loyale1993

Dang, seems discouraging because of the head gaskets. I don't mind doing brakes but I'm not wanting to do a head gasket job. Pretty common for those years huh?

I'm in the market for a used car. I am currently the proud owner of a 1993 loyal. It's been a great car but frankly I'm getting tired of maintaining it and I need something a bit bigger. I'm leaning towards another​ subie, I do like the Forester. I'd like to get some advice on what to look for. From what I have found in my price range ($5k) they seem to have around 150k miles and be in the early to mid 2000 year's. What should I expect to have been done maintenance wise? Are there different motors for same models? Any and all info would be great!

Tore into the axle today and swapped it out with a new one. The metal grinding noise is gone now. However, I did have a new squealing noise. So I put the car back in the air and inspected my work and it all looked fine. I sprayed some wd40 where the axle meets the knuckle and the squeal stopped. Drove it a few miles and still no noises.

I'm going to look at it this weekend. I'll leave an update.

OK I did that and no play.

Wish I could weld. Someday I'll take a class and learn

How about checking the bearings any tips?

I just replaced the driver side a few days ago. Now I got something going on with the passenger side. It's not a clicking noise but a metal rubbing noise. Do I need to take it apart to check bearings? I don't have any play when I try to move the tire.

OK. Anyway to tell for sure before I go buying parts?

Can a cv axle go bad with out the boots being torn? I'm trying to diagnose a metal grinding noise on my front passenger side.

Buy you a Haynes manual off Amazon for a couple bucks. They are a pretty good source for these cars and they have the wiring diagrams.

I would check the battery terminals if those are not new. I was plagued with starting issues but the dash lights and everything else worked. It turned out I had some corrosion on the inside of the battery wire terminals. I looked at the most complicated issues first and it was a simple 30 second fix with a wire brush.

I was pretty much right on the money. I bought a socket and checked the torque of all 4 axel nuts and they were all pretty close to 150 lbs. So, with that said, a 235 lbs. guy standing on a 12" crescent wrench adding 3-4 bounces is equal to 150 ft lbs. of torque. It is proven science

I agree. I will pick up a socket for it tomorrow. What size 32,33mm? Got the torque wrench already.

When I did my brakes was the last time I had the hub off probably a year ago. I didn't have the correct size socket so I just used a big crescent wrench and tightened them up as much as I could. I'm not sure how this one got loose beings there is a cotter pin preventing the nut from spinning. I only recently heard the noise coming from that side. It was intermittent so I wrote it off. That car makes all kinds of different noises so I would be a real busy guy if I tried to track them all down lol. I checked into this noise because it was new and I heard it a few times more frequently. Anyway I will check for tightness in another day or so. Probably time to expand my socket collection to torque them down properly. Oh darn I have to get more tools