sirtokesalot

i did the head gaskets and yes the heads were machined flat. i did not want a failure on moms car. unfortunately i did not see the transmission failure coming it drove great for the 3 weeks i drove it after the head gaskets before i gave it back to her. i had also repaired all other issues it had while i had the car including replacing missing trim parts from the interior. when i got the car she said to do the head gaskets witch i did then proceeded to clean the car fix the burnt out dash bulbs find and replace missing rear headrests found a rear hatch panel installed newer subaru radio and tweeters swapped plastic window switch trim for wood had fuel pump failure and put new used pump from one of there parts cars wet sanded and polished both headlights replaced upper coolant hose new timing belt and water pump no check engine light came on in the time before trans failure and all emissions monitors were ready when i gave the car back to her.

i currently do not have pictures of the car but i can do my best to describe it. it is a 2001 outback has the wood trim interior is clean complete all working exterior is ok has some scratches and dings poor rust repair in the rear but solid 180,000 miles new head gaskets last month my mom wants nothing more to do with it and is tired of putting money into it the transmission failed. i want to buy it from her for the 500 she wants and put a trans in it then sell it what should i ask for if i do this? i was thinking it could be worth around 1800 in its current shape with everything mechanically and electrically working with new head gaskets am i right on this price?

sounds like water pump or t-stat housing. closely inspect the area i suspect you should be able to see a wet spot where its coming from. it could even be a loose hose clamp on the lower hose.

if i need a jack in the yard i just rummage throgh other cars until i find a jack in the trunk somewhere.

update it passed emissions yesterday.

dont use armor all unless u plan to use it religiously. if you use it then stop using it armor all will cause it to crack faster.

well i figured out a way to make it work. the wiring harness in the rear had been messed with before every wire at the 2 main connectors to go to the hatch was spliced and crimp connectored with tape around them. i did manage to find the gound wire that signals when the doors open at the main plug and followed it up tot he top and spliced into it / extended it to the light. 2 of those 4 wires that were at the light were not connected to anything they were simply cut off about 12 inches into the ceiling from the light.

well i replaced the whole light assembly with a known working one and i still have no door light function from the rear light. it works with the switch on but not on door still. i did notice the front light comes on when i open the hatch today as well. as a side note i took the one from my moms car and put it into my 1998 outback and it worked in my car. i did some more digging into the wiring and theres for some reason 4 wires under that light. 2 of them come in from the hole the light slides out of and 2 other ones coming in from the side both sets of wires appear to be factory one of them was cut and spliced into the other one. i dont know maby ill just add a new wire to the door switch side of the light from what ever wire it is thats working the front light so the rear will work too.

ill have to check these out. wouldn't the fact that the hatch ajar light comes on mean that the wire in that loom is ok or is there a separate wire for the cargo light vs the hatch ajar light?

so ive been fixing everytihng i find wrong on moms car before she takes it back on monday. when i open the rear hatch the light in the cargo area will not come on. the hatch ajar light in the dash does come on when the hatch is open and the rear cargo light does turn on if i click the switch to on but wont come on when the door is open. is this some kind of common issue could someone possibly point me int he direction to fix this?

this car is fighting to stay dead.so first it was head gaskets then the transmission issue. after that it drove 8 miles home sat for 40 minutes and then wouldent start. that metal cap with the o-ring on the fuel pump popped off and blew the o-ring out. so fuel pump came out re attached the cap and bent the metal tab back stuck a hose clamp around it and it ran again managed to put 80 miles on it. my step dad is gonna bring another fuel pump from the parts car when they come to pick it up next week.

problem solved it was a broken wire in the transmission. thank you everyone who chimed in about this.

its lit solid until i start the car and then its just constant flashing at the same rate never stops. im thinking im going to just get the pan gasket and some fluid pull the pan and inspect it.

there is no cel on only flashing at oil temp light.

ill have to get the tcu code next time im there i left the car 7 miles away at my uncles garage. i did not want to drive it far with that light blinking. i so far only drove it about a mile to see if there was torque bind (there is not) and transmission seemed to shift fine throgh all gears and again to move it out of the garage to a parking space so the car wasent in my uncles way.

hmmm there is a small dent in the pan i had a jack under it because i dident want the trans to drop down on the frame when the engine separated from it but i also used a 2x6 board from end to end of the pan so i wouldent push in the center. i cannot remember if the dent was in the pan before or not. i was thinking this could be an issue but wasent sure the dent is not very big.

so i got my moms outback back together today had the engine out for head gaskets timing belt and water pump. everything went well until i went to start it up. the engine runs great however the at oil temp light is now flashing constantly. it does not seem to be experiencing torque bind and seems to drive just like all the other subarus ive driven. what can cause the light to flash constantly? i did not touch any of the transmission connections with exception of the 2 cooler lines at the radiator. is it safe to drive it with the at oil temp light flashing? i would like to get it back home now that the engine back together. its in my uncles garage 7 miles away. fwd fuse did nothing but car was running when i put it in. i took it back out because it did not change the symptom.

i am doing head gaskets on my moms 2001 outback and i need the torque procedure for the heads.

well i messed with it again today couldn't stop the leak i could get it to a very slow seeping if i added a rubber washer but no matter how much i tighten it it still leaks. im about to give up and run it with only the external cooler for now. i have a point and click temp gun whats is considered too hot for transmission fluid? i would be pointing the temp gun at the bottom of the trans pan. this way i can watch how hot it gets after a few trips and see if it is enough cooling for it.

well the point is that i have an external cooler already. i figured it out myself i just drove it there and pulled over regularly and checked the trans temp at the pan with a point and click temp gun. unfortunately the fitting on the old radiator is not the same so i messed with the flare end a bit and got it to i tihnk seal up. the trans actually runs around 40 degrees hotter using the radiator cooler vs the 4 inch by 10 inch external cooler. im going to run it throght he radiator cooler a few days to be sure its not leaking then im probly going to hook up the external cooler in line with it as well as long as no leaks from the original one.

anyone? i need to know if it would damage the trans to drive it about 20 miles with only the external cooler i installed. i want to get to my friends house so i can get the fitting thats leaking from my old radiator. the cooler is 4 inches wide by 10 inches long and its mounted right behind the grill so it gets airflow blown right throgh it.

is it a bad idea to bypass the cooler in the radiator and run an external cooler in front of the radiators? would it damage the trans to run it with just an external cooler? the cooler on my radiator has decided it doesent want to hold the fluid in it at the elbow connection.

well had to reset the light after the cat was changed due to a code now everything except ev is ready 130 miles driven ev wont ready up again now. what does the evap system look for to allow the evap monitor to ready?

i think i might have answered this myself by just doing it. once i put the extension on and hooked up the rear o2 / cleared the code the catalyst system readied up within 10 miles. currently im down to only the ev system flashing now witch was ready the other day so its just a matter of time before it should all be ready and i can get it into emissions.

i have a 1998 outback today i changed the exhaust. i saved the cats from my 1995 legacy because the ones on the 1998 outback i had a feeling were failing. when i put them on today i realized they were actually different the 1995 cats were a single part from the header to the cat back section where as the 1998 outbacks were 2 pieces. the o2 sensors were also in different locations. will the older 1995 cats work in my situation? its all bolted in now the only thing left is to make a extension cable to plug in the rear o2 sensor due to it being farther back and it does not reach the plug. my plan is to make a male to female extension plug to plug in the rear o2 sensor. i changed them due to the p0420 code and the catylist system never readying and i know for sure the 95 cats worked.