sirtokesalot

well this is how i managed to get it to run in delay mode using the original wiring and motor. in run mode it is intermittent and as far as i can tell wash mode was using the same wire so cannot get full cycle to run for wash it also runs intermittent so to get a second swipe or 3rd swipe in wash have to shut off and cycle again. i might go back in later and do some relay trickery to make it run full time for wash cycle but for now im leaving it as is. however as far as that goes the brown wire is the full cycle and if its connected to the spot where the black and green wire are going it runs full cycle. my idea is a relay to connect the brown wire to the black and green that would be triggered off the washer pump in front so when the washer pump is running the relay would connect the wires and run it full cycle constant. oh and this went into a 1998 outback relay from a 2002 forester.

nevermind i stripped the harness down and found out the black wire from the motor was on another plug. its working now

i have the rear wiper delay relay harness and motor from a 2002 forester ive been trying to figure out for hours i want to get it running and install it into my 98 outback so i can have the intermittent rear wiper however i cannot for the life of me figure out how to wire it as no matter how i search in google there is no wiring into on how to wire it to the car. does anyone have a wiring diagram / relay pinout for a 2002 forester or really any model with the intermittent rear wiper relay?

well i got it done however one stud snapped car runs again now with pump changed. do u think this will be an issue? i still have the tank from the forester if it will fit.

Yea j took my other car to work had to charge the battery and put gas in it thogh it's been parked since winter started. but yes 8 of the 10 nuts just rounded over was thinking I might be able to hammer a smaller size onto them but wont know till I try later.

ok have the problem located new issue the fuel pump nuts are all round 2 sizes smaller and wont come out anyone have any ideas how to remove them? car only cranks no sign of life but if i bang mon the tank or fuel pump it stumbles and tried but wont stay running i believe the fuel pump went

hello i need ideas what to check please i am late for work allready called them as i was pulling out of the driveway my 1998 outback ej22 stumbled and stalled rolled back into the driveway and is now a crank no start what can i check to try and fix this? does the 98's have the fuel pump issues like the newer 2000 cars?

i have a theory why that code comes on so many cars but not on others. the cats on my car had the o2 sensors setup one before the cat and one in between the 2 cats none at the end. when i replaced mine i used the cats from my 95 witch had abotut he same miles on them but did not give a 420 code the o2 sensors on the 95 cats are in front of the first cat and behind the second cat. so my theory here is what if u got an o2 sensor bung and had it welded on behind the second cat plug the one in the center and move the o2 sensor behind the second cat would possibly correct the issue?

ive seen the hose clamps on the filter leak from being loose on 3 different outbacks so far id check there.

ooo yes i missed it was a just legacy and not outback. im not sure if they will fit that car.

i have a 1998 outback and can tell you that 205 55 r16 fit on mine great and do not rub anything speedo shows faster than really going though but not off much 215 60r16 also fit but very close and on mine they will rub on the mud flaps speedo way off using that tire.

nope. ive done the lower ball joints and inner/outer tie rods rotors brakes ive come to the thoght that maby its play in the steering rack it does have slight up down movement in it. i have another rack but haven't put it in yet been lazy with it and just driving it like that.

thank you. i got the car today drove it to friends house running on 3 cylinders or maby 2 and a half i dont know just know it ran like crap. trans shifted great thogh and went into all gears so its def getting pulled for my moms outback. im also planning to pull the calipers off for spares on my car as well as the axles starter alternator and most likely save the diff as well the rest will be going to scrap. if the junk yard will take it without wheels and suspension i might take the shocks and springs too for a lift on my 1998 outback.

will the transmission from a 2001 forester work in a 2001 outback? im picking up a free parts car today mainly for the transmission. it runs but on 3 cylenders and its kinda beat up cars not worth repairing.

is it a manual? not sure if the 95-99 radiator would work but i have one was ment for an auto but the trans cooler fittings leak radiator holds coolant would be great for a manual 20 bucks its a newer radiator boght from junk yard car because it appeared to have been replaced recently then found the trans cooler leaked trans fluid externally from the fittings and couldent get it to stop.

i thought 95-98 was same am i wrong? i have a 95 engine and trans in my 98 outback.

yes it had done the ticking once before and once after an oil change

does anyone know of a good video showing how to remove the lifter? i have a spare head for parts that did not tick before the timing pulley seized snapping the camshaft off in it.

I can say no ticking after it sat 4 hours until my lunch break seems to be intermittent after its sat overnight it sounds alot like a valve tick next time I hear it I'm going to try to get a video.

I noticed the other day a tick when I started the engine that went away within a few seconds and today that same tick was back and I did not notice it right away I had driven about a half mile before I noticed it.sounds like a valve tick once I noticed it I free revved the engine once in neutral and the tick went away and was silent normal running from there to work. Should I be worried about it? Is there anything I could do about it? This is on a 1998 outback with the 1995 2.2 engine

or worst snapping the cam end off leaving the belt in tact

ditch the k&n it doesn't filter as good as a quality paper filter and ive seen them cause issues from the oil in the filter getting on the maf and causing running issues. ive also seen a nice dusting of dirt inside the throttle body after using k&n filters for long periods of time.

ive had the cogged pulley seize on my 2.2 engine causing the belt to yank the cam so hard it snapped off and had to replace the head and belt/pulleys my friends 2.5 had the bearing completely disintegrate on the smooth idler causing it to jump out of time and make a serious racket but did not damage valves and he was able to just replace the pulleys and belt.

well when i would post it on Craigslist it will have a new used transmission in it and would drive fine again im basically trying to figure out what i should ask for it with everything working and all the recent work done.

rear subframe was in good shape the transmission is done its making a loud clunking sound when it is in gear moving and gets faster with more speed. they thought it was an axle or u-joint but it got alot worst very fast and the shop they brought it to said it was coming from inside the transmission. i cant check it personelly as my mom brought the car back to vermont and it would need to be trailered back here for me to put a transmission in it. my plan here was to get the car here grab the transmission from my friends blown up 2001 3 cylinder forester and drop it into this outback. i can get the transmission for basically free id have to change a few parts on his car in exchange for it.