sirtokesalot

i got the relays today but i have not located them in my car yet or the connectors so might have to dig a bit to find the connectors. on a second note is there a way to disarm the security without the keyfob? like a disarm wire?

i will check those out next chance i get. it has started snowing here and wasent planning to go out anywhere today the part car is about 45 min from here but im assuming should be easy to find the relay as the dashboard is out of the part car so should give me an idea where to look in mine when i find it in the part car. the b93 is that not the security unit its self? b243 kinds looks like it would be behind the fuse box area but i wont be able to check on that till likely wensday witch is the next time i plan to head up to my friends house with the part car. any other info before i get out there would be nice but ill take it as it comes i dont want to push u on finding it i know it can take a while to search through it all. would the security horn work without the b243 relay? the horn did honk when i set off the alarm. just wondering if maby its already there because the horn did honk.

Programmed the factory fob just now and set the alarm. It does work and honks the horn but my remote start fob does not disable it so unless I figure iut how to bypass the alarm for the remote start I'm going to leave it in valet mode. For now I'll just focus on the dome light delay.

from what i can tell the security module is in valet mode currently 2 rapid flashes every few seconds. i kinda want to leave it there because i have a remote start installed with its own lock/unlock buttons as well and did not intend to use the actual alarm more just want the delay function. i mean i could probly use the alarm but id have to figure out what to wire in from the remote start to bypass the security but it would be easier to just leave it in valet mode. the security light does the rapid double flash every few seconds with engine off and it stops blinking while running. i might mess with it tomarrow but its too late to be having horn honks and lights flashing outside right now

im going to guess there's something els tied into it as well. i plugged the security module in and the security light int he dash started flashing but no change in the delay

I beleive this one is that plug. its funny because i saw the picture of the plug u sent and went i could swear i saw that behind the radio 2 days ago and it sure looks like it. i will patiently wait for the answer and thank you for checking over what id need to make this happen for me.

hmmm i was looking for that module as well as it was one of the ones i was suspecting had to do with it. i couldn't even find the plug for it. would it be visable with the dash board in place? also if its not there would u know what relays and fuses would have to be put in? i will be hunting for it again.

there was another module there but i dont remember what it was. so the security module has to move over as well? i dont think my car has the security on it. it was a base model that has been upgraded with almost every feature offered at this point. is there any other modules it ties into? i can swap those next itme im at my friends where the part car is

i found the module and swapped it with a part car one and got it half working. the lights delay when i get in the car or get out of the car but do not turn on when i shut the car off

would u happen to know where this lives in a 2001 outback?

ive noticed that my older 1998 outback and my friends 2002 outback have a delay feature in the dome lights where after getting in and closing the door the light stays on a few seconds then fades out or after shutting the car off the light will come on and stay on after u get out and close the doors for about 10 seconds. what module makes this happen? my 2001 outback does not do this the lights only come on if the door is open or if i use the switch. once i shut the door its off immediately no fading out no delay.

well they were all a little worn but nothing wild. only one of them was worn into the copper thogh but not very far so yes one was worn more than the others.

well heres my verdict. the engine rebuild did help it i no longer hear the rattly sound while accelerating but the knock still exists when cold. at this point i accept that the knocking im hearing now is piston slap as it quiets down now within a minute of running even at idle and is smooth and quiet after that so rebuilding it did help alot but still have bad pistons in it causing a slap when cold. i do believe there was something els going on besides the piston slap due to the rattling sound going away after the rebuild. i am happy with it now and at least have the peace of mind knowing there's nothing serious wrong in the engine at this point.

well today we put the engine back together with standard sized bearings. i used the engine that was in the car. we tore it down sunday and it was in very good shape no visible wear everything we could measure was within spec not sure what was knocking we suspect it was from a lack of oil due to a partially clogged oil passage in the crank for cylinder 1. the rod bearings were lightly worn but i dont think should have caused the knock. i reused the pistons if it still knocks now its piston slap. i wont know for sure until wensday when the head gasket set arrives unless it arrives early. engine has new rod and crank bearings new piston rings and every seal on the block has been replaced. it should be basically a new engine. i might pull it again and pit pistons in it if it still does it but for now i want the car back before snow and ice comes and it should run fine and id feel better with it knowing everything inside is new.

so the stock sizes wont be correct then? the rods have no scoring and the crank has no scoring the rod bearings seemed to be the only worn part on the crank. why would the pistons need to be knurled? i would be using the pistons that came out of the engine and what do u mean with the rings? im sorry i just dont understand it. i am mechanically inclined but this would be the first engine ive torn this far down and done rod bearings on. i have changed rings before but on smaller engines and i just ordered the ones that were for it. so far i havent ordered anything yet for the forester block. i tried a valve adjustment today on the engine in the car now and it did not change anything. my mechanics stethoscope showed up today as well and i can say the sound is definitely coming from the block and i can hear a distinct metal on metal knocking sound from the block very faintly still but its in there.

so when ordering rings and rod bearings ... do i just order the standard size? the oversize ones im guessing is for if u have to get the crank redone or use bigger pistons?

