Sapper 157

Never mind, I did a little research and answered my own question about the hydraulic brake line. What model year range of vehicles will have the disk brake hub/knuckle that will fit my car?

Okay gotchya. If i do the disk conversion, do i need to change the brake line as well? are there any other parts i need to change (besides new disks and pads obviously) Oh okay. im glad i asked then. Looks like ill just try the rear disk conversion method. That way i dont have to open up that rear knuckle

I'm possibly going to replace my rear wheel bearings in my 05 forester X. So far it looks like there are two options, tapered or ball bearings. From what I have read so far, it looks like subaru stopped producing the ball and now one can only get the tapered bearings. (my understanding is that they did this because tapered bearings take axial loads a lot better.) My question is, when looking on RockAuto, it appears you can get either the tapered or the ball, and it seems the ball bearing is a little longer in size. This apparent size difference will not affect the installation will it? I just want to make sure I get the right part. Also, not sure if it changes anything, but my subie has rear drum brakes and not rear disks. I assume the knuckle is the same but i am not sure. (also, before anyone asks, I am aware i will need a press and I do have access to one) Tapered Timken P/N 513248 Ball Timken P/N 511023

haha it would be all yours Dave!

Thanks for the advice Tom! I'll probably end up sending it for $500.

Thats sort of how I arrived at my estimate of $1200 -$1500... I also had to factor in that I just replaced the shocks all the way around (brand new KYBs) and tires.

Hello all, My 2005 Forester XS gave up the ghost today. The slight knock that I used to hear only on hill climbs finally escalated to the point of throwing a rod. I work two jobs currently, so I dont really have the time to be screwing around with putting a new engine in it, nor do I have the money to pay someone to do it, so I am looking to sell it with the bad engine. What would be a reasonable price to ask for it as-is? It's a 2005 with a good working 4EAT, rebuilt title, nice interior, decent body, all maintenance records going back to when I first acquired the car (about 25,000mi ago), decent paint job (a few scratches here and there),and tires that are only about 7000 miles old. I live in the Spokane/Coeur d' Alene area. I am thinking $1,200 - $1,500 but that might be setting my hopes a little high. *Edit: Forgot to mention that the body has 154166 miles

Coolant In the rad is full. Got an oem t stat in there that was put in about 16000 miles ago. Hoses are good and I will check the fans tomorrow. Thanks for the specs on the tstats Rampage

I have an 05 forester with a 2.5 n/a as my daily. The car sees a 15 min hwy drive almost everyday on my drive to a from work. During that time I have a BlueDriver obd reader feeding live data to my phone. For the longest time, the car has stayed at a rock-solid 187 degrees during cruise at 60 mph. Yesterday I noticed that it climbed all the way to 210 before settling back down to 198. Coolant is full. When I got out to feel the rad hoses, upper one was hot while lower one was stone cold. I’m thinking I have a sticking thermostat, but wanted a second opinion. Am I freaking out over nothing?

Okay got it. Thanks for the clarification. I put the full size spare in the passenger rear and moved the original passenger rear to the front where the bad tire was. Hopefully I can find a used Brigstone Ecopia in town that has about the same wear

Doesn’t the tread depth change the circumference? Therefore I should be worried about tread depth?

So one of my tires decided to contract cancer... and the bulge has started to make the bead slip. The tread depth difference between my full size spare and the other tires is just over 0.100”. Can I run my spare for a little while without hurting the diffs if I put in the 2wd fuse? Just until I can get a used tire that has similar enough tread depth...

Thanks! I'll skip it then and spend my $30 on something more useful.

So ive been toying around with the idea of putting a cheap catch can on my daily (05 forester, 2.5 SOHC). I have heard that there is a much bigger benefit if you have a turbo, but since mine is naturally aspirated, what, if any benefits would I see from installing a catch can?

Quirkparts.com is where I get most of my oem stuff. I find their prices are typically slightly better than the dealer https://www.quirkparts.com/