sirtokesalot

well i just got back. took the car down to work this morning and used the torque wrench there i tightened it to 150 ft pound its not going anywhere anymore.

dident get any pics. was driving and noticed the battery and brake light come on i thought that the alternator died and figured id turn off the lights and radio and see how far i could get before the battery died i felt like i could get home. about a mile or so later the check engine light began flashing and i lost power steering. at that point i figured i threw the belt and pulled over figuring id pull my old belt out the trunk put it on and be going however when i opened the hood i found both the alternator belt and a/c belt was still there with the main center pulley that drives them hanging there by the belts with the bolt still in it. i got the bolt back on and drove it home now im wondering how tight should that bolt be? what we did to get it back on was use a screw driver through the inspection plate to hold the motor still while tightening the bolt with a ratchet and extension bar. it is a 95 legacy l wagon with the 2.2 the key way dident look perfect but it did still grab the pulley and hold it locked there.

the way we change these at work is through the inner fender. turn the wheel all he way to the left then u can go to the passenger wheel and pop out the push clips holding it in place. once u have the clips out u can pull the plastic inner fender back enough to stick your arm in there and get to the bulb. its a tricky thing to do because you cant see what your doing at the same time as your arm is in there. there should be a cap that twists tot he left to take off once it stops turning u pull it out. then i believe it is a clip style bulb so there will most likely be a wire clip over the bulb holding it on.unplug the wires from the bulb before undoing the clip. one side of the clip sticks up and out a bit u push it back and either down or up then let it come back out and release the bulb reverse to install.

ither the bulb is bad or someone did like i did and removed the bulb because the abs was not working and was tired of looking at it. that would be my guess.

can the factory headlight housings handle 100 watt low and 140 watt high?

did you check the fuse? most cars have separate fuses for each bulb so if one blows the other will remain on and not leave you without headlights at all. on my friends outback he had to replace the headlight housing due to a small crash and when we installed the new one the high beam was out on the drivers side it turned out to be a blown fuse in the fuse box located in the engine compartment.

from my exp on junk in the coolant its usually some kind of stop leak. did the previous owner put a stop leak in the car at some point?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-LEGACY-BG-BD-PROJECTOR-HEADLIGHTS-JDM-HEAD-LIGHTS-/151606201240?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item234c6f0b98&vxp=mtr like said they can be got on ebay there just pricey.

ebay jdm subaru legacy projector apparently japan had projectors.

i wont go the hid route without projectors. i did that once on the bmw and hated the way the light came out of the stock halogen housing. my car is also a legacy l wagon witch did not have fogs from the factory i also installed them myself but i wired them like stock fog lights should be and used a subaru fog light switch. so the fogs only come on with the low beams. ive been thinking about rewiring them to be on anytime the headlights are on.

oh yes you can ive been running my bmw with an external hg leak for about a year and a half now thogh it is slowly getting worst. a good friend of mine has a 2002 obw and his hg has been leaking externally since he bought it 2 years ago. my mom has i tihnk it was an 04 or 05 obw same deal leaking oil form hg externally its been like that for at least 3 years.

what i mean is the rattle is still coming from the rear hatch even without the panels attached. ive banged on the hatch with my palm and can hear a metallic reverberation/rattle sound that comes from what seems like the flat exterior metal on the hatch its self i have all 4 screws in my license plate and can confirm the plate its self is not the rattle.

so i pulled the rear panel off and believe most of my rattle is the rear hatch its self. what can i do to make the hatch not rattle so much?

do you hear the fuel pump when you turn the key?

interesting. i did this mod to the bmw years ago and never had issues. the mod required re-grounding a relay inside the fuse box to a ground that did not switch off with the high beams on. it never burned out the bulbs in the year and a half i had it that way before i did the hid swap and yes i did use projectors.

how can i make the low beams and fogs stay on when the high beams are switched on? i have a 95 legacy l wagon

did just this on my bmw. a jeep backed into it in a gas station parking lot it was all caught on the gas station cameras. instance gave me 650 for the damage i bought a used fender already painted the same color as my car for 50 bucks and installed it myself pocketed the other 600.

if i had to have the car i would strap it to something on the drivers side down low and try a come along to pull the right side up high and attempt to bend it back then plexiglass the windows get a cheapo windshield and glue the hell out of it to get it in there and drive. ive seen worst cars driving around before. glad you were ok.

all done took 2 and a half hours.

i wound up buying a pan today it needs it as soon as possible but unfortunately i cannot find a place to work on it now that i have everything i need. my uncle seems to believe that there's no way to do the job without removing the engine but from things ive read here im pretty sure i just have to raise the engine a few inches. my other uncle doesn't want any new cars at his garage now he said there been too many cars there the past week and they have all been problem after problem to work on so he don't want to have it right now. my next option is tomorrow after work im going to have to drive up to a friends house and help him clean out his garage so he can help me get the job done.

so taxes came in and my patch just barly got me here. im getting ready to go buy the new pan do i need to buy a gasket or will atv silicone work fine? also is there anytihng i should need to know to make the job easier?

its auto. i have to leave for work in a little over an hour so im a bit stuck driving it. as long as it can get me to work then the parts store after ill be ok. im going to get the axle tonite.

so on my ride home today i began to notice at 50mph if i let off the gas i would hear a clicking sound from the rear right. after a bit more driving it began to make the sound when turning left as well. a few miles after that when i would let off the gas the clicking was also accompanied by a binding feeling that seemed to go along with the click sound. is this my rear passenger axle failing? will the car be able to make it 7 miles to work and then another 15 miles to the parts store with another 10 miles back home? i do know that the rear passenger axle boot is torn and has been since i bought the car i put grease in it within the first week trying to preserve it

it does not. i have tried to push and hold it ive tried twisting it while holding it in it just never gets hot unless its in a different cars lighter slot. ill grabe a few of them next time in at the junk yard

ive delt with this in other cars but not a subaru yet. have someone spray the car with a hose while you sit inside and watch where the water comes from.