sirtokesalot

ok here we go. i currently have the remote start unit unplugged its in the car but not hooked into the car in any way. the at light is still flashing. when the remote start was installed i had triple checked wiring diagrams for both the car and the remote start as well as verified they were correct with a multi meter on the car. this is how i installed it. main harness of remote start 3 of 9 wires used black wire ground grounded though white wire pin 1 from original keyless unit plug. white wire +/- light flash output wired through pin 11 on original keyless wire harness brown wire horn output wired through red/green wire at harness from column light green factory alarm disarm not used green\white factory alarm arm not used yellow ignition out to alarm not used white\blue activation input not used orange ground when locked anti grind output not used red/white trunk release not used remote start harness 4 out of 5 wires used black/white neutral safety switch wired to ground through toggle violet/white tach wired to blue wire at coil brown brake shutdown input wired to white/black with silver dots at brake switch gray wired to hood pin blue white rear defogger not used heavy gauge relay harness 5 of 6 wires used pink output to primary ignition circuit wired to red/yellow at ignition harness purple starter output wired to blue/red at ignition harness orange output to accessory wired to red at ignition harness 2 red 30a input wires wired to black/yellow at ignition harness pink/white output to second ignition accessory not used door lock 2 wire harness blue unlock wired through pin 9 on original keyless harness green unlock wired through pin 1 on smaller original keyless harness pins 4 and 5 on original keyless smaller harness plug were jumpered at the connector to make the drivers door lock/unlock with key fob. i cut no factory wires i had male and female harnesses i cut from a junk yard car and made this unit capable of being unplugged from the car and possible to plug the connections back in like it was never there witch is how it is right now.

something got messed up not sure how. i had the remote start installed and working for the most part im 995 sure it was installed correctly. the locks were locking/unlocking the panic worked light flash and horn honk worked but it would not remote start. i had been messing with it for about 9 hours in my uncles garage and decided i was tired of messing with it and put the car back together so i could go home this is when something happened. before this step everything was fine with the exception that remote start was not working after putting the dash panel back in now when i start the car the at temp light flashes 16 times like its a solenoid failure but i do not have torque bind. what did i do? i cannot fond any blown fuses the car still drives right at temp light goes out after flashing fwd fuse does nothing but still i do not have torque bind.

does anyone have a good wiring diagram of the locations where i would need to tap into to install a remote start? i have a 1998 outback limited does anyone know if this is accurate? http://www.commandocaralarms.com/wiring/1997-1999/Subaru/legacyoutback/1901.html

i just havent been to a junk yard since this happened. im planning to grab a few bushings next time im there

Not sure why 3 posts occoured. Please delete the other 2 my phone posted too much

I've had my 98 outback on the road about 700 miles now since the engine swap using a 95 legacy 2.2 motor. The p0440 code has come up 3 times now resetting it each time it just comes back a few hundred miles later each time. What do I need to look at? When I open my gas cap the woosh sound is not present like it was on the 95.

this is the result of a buddy of mines car after he was rear ended. the person that hit him caught just the left corner it was bad the whole corner was pushed back so much there was about a 2 inch gap opened up between the rear hatch and corner that u could look into the car throgh. we spent a few hours with a large hammer and a come along pulling it out to what you see today. if you dont mind things being wrong but looking ok id just make the panel sit right again and drive it if it still drives fine.

they are tires from my dads car. they have been stored indoors for about 8 years no signs of dryrot lots of tread still left were inside a heated basement. the 205 55r16 i have now looked small to me but again they are the tires that my mom gave me with the wheels they did look to be close to what was on there and my speedo is still accurate compared to gps. i dont have a spare 16 inch tire ither can i use one of the 15 inch tires as a spare so long as i put the fwd fuse in if i use it?

i have a 1998 outback i currently have 205 55r16 on it. will 215 55r16 fit without rubbing? i have a chance to get 6 free tires in very good shape.

how bad is it? can you post a picture?

yes that is exactly what they are doing. thank you for finding the video.

