jk4138

How in the heck do I get the rear rotors off of my 2000 outback. I removed the axle nut but they still don't want to come off. The emergency brake is disengaged. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks.

I just recently bought a 2000 OBW and want to get a small trailer to tow behind for when we go on road trips/camping. Would I be crazy to tow something like this behind it? I would probably run synthetic fluid and get a tranny cooler. What do you guys think? http://racknroad.com/thule-sport-utility-trailer-kit-35x5-1500.html

The OEM filter is a good filter but the cost is just too high. Plus I really am partial to the Purolator Pure One filters.

I am going to do an oil change on my newly purchased 2000 OBW. I have yet to actually pick it up but I want to get the oil purchased that way I am ready to go. I plan on using Mobil 1 with a Purolator Pure One oil filter but needed to know how many quarts of Mobil 1 I would need to purchase. Any advice would be much appreciated.

What weight/brand of fluid do you have in your tranny?

Porcupine- So nothing that looks bad then? I really appreciate it.

What do you guys think about the auto tranny that would be in the 2000 Outback? I am currently looking at a 2000 and was wondering what your oppinions were. I initially wanted only a manual for durability but don't know much about this tranny. Thanks

My e-mail is justink@westernsystem.com

I am in the process of possibly purchasing a 2000 Outback and was wondering if any of you guys have a Carfax account and would be willing to run a report on it for me. VIN # 4S3BH6650Y7622592 Thanks a lot in advance.

I have not called any of the yards yet. I am going to take a look at Spaldings today after work so I might find something then.

Turbone- I will let you know if I end up getting the car. I am definetely interested.

Turbone- Is there anyway I could get you to e-mail me some pics of it. I am definetely interested and would be willing to come out and pick it up. Was it shifting fine before you pulled it out? I could get you the money the same day if it looks good. Thanks.

I am thinking about buying an 89 GL Sedan. The only thing is that the tranny is bad. It currently has a pushbutton 4WD tranny in it. What would I expect to pay for a used one in good running condition and how plentiful are used ones? Any info would be much appreciated. Thanks a lot.

I have a 87 GL D/R wagon and was wondering what is the max speed that I can go with it in 4 hi? I know that vehicles with transfer cases can only travel about 50 mph with 4 wheel engaged but being that it does not have a transfer case does this make a difference? I just don't want to cause any damage. Thanks for the help.

That is kinda what I was thinking. I noticed that on the backside (closest to intake on the carburetor) of the choke housing there is an extremely small piece of wire sticking out on a spare Hitachi carburetor that I have. Is that where the spring is attached in order to build tension? If that is the case I should be able to see if the wire is still sticking out and if not than that would show that it has broken?

Do any of you guys know what it is that makes the choke plate stay closed after pressing down on the accelerator?

So should my choke plate close by applying the throttle and then slowly open once it is running due to the 12V that is heating up the spring inside the choke? The reason I ask is because the choke plate is not closing at all when I apply the gas before attempting to start it. Thanks

Does anyone have knowledge on the electric choke on the Hitachis or is this a great unknown?

Thanks for the help. Does anyone else have any suggestions? I did rotate the choke some before I put on the air filter housing by rotating it backwards towards the spare tire. That however was not when the engine was cold.

So I finally got my newly rebuilt Hitachi dialed in right on my 87 GL Wagon so it is running right and idling smoothly at about 800 rpms when warm. The only problem I am having is the fact that it still is hard to start first thing in the morning. I just replaced the carb with a rebuilt one and the choke seemed to work initially. I have 12V to the choke itself when the car is running but it does not want to close at all in the morning. What would be causing this to happen? I have thought about checking the function of another choke that I have from a junkyard carb and swapping them out. Any suggestions would be much appreciated because it is starting to getting me really frustrated.

Dave- Just let me know what she is willing to take for it. I could get a trailer out there by tomorrow if need be.

PM'd you. I would be interested in it.

That is kinda what I was figuring. Also what is the easiest way to get the passenger side front nut tight being that the power steering reservoir and pump are in the way. I got in there with a mini wrench but don't think I got it tight enough.

I was wondering if there are torque specs for the carburetor base bolts?

Well I am almost positive that some of my starting issue is being caused by the choke because this morning I went out after it sitting overnight in about 30 degree weather and pulled the air filter housing cover to see the position of the choke plate after pressing on the gas twice. Sure enough the plate did not move one bit. It would start right away but just die in a few seconds without pressing on the gas. It took it about 5 minutes to warm up and then it seemed to run ok. Idle still is a little rough due to a small vacuum leak I am guessing. I am not sure if carbsonly.com gave me a faulty choke or if my supply wire is shorting out. This weekend I will run some diagnostic tests on it and see if I can pinpoint the issue.