sirtokesalot

Can I safely disconnect the driveshaft from the rear differential and drive the vehicle with it tied up to the side and the front wheel drive fuse in

2 questions. 1st when buying a u joint witch one do i need? the ones i see online have clips to hold them in however i thoght the originals were staked in or press fit? 2nd for testing purposes if i put the fwd fuse in and disconnect the driveshaft from the rear diff and tie it up to the side am i correct to believe the shaft will not spin and can safely drive it like that to find out if the driveshaft is actually the cause of all the shaking? alternatively if anyone knows how to separate the 2 halves that would ideally be a better option

well i pulled the driveshaft today and the front u joint is a little notchy feeling so i dug out my spare and the front u joint was good rear was about the same feeling as the front was on the original shaft. ugg tried a junk yard and dident even buy what they had for me because both u joints were notchy. so i stuck the spare driveshaft in it anyway just because its front u joint was the good one and the shake definetly changed and is not as hard as it was before but still there. so i guess im searching for a good used driveshaft

I never even thought to check the driveshaft. I wouldn't have thought it would cause shaking in the steering. I may pull it out tonite after work if not tomorrow. I do have a collection of drive shafts i may even have another one that fits the outback around to swap in.

A 2001 Subaru Outback I have new tires front and back and they are balanced letting off the gas does not make the shake completely go away but reduces it by at least 90%

well ive swapped so many parts and replaced all frotn end bushings and ball joints and still have shaking thogh it has gotten better. currently i have a shake in the steering that seems to be speed related and if i let off the gas the shake becomes much less. im guessing its an axle is there any way to tell witch side axle it is? or do i just need to swap them one at a time?

i ended up finding a different free transmission from a 2001 imprezza 97,000 miles that included the rear diff did a 3 hour round trip to pick that up this morning then found another free transmission from a 99 forester 20 minutes from home so i picked that one up too. im thinkin im saving the low mile unit for my car if my transmission ever lets go and putting the unknown mile unit into the yard car.

yea the only thing this car does now is plow my driveway and haul fire wood out of the trails behind my house.

im prety sure somthing is different but it seems like i wont find out what that is without trying to do it.

well the transmission would be free and i am trying to do this as cheap as possible as it is just a yard car that will never be on the road again. so far ive only spent 30 bucks making this car 4 or 5 months ago before the snow came. if the transmission fits in and will at least work in 1st and second gear have awd and not slip id be happy. the car its going into is a 2001 legacy gt. totaled body bent frame overheated block sludgy heads currently has a transmission with a bad front diff in it that whines and recently started slipping in gear.

well i guess ill just get it and spend the day swapping them to see if it works seeing as no one knows

i could also get one from a 2005 forester if that would be a better option?

interesting thing i found out on this. the smell hadent stopped because i changed the belt. the smell stopped because the thing that was burning up finished burning up. i found both my fog lights not working a while after i changed the belt and when i dug into it the entire hid setup i had self destructed from the wires burning off of the bulbs and both ballasts being melted in the centers. i picked at the burnt rubber around the bulbs and it released the same exact smell i had been smelling.

will a 2007 imprezza auto work in a 2001 legacy auto? am i right in thinking the only difference is the transfer clutch solenoid being reversed in the tail housing? i have a chance to get an imprezza transmission free for my yard car witch has a slipping transmission. i dont mind swapping that solenoid if thats all thats different

well its a first for me. found the issue for the fogs not working and also explains the burning smell i had a while ago. both hid bulbs in the fog lights the wires burned off from the bulbs and both ballasts melted and the whole setup kinda self destructed. i stuck my old led setup back into there and the fogs are working again.

i have not had a chance to look too deep into this yet. i have checked the fuse and tried tapping on the relay with no luck. fog lights are not coming on at all both went out at the same time. it may be connected to the burning smell i was having last week as i know the fogs were working when i was smelling the burning smell and now that the smell stopped the fogs are no longer working. changing the belt might have not been the issue. what should i check into to diagnose this further?

i jumped on it blowing up to soon. when it first happened i looked under it with the rear tires spinning and did not see the front axles turning so thought it blew up. i did look again after and noticed the drivers axle pulled out of the transmission. my fault i just swapped the legacy struts for outback struts in front and it likely pulled out a bit while it was apart then came out when i tried to drive into the yard. i got it back together and it is working again.

well it was fun while it lasted. the cars now stuck in my snow filled yard the front diff seems to have blown up because only the rear tires turn now. i wasent even pushing it hard i literally just eased into the snow filled yard got about 2 car lengths in then there was a small pop/clunk sound and the front wheels stopped receiving power. if anyone in ct has a junk transmission that still worked i would love to acquire it for my yard beater.

i think it was the belt. i did not notice the smell yesterday during the 2 hours of driving with every electronic on i could turn on.

i actually have checked the headlight connectors the first night wiring was cool to touch no melting at the headlights. timing belt looks good i changed the alternator belt and well see if that makes a difference today the old one was a bit stretched

the timing belt pulleys and pump are a year old. i could pull a cover to look at it in the morning

Axles are not leaking grease the car has 0 oil leaks i had the engine out last year and did all gaskets under side of the car is dry minus a weeping transmission. The smell was non existant driving home until i stopped at a store. Headlights were not on before store when i left i turned the lights on and immediately started smelling it

The smell went away after few min must have been left over from last night. It was on and off for the drive to work. Still not seeing any obvious source

just started it smell came back almost instantly alternator cable is tight. i do have an alternator belt that squeels for a moment when first started but it stops squeeling within 5 or so seconds could it be belt im smelling?

its a 2001 outback. today on the way home i noticed an odd rubber like burning smell first smelled it about 10 min after leaving work but it went away and figured it was something i passed by or was following but then about 2 miles from home the smell came back and got stronger. not really sure what it could be i could not find any warm wires no smoke anywhere exhaust smelled normal but the car was definitely making a burning rubber like smell. any ideas what it could have been?