sirtokesalot

i finally got one of the 2 to ready up. was so excited to see the ev status being ready when i checked it today only the c system is not ready now and once i swap the cats and o2's into it from my old car that system should ready up as well. its going to pass emissions

new question same topic. would the 2002 forester transmission work in a 99 outback? i know someone that could use the transmission and would buy it if it fits.

i have a 1998 outback it originally had the 4.44 gear ratio but the original trans had a hard shift from 3rd to 4rth and the diff whined very loud i swapped them when i did the 2.2 swap and put the 3.9x ratio diff and trans in.it works fine and has been in for almost 2 years now but i dont like how sluggish it is to accelerate and how hard it is to keep speed the original trans was able to move the car around much easier. would the auto trans from a 2002 forester fit into my 1998 outback? i have a friend with a forester that has a bad engine and could probly get the transmission cheap. i had driven his car before the engine went and know it shifted very good and had no sounds to whines i could detect.

well i ordered one on ebay. i tried.

mine was tucked way up behind the fuse box area. they don't always put them in easy to find spots or in my case even mount them to something. i also have a 98 outback.

yep i grabbed the knock sensor from my friends 2001 parts car and re pinned it into my old ones connector. it was a one wire knock sensor like the one that came off. problems fixed.

can the knock sensor just fail out of the blue? i have a 1995 legacy 2.2 in a 1998 outback the car drove perfectly normal last time i drove it and this morning when i tried to take it to work it had no power and a p0325 knock sensor code that if i erased would come right back.

i have attached a picture of the ecu i have. this is the old one but i replaced it with one of the same model ecu's does anyone know if this is the type that these systems wont ready?

i am not sure the original ecu failed and i had to replace it with a used one but im not sure what year it came from all i know is that it was the same number ecu as what was in there originally. the car is a 1998 but again not sure what year car the ecu came from. i have not tried to take it to emissions yet ive been putting that off until i need to re register the car becuase ct will allow one fail if its the first fail and still let you re register the car.

well im at about 1,500 miles no check engine light but catlyst and evap monitors are still not ready. should i presume that i have one of those cars that will just never ready those systems and that i should pass emissions?

more afraid now i checked out what i have vs the new wheel and the air bad connectors are different. now will there be any harm if i were to cut the connectors off and solder them to the airbag that fits the new wheel? would the newer airbag work in the older model?

yep cam and crank sprockets were different swapped them over and it fired right up.

today i help a friend of mine pull an engine from a 2001 outback and put the engine from a 2000 outback in its place. we had to swap the intake manifolds due to differences in the throttle body and electronics. everything is together but it will not start. the engine cranks over but does not fire. engine ran in the other car before the swap what are we missing? the 2001 engine ran but had a bad head gasket and was driven on over heating for about 20 minutes and the 2000 engine that went in was running fine in the old car 2 motnhs ago when it drove 25 minutes to the house.

anyone know? the only thing im really curious about is the airbag. i dont want to plug the newer airbag in and have it go off when i reconnect the battery or set the light on the dash. the only reason i want to change the wheel is to have that nice looking wood wheel. the 98 wheel is ugly.

will the steering wheel from a 2003 ll bean outback fit and work in my 1998 outback? i know i can swap the cruise stalk so that connector will be correct and i can wire the horn to work but will the air bag from that year work with my system?

i dont think its a 1996 ecu. i used the ecu that was in the car originally and i did have to replace with a used one of the same model due to cooling fans not running but not sure what year it came from. i have the next 2 days off but im not sure if the rains going to let up for that time might have to wait a while as rain is forcasted for the next week.

(1) i do have the cats and 02 sensors from the 95 legacy that the engine came from they never gave any p0420 codes in that car. the 95 always passed emissions. (2) when i did the engine swap i moved the charcoal canister and the 2 sensors from the strut tower with the 95's engine as i did not want to unplug them and risk not hooking them up the same way. im guessing im going to have to stop by a junk yard and get those 2 sensors from the strut tower from a 1998 car i think they were a little different and again figured the ones from the 95 engine would work. (3) what size hoses and how much of it would i need to replace all the rubber lines in the evap system? (4) thats interesting so i could disable the obd2 port and they would test the old way huh. id rather fix it right but if all els fails...

not likely. my old car had a new filler tube and i saved it and installed it on this car last year due to the filler tube being rusted throgh when i got the car. i also have the old cars gas cap on this car.

the catylist one not clearing does that mean it needs a new cat converter? i have the ones from the 95 car still and the o2 sensors from that car they never gave any codes should i put these on the car for that issue? i feel like the evap might be hooked up wrong but im not sure. the 95 engine had a charcoal canister in front that the 98 did not have and when i put the engine in i did not know how to bypass it so i just moved it with the engine was this the wrong thing to do? i have 280 miles since the check engine reset currently and it shows the systems not ready still. check engine light should click on in the next 100 miles from the way its been going.

im having issues trying to get my car though emissions. i haven't brought it in yet because my code reader of awesomeness is telling me the catylist monitor and the evap monitor are not ready and they wont ready before a check engine appears for p0440 and sometimes p0420. this is on a 1998 outback with the ej22 from a 1995 legacy in it. the car has a newer filler neck in it with no rust what do i have to do to get these systems to be ready so i can get the emissions tested?

update i put the tires on today they get really close to the mud flaps and i think might rub the passenger one under the right circumstances witch i think i could fix if i just put an extra screw in it because that mud flap is loose. but they fit. heres a few pictures of how it looks now with the bigger tires. downside is the speedo is off 5 mph when the gauge says 50 its really doing 55 on gps. these are the 215 65 r16 and heres a before with 205 55 r16

1998 outback i would think it is controlled by the ecu.

i had a similar issue with my fans and found a pinout of the ecu then checked with a volt meter if the ecu was sending the signal to the fan relay. in my case my ecu was not commanding the fans on.

can anyone verify if this is correct conversion of the wiring for the alterntor? http://bbs.22b.com/forums/showthread.php?31949-Alternator-Question-2-pin-to-3pin

back at this again never did it before need to get it done now. my current alternator is making some really crazy squealing sounds most likely a bearing. i have a newer style 3 wire alternator but my car uses the 2 wire setup. what way do the 2 wires on the car need to connect to the 3 wires on the newer style alternator?