Well that forester engine turned to hell. I tore it down and got the pistons out to find rod play in all of them. Not alot but still there. We split the case and pulled all 4 rod bearings they were pretty much toast but the crank is good and measures in spec and the rods measure in spec. So if I keep going this route it's new rod bearings new rings and new head gaskets as well as all the small o rings and crap to reassemble the case.i will also not use any other part of it besides the block. The heads were full of sludge the oil pump sludge oil pan sludge starting to wonder if I should bother with this block or not. I mean the clock looks good and is in spec but where els could sludge be that I cant clean out? This is not the engine that was in my car. This is another engine I had sitting around from a 2001 forester I parted and scrapped. I might just spend the time and redo this block. At least I'd know it would be like new inside when I finished and shouldn't have to worry about engine issues again for a long time.

this engine does kind of have a hidden history i left out. the car belonged to my mom before me. 2 years ago the head gaskets let go and it mixed coolant in the oil started to overheat then got towed to my moms house where they then moved it 2 or 3 times in the yard never drained the oil/coolant mix and it sat for nearly a year before they towed it down to me to change the head gaskets last year. the cars done about 7000 miles since then and the knock has been slowly presenting its self. i think this is the reason behind it all. i have a possible plan c as well now too. i have the forester block with low compression but on top of that i have a friend whos looking to replace his wrecked subaru .... he still drives it but its technically totaled anyways hes going to look at a rust free car today that needs a transmission and i told him if he buys it ill do the work of swapping the transmission from his old car and whatever engine he wants to keep ill make be in the new car but i want the extra engine for payment so that might work out for me but i wont know till later if he went and got the car or not. im likely going to go out to my friends house later after work and pull the heads off that forester block i have to check the internals and see if its a worthy swap. the forester block is low compression but did run without knocking last time it was in a car it just ran poorly.

i honestly think its a rod knock in the making.

Would there be any bad effects of using the pistons and rings from my current engine in another engine? I'm trying to figure out the cheapest way to get a quiet running engine from what I have. If I pull the pistons and rings from my current engine and say put them into the low compression engine then use my current engines heads and new head gaskets. Would there be any bad effects of using old rings and pistons?

This is after idling 10 minutes and then the 20 min drive to work. Few stoplights before I got there. U can hear it when I accelerate and it goes away when I get up to some speed then I stop again and hear it lightly again near the end. have to listen closely.

i dont know why it quoted you i cant seem to remove it. heres another clip of how it sounded this morning starting it about 5 minutes ago in 30 degree temps. in the video it sounds a little less loud than in person but still noticable.

it is possible its just piston slap but it still bothers me. the low compression engine i have did run and drive from where i got the car to where the engine was pulled and i know that engine did not knock it just had low compression so ither way it goes ill likely still slap new rings and head gaskets on that engine redo the heads and have an engine to swap in this summer if it lasts the winter witch im thinking it will due to it not really getting worst minus when its really cold. it doesn't fully go away when its warm but it does get much quieter.

well i changed it today and its still there. im likely going to build another engine for it that doesn't knock for next summer or whenever it lets go. it might never let go it might just be severe piston slap ither way i dont like it so engine swap will be in order as soon as i can ither find a good one cheap or get this low compression one rebuilt

im starting to believe its a bad tensioner. i took the drivers timing cover back off and with a 2 foot extension i listened around the block with one end to ym ear and the other on spots around the block. the left and right heads are pretty quiet if i take the oil cap off and listen inside the crank case i hear nothing knocking if i put the extension above the timing tensioner i hear the knock and if i put the extension down on the tensioner its self i hear it the loudest through the extension and i can feel the knocking as well on the side of my ear while listening to it. im going to pull the tensioner off my 2001 forester parts engine and see if that fixes it hoping to get the job done tomorrow night or Thursday. the timing belt was new about 4000 miles 1 year ago but the tensioner was reused. it should be fine to just reuse the belt i would think yes?