay. I'm guessing you'd preserve mass in both cases, but I can see how golf-ball-dent knurling makes sense and "regular crosshatch" knurling would create surface roughness that wouldn't hold the oil. Thanks.
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Pardon the intrusion here, but I just caught up with this thread and don't know anything about knurling. Is the idea just to expand the skirt by pushing the metal up, giving a tighter fit and reducing slap? How is it done? Chuck it into the lathe and go at it with a knurling tool? Honestly, I don't think I've ever had the sound of piston slap pointed out to me - I don't think I could recognize it.
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As you found, a bad fuel pump just means the motor slows or stops. A timing failure can result in a range of symptoms. If the belt skips a tooth (e.g. due to a failing tensioner) the timing's going to be out a little and degrade performance. Or you can experience what happened to me: The toothed idler seized, effectively stopping the belt. But the rest of the moving parts still had a lot of inertia, so the two passenger side timing (cam) sprockets shattered, smashing the timing cover on that side (that part was the giveaway when I raised the hood - lots of plastic bits), while internally three of the exhaust valves were bent by contact with the pistons. All that meant that there was a pretty abrupt THUNK as the motor stopped. I'm sure others here can relate the symptoms they experienced; perhaps together they represent a thumbnail guide to how the failures can present, though it may be less than definitive.