i did not want to go back outside earlier because it was still raining the rain has let up i went out and checked the wipers there is no play in the bushings that the wiper arm mounts to but there is play if i move the wiper up and down the window. both wipers move together about an inch and a half travel on the glass.

the wipers on my 1998 outback park in the normal position but when i turn them on the drivers one slaps into the windshield trim on the drivers side is there a common issue to this? i dont think its the wiper arm being out of adjustment as they do park at the bottom of the windshield and are both flat across when parked.

today i noticed a slight thunk when it is in reverse i stuck my head under the car with the door open and held my foot on the brake and tapped the gas i could see the rear diff housing jump up and then set back down closer inspection says the rear diff bushings are bad can this cause my vibration?

i have the subaru keyless entry control unit part number h7110as011 under the dash of my 98 outback. when i had the cover off of it i noticed a bunch of small switches inside do these switches control functions?

exhaust hitting might be possible it was at first and i bent the heat shield up to stop a rattle pretty sure its not touching but i suppose getting the exhaust down and pounding it up farther would not hurt. trans mount and cross member are from the other car witch did not do this before. i did not know that dog bone mount on top is supposed to be adjusted it seemed like it could only go on one way and i just bolted it on at the end of the engine swap in the position it rested in could this be my issue?

its hard to determin id have to say more than every tire turn. i feel it at slow speeds around 10mph through 25mph and if i let off the gas the vibration stops if i push into the gas harder it stops as well.

so i have new tires i have installed the engine transmission driveshaft and rear diff from my old car witch did not make the vibration before the swap. can the cv axles cause a vibration as slower speeds that feels like a transmission chatter or light misfire? i know the transmission was solid and not slipping at all before the swap same with the engine it was not misfiring before the swap. its also not throwing any codes of any kind. if i do put the old cars axles in would it be smart to put them in opposite sides from what they were originally? its a 1998 outback limited with a 95 legacy l engine trans diff and driveshaft. the original transmission driveshaft and rear diff also made this same vibration around the same speed witch also leads me to believe its not transmission drive shaft or rear diff related.

got it there was one way i had not tried yet that i thought i did.

ive been trying everything i can think of and cannot figure out how to make a relay come on only when the high beams are on. i have the low beams constant grounded so the lows and fogs stay on with high beams on i have installed extra lighting i want to come on only when the high beams are on but i cannot make the relay trigger. when i attach the relay to the high beam wires the stupid relay only runs when the low beams are on then shuts off with high beams on i want the opposite of this. i tried every configuration of wiring the relay in front at the headlight connection i could think of and i can only achieve making it on with low and off with high beams or having it come on all the time. today i spent some time trying to get it to work from the wiring under the dash after the high beam switch but this is also proving to be difficult. how can i make this work? i dont want a separate switch for it i want it to just work with the high beam switch.

how hard would it be to say add this function in if i were to get the switch from a 95 for the door lock?

my 95 legacy the power locks worked by pushing the lock on the door or by using the key in the drivers door would work all the locks as well. the 1998 outback i just got has a button for power locks witch works but the key in door only unlocks/locks the one door and does not power lock/unlock all the other doors like the old car did. did the 98 outback have this feature? if so how can i test it?

and finally after all this time my friend has drilled the bolt and re tapped it new bolt in new gasket no leaks been holding fluid for about 2 hours now. now the outback has the full driveline from the legacy l wagon witch runs and drives very good compared to the original driveline that was in the car.

well i pulled the exhaust and pan today got the rtv off it wasent even fully dried in the middle after sitting 4 days though it was dry on the edges rtv came off fairly easy stuck the pan back on for now with 4 bolts and have it ready for my friend later who is coming down after work to drill the bolt out as i do not feel comfortable doing my first bolt drilling in a transmission. exhaust had to come down because it was in the way of drilling the broken bolt. hopefully if all goes well it will be sealed up by the end of the night and ill be able to drive it for the first time with the new trans installed. i bought a gasket because i dont want to wait for the rtv to dry again.

wet sand and after use clear coat.