jk4138

Anyone done this swap and have some advice as far as clearance issues etc. are concerned?

So I am about tired of dealing with my Hitachi carb on my 87 GL wagon and am thinking about doing a swap to a Weber 32/36 DGEV. I found a site that sells the carb, adapter kit, are air filter online. http://www.webercarburetors.com/ppw/html/aplication_guide/subaru.htm I was wondering if this would be a good kit for my application? Also I have read about issues with this carb hitting the PS pump, is this something I will have to deal with or not? I am also worried about gas mileage and passing emissions. Any advice on this swap would be much appreciated. I have read all of the previous threads on this so I am fairly informed. Is there a write-up on doing this swap? Thanks a lot for the advice.

What is the model number on the Webers that you installed. I would like to eventually do the swap as well.

GD- If the spring is missing from the choke could I buy just the spring or do they sell just the choke assembly? Thanks for the advice.

Anyone have any advice? Any help would be much appreciated.

Also do you guys think I should just go with a Napa Gold Fuel Filter or is there a better brand you would recommend?

Here is the issue, when I go out in the morning to start my 87 GL wagon it fires but only goes to about 1500 rpms and then dies. This is after pushing the gas peddle to the floor to apply the choke. I go through this about three times and then it will finally fire and stay running but only at about idle speed. I am thinking that the choke is having issues and might need to have that fixed. What do you guys think? I also am going to replace the fuel filter for good measure since I have not yet done it since I bought it. Also does anyone know of any good carb shops in the Spokane area that I could take it to? I have no experience with carbs and want to get it dialed in correctly. Thanks a lot.

I was thinking of offering about $900 and go from there.

I found this post on Craigslist and thought that it was way to high of a price but I don't know much about the older GL's. What would you guys offer? Here is the posting. 1984 Subaru GL 4X4 Wagon - $1695 My bad back prevents me from getting in and out of our Subaru. Even though it only has just under 180k miles, is a second owner car which has been serviced religiously, has A/C, dual range four-wheel-drive, power brakes, steering, mirrors, and windows, starts and runs faithfully, and is, after all, a Subaru, we have to let it go. It has some rust (being excised and treated) by the rear wheels, but the body is straight and the car could easily be restored. Oh, did I mention the extra studded snow tires-two on rims?

So what do you guys think I could get for it if I was to fix the problems and cleaned it up?

What engine should be in that year?

What year would you say that it was? I was thinking the same thing. I have not actually seen it in person at this time. I have just been dealing with the lady by e-mail.

I am currently looking at an 86 Subaru GL DR with 244,000 miles. It is going to need a new CV assembly and brakes all around. What do you guys think a fair price for this would be? I have included a pic of the outside. The interior is in good condition. I am trying to buy it to resell after fixing it up.

I have heard that there is a primary and secondary fuel filter in the 87 GL Wagon. Is this true because my manual is only stating that there is one canister filter towards the rear of the vehicle. I am just making sure because I am going to replace it here shortly. Thanks

torxxx- I bought the Napa Premium ball joints. They should come pregreased right?

Thanks for clearing that up. I was a mechanic in the Army and they always came greased. I was surprised when the guy at Napa told me that I should of greased them.

I am honestly not sure if they were packed or not. I called Napa and they said that they werent but I was pretty surprised as well. That is why I thought that I would get a consensus.

Well I finally got around to replacing my ball joints on my 87 GL Wagon this weekend. They actually came out really smoothly being that I had access to an impact hammer with a pickle fork attachment. However when I put the ball joints back in I forgot to oil the tops to prevent corrosion and also made the mistake of assuming that Napa packed the ball joints with grease. I am really new at this. My question for you guys is should I pull the joints back out to oil the tops or should they be fine. I imagine that it will just make it a little harder next time. Also should I be fine if I just get a needle greaser and grease the ball joints by puncturing the boot and greasing until grease comes out? Also I drove on them for about 6 miles could I of damaged the ball joint if it was not greased? Thanks a lot for the suggestions in advance.

Thanks a lot for that site. I will definetely check that out.

thanks a lot for the help

Thanks a lot for the advice. Where would I buy the KYB's?

I am in the process of changing out the front and rear struts on my 87 GL DR Wagon and was wondering what brand you guys would recommend? I am thinking of putting a 4 inch lift on it and putting bigger tires on it down the road so keep that in mind. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I am going to do a tune-up on my 87 GL Wagon and was wondering what brand of plugs, wires, cap and rotor you guys would recommend? Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks

Thanks grossgray. What are other peoples feelings on going full synthetic? Anyone experience problems with slippage?

I was wondering if I could use Valvolines Full Synthetic 75/90 Gear Oil in the diff and manual tranny or would that cause problems with slippage. Am I better off just going with Valvolines High Performance 75/90? Any suggestions would be much appreciated.