sirtokesalot

mine has alot more rust than that i think it would be fine for years to come even if left alone. i dont care too much about mine as it was a 300 dollar car 2 years ago and hasent needed any real work i plan to drive it till it falls apart.

i rotated the tires and it changed nothing if the belt shifted the shake should have followed to the rear but it did not. same with a bent wheel shouldent the shake have followed to the rear if this was the case? the shake is not much more like a light vibration in the steering wheel it starts around 65 mph and doesent really get worst going faster

so ive had a bad inner tie rod for some time now i always figured it was the cause of my wheel shaking at highway speeds. today i changed the inner tie rod and re aligned the car but the shaking is still there just not as bad as it was before. i cannot find any other bad ball joints or bushings in the front end and i balanced the tires myself at my brothers shop on the machine all tires balanced out to 0. what can be causing this? i have a 95 legacy l wagon

the car has a roof rack. my plan was to put a piece of plywood down over the roof rack so there's a flat surface for the tv to sit on then use like 4 or 6 ratchet straps to strap it down.

so i want to give my friend my old tv however this is a 60 inch dlp tv very big but not very heavy yet still weighs a bit. how bad of an idea is it to strap this tv to the roof of my 95 legacy and drive it an hour and a half across the state for 58.7 miles including a stretch of highway? i have talked to police and they have told me it is not illegal to travel with something on the roof it just has to be properly secured. i could detour a route that has no highway but would be more miles and longer drive.

you could try an o2 sensor spacer. is it the code p0420? try a spacer there pretty cheap and might get you by for a while the spacer holds the o2 sensor away from the exhaust witch in turn will make it read slightly less than it normally does sometimes tricking the ecm to thinking everything is fine.

is it the 2.2 or the 2.5? the 2.2's are less liely for failing head gaskets i actually havent seen a 2.2 with bad head gaskets yet but i havent been in the subaru game much yet just a few years. the 2.5's are the head gasket issue motors.

the current part list is a trim panel for the rear hatch - an arm rest because the plastic is cracked under the part your arm rests on and u can feel it - the rear cup holder and trim panel as there both broken - a rear cargo shade if we can find one - the a/c switch and a resistor for the blower motor. there is also a sunroof issue witch im not sure if its gonna be fixed. the sunroof wont open at all it tries to move but one side comes down before the other side then it jams it also will not tilt up not sure if its supposed to though as ive never seen it work.

would you know where the resistor is located on the forester? i know on my old bmw its inside the duct work and is a pain to get to is it like that on the forester as well or is it a bit easier to get too? were planning a trip to a junk yard to get some random panels and stuff that ither missing or broken for the car and if its easy enough i might pull the resistor as well.

no one has any ideas?

i can tell you i tried that stuff in a 1987 bmw 528e that had failed emissions and it had failed again even using the stuff u mentioned however the numbers did go down a bit. i cannot remember how much exactly as i have not had to smog that car in 6 years now as it has reached the 25 year mark.

a friend of mine bought a 2002 forester and i noticed the a/c is on no matter what setting the hvac is set to if the blower is on the a/c compressor is spinning even if u turn the dial to heat. why is this happening? also the blower motor only works on speeds 1 2 and 4 speed 3 is not working resistor pack maby?

ship in a car from the uk. they have engines over there capable of 80+mpg that are not allowed to be sold in the usa. now are you ready for the part thats gonna piss you off? we build these engine here in the usa and ship them over there but are not allowed to use them here.

because it doesn't do the same thing its for parking it only turns on the 4 outer parking lights. not the dash lights.

crawl in the back and take the panel off look and see whats happening. its not easy to do with the door shut but its definitely possible.

i have a much worst leak on mine with mine im not sure where it comes from ither. i wouldn't use 15 40 mine did not like when i used the 15w40 alone in it 10w40 is as high as id go. just check on the level every so often it will be fine.

this. mines much worst than what u have and is still holding things together just keep an eye on it.

i never heard of using a caulking gun to do brakes. ive used c clamps and have been known to just push them in by hand on a few cars ive done.

mine is up there around 150 ftlbs on it ever since it came off one night driving home. im pretty sure its not going anywhere again. is been a year since i cranked mine on.

does it sound like a ratcheting sound gets worst as u speed up does not matter if clutch is in or out only makes the sound while moving? would be interesting to learn this one i have a friend whos car is doing the same thing and he has been driving it like that for months.

i might be one of those crazy people that would wire an amp wire without a fuse. i know the dangers of doing so but i also cannot seem to put a large enough fuse in there without it blowing out after 2 or 3 songs. after replacing so many fuses i just gave up with fuses.

im pretty sure mine runs with that sensor unplugged. i learned this unplugging things one day trying to find out if it would run better with somtihng unplugged when i was having running issues.

i have but it was not as bad as you are describing. i used a combination of a come along a tow strap and a hydraulic wedge. we strapped the front of the car to a tree and used the come along to pull on the back of the car form another tree. sledge hammers pry bars and such. we got it close i never took any before pictures but there was a gap on the drivers side where the rear hatch would not close it was about a 2 inch gap.the tail light would not bolt on ither. the whole drivers rear fender was pushed in about 6 to 8 inches. this is what we got it to after a few hours.

did you change the wires too or only the coil and plugs?

it turned out to be bad information i had thought cylinder 3 was the front right one turns out its actually the rear left side. the cylinder had no spark unfortunately i did not figure this out until i had already taken the whole engine apart and verified timing. put another coil on it and all is fine now.