sirtokesalot

this. i had to knock that pin out and put it back in on both my 95 and my 98 when i was doing a trans swap.

i feel like this is a bit beyond me. would there by chance be any connecticut members willing to help me out? i can still drive the car wherever ill just jump the fan again if needed.

did some more checks i jumped power into the fan and the fan does spin up. i have been looking at it backwards its the a/c fan that is running and the main fan is not coming on. i found another relay for the main fan above the under dash fuse box and swapped it with its known working friend the rear defroster and still have no main fan running. im pretty sure the relays are all good as they will all turn on the a/c fan. what is the chances the ecu could be bad? the wiring diagram i have shows there controlled by the ecm. im fairly capable of electrical work but not so great at diagnosing it.

ok i have rpaired the ground wire for the dirvers side fan and the power wire for ither low or high speed not sure witch on the passenger side fan. now if i plug in the green connectors under the dash i have the drivers side fan running not sure if its cycling between low and high but it cycles on and off the passenger side a/c fan still wont run even if i turn the a/c on. when the a/c is on and the compressor cycles on the drivers fan spins briefly but does not keep spinning only when the compressor cycles on. im sure if i let the engine warm up it would probly come on. what should i be looking into about the passenger side fan not working?

i had a simalar issue at my local dealer who had cut me a new key for my 95 legacy from the vin code but then 2 years later told me they could not do the same for my 98 outback

got an update. the ground wire is broken off the car side of the fan connector on the main fan if i jump a ground to it the fan cycles with the green connector pluged in. i have not tried this on the passenger side yet

not sure if it means anything but driving with the fan unplugged is causing a p1520 code to come up witch my scanner says is radiator fan relay 1 circuit high input.

ahhh yes dam i always forget to do that. its a 98 outback. and as i stated in my post i used the green connectors under the dash to test and see if the fans were working witch is how i learned they were not working. so the relay for the fan is in the fuse box under the hood witch means its probly not the relay as i swapped all those relays around trying to get the fans running in new jersey.

yes i checked the radiator when i checked it. i still have not got to it as i had to work today. is there a relay for the fans?

i went to six flags new jersey yesterday it was fun no issues driving there. about 30 min after leaving there thogh the car began overheating. it never got to the h but overheating none the less. pulled over and figured it was low on coolant nope coolants full. thought it was because i was running the a/c shut a/c off started driving again it starts overheating again. second time pulling over now i decide to plug in the green connector under the dash to find out if the cooling fans are running and i have no cooling fans both fans would not run low or high speed. i found the fuse for the cooling fans but it was good tried swapping it with one of the other fuses in the box no change. i dont know where the relay is for the cooling fans so i did not try swapping a relay unless its one of the ones in the engine fuse box i swapped all those relays around. in the end i wound up using a piece of the speaker wire from my subwoofer setup to run a constant power from the battery directly into the fan so the fan would run high speed for the 130 mile trip witch got me home. so now its home and i dont know why the fans wont ruin is there any common issues for this?

spent some time looking for that topic but i cannot locate it. had it back int he garage today checked the pins again they are moving freely the pads are not stuck ither also did tire rotation just to rule out it being a possible bent wheel issue is still there. i havent tried removing the abs fuse yet.

it stays the same when turning vs strait the front drivers side hub and rotor was replaced before i bought the car and were visually in new condition but was missing the abs tone ring i replaced the passenger front rotor. i also found the abs fuse was missing when i bought it you make me wonder about the abs but it does not feel like abs.i have checked ball joints and control arm bushings today when i replaced the passenger inner tie rod because it had play. the faster i go the more it will shake when i touch the brake. i can say the pins were not seized 3 months ago when i had the left side apart and the right side was not seized when i did that rotor last month.

1998 outback recently tried new rotors new inner tie rod and new tires i still get a wild shaking in the steering wheel when i brake. could this play be coming from the rack? the car has 265,000 on it ball joints check good bushings look good car drives strait doesent pull just shakes when braking.

find the plug for the subaru keyless unit there should be 2 of them. one of them is a smaller plug the other one is a larger plug u want the smaller one. pin 4 and pin 5 on the smaller connector is the ones on my unit that had to be jumped together to get the locking back to normal operation when i installed my remote starter/removed the subaru keyless entry. it should be the 2 wires on one side of the plug only one side will have 2 wires next to each other the other side should start out with a wire but the second spot on the plug would be empty.

if you have the luck of your engine leaking massive amounts of oil like mine was all the bolts come out very easy

did u use a gauge set to determin the freon was low and did u recheck after filling to be sure it was correctly filled? that sound could be too low or too high on freon it could also just need some oil added.

is the a/c fan rubbing on something maby? hard to tell you without actually hearing it.

the unit that im trying to unprogram is installed in a 1998 outback the one i want to stay programmed is installed in a 1987 bmw 528e now. both units are model h7110as011

yes i used this site to program the fob to the second keyless unit. i am trying to un program the same fob from the first keyless unit it was programmed too.

dam i only have one fob. i have the subaru unit h7110as011 both units are the same number. the fob was originally programmed on the subaru but then recently reprogrammed to the second subaru keyless unit i have witch is in my bmw now. would someone have a spare key fob for sale seems like it might be the only way to get it to work without controlling both cars.

does anyone know if its possible? id like to plug the keyless unit back in on the subaru because the interior light delay does not work with it unplugged but i dont want my key fob locking/unlocking both cars.

i have a keyless unit in my subaru i had programmed the fob to before i installed the remote start now the remote start key fob controls the subaru. i have an extra keyless unit i have installed in my bmw and got the fob programmed to it but its locking and unlocking both cars at the same time. how can i un program the fob from a factory keyless unit?

ill swap with you i have a slightly modded stock exhaust that seems louder than it should be i want quieter

i used a stiff plastic brush and i forget what i used as the soap it might have been laundry detergent and dish soap. just rinse it later suck it out with a shop vac and let it dry in the sun

power wash it scrub it wet vac it multiple times and leave it outside to dry for a week drive the car without carpet while drying. i got the white carpet on my 1987 bmw pretty clean doing this. i did not take a before shot but this was after cleaning it had some stains like you had in the center areas under the seats before. if your planning to replace it anyways it wouldent hurt to try.