sirtokesalot

i wound up buying a pan today it needs it as soon as possible but unfortunately i cannot find a place to work on it now that i have everything i need. my uncle seems to believe that there's no way to do the job without removing the engine but from things ive read here im pretty sure i just have to raise the engine a few inches. my other uncle doesn't want any new cars at his garage now he said there been too many cars there the past week and they have all been problem after problem to work on so he don't want to have it right now. my next option is tomorrow after work im going to have to drive up to a friends house and help him clean out his garage so he can help me get the job done.

so taxes came in and my patch just barly got me here. im getting ready to go buy the new pan do i need to buy a gasket or will atv silicone work fine? also is there anytihng i should need to know to make the job easier?

its auto. i have to leave for work in a little over an hour so im a bit stuck driving it. as long as it can get me to work then the parts store after ill be ok. im going to get the axle tonite.

so on my ride home today i began to notice at 50mph if i let off the gas i would hear a clicking sound from the rear right. after a bit more driving it began to make the sound when turning left as well. a few miles after that when i would let off the gas the clicking was also accompanied by a binding feeling that seemed to go along with the click sound. is this my rear passenger axle failing? will the car be able to make it 7 miles to work and then another 15 miles to the parts store with another 10 miles back home? i do know that the rear passenger axle boot is torn and has been since i bought the car i put grease in it within the first week trying to preserve it

it does not. i have tried to push and hold it ive tried twisting it while holding it in it just never gets hot unless its in a different cars lighter slot. ill grabe a few of them next time in at the junk yard

ive delt with this in other cars but not a subaru yet. have someone spray the car with a hose while you sit inside and watch where the water comes from.

maby i worded it wrong. no lighter works in my cars socket just the phone chargers seem to work in it. when i look into the socket it looks to be in good shape there's no rust or corrosion in there.

the lighter in my car does not work in my car. it works in other peoples cars but not in mine. the socket its self does work i have been using it to charge my cell phone but it will not work if im using the lighter. i have tried using other peoples lighters from their cars witch also work in their cars but do not in mine. what gives whats wrong with my lighter?

if you take the rotors off you can get to the other side of the sensor without removing them.

i know there's one on each front wheel and im pretty sure i saw them on the rear as well while i had the rotors off.

clean the sensors check the tone rings. my plan was to just use a hack saw at the yard to cut it off the car there the plan was to cut inside the valleys. if need be i could probly have someone weld it back together once its on the car but it sounds like i wont need to do this and it should just work fine.

so the tone ring on my car is rusted away on the fr side. will the abs system notice if there is 2 cuts in the tone ring the cuts would be in the lower parts of the grooves. i understand that i cant remove the ring without removing the hub so i was tihnking that maby i could cut a ring off from a junk yard car one cut on each side then remove the bolts holding it there do the same for the one on my car then bolt the 2 halfs of the new one on. would the sensor notice the 2 cuts?

i normally don't warm the car i have a habit of just getting in and going i cant afford to let the car run for 10 or 15 min to warm up that's a few miles i could have driven. i don't drive the highway often i tend to stay on back roads with speed limits of 50 usually everyone is doing 55 the rest of my driving is at around 30 to 40 mph driving to work and home with 6 stop lights on the way. i have new plugs and coil still using the wires that were on the car no vacuum leaks found. it has the auto transmission and 194,198 miles currently.

how many miles per gallon should i be getting in my 95 subaru legacy wagon? from what ive averaged out the car is currently getting 20.85 miles to the gallon is this normal? just seems to me like it should be better.

i think some of the rattle is coming from the roof support beams. how bad would it be to use some spray foam between the roof and support beams so they cannot make contact?

honestly now that im really looking at it it looks and feels more like coolant than oil im going to clean that area and drive it and see where its coming from

well i drove it around for about 15 minutes without issues. it was idling for about 10 min before i left with it. it seems like its running fine now i tihnk the oil inside the spark plug hole was the cause of my misfire.

ok well i cleaned the oil out of there and put the plug back cars running now warming up. it missed for a moment when i first started it but im guessing that was from the little bit of oil that got in the cylinder because it cleared right up. once it warms up im going to take it for a drive to see if the problem is fixed and if it is than i need to figure out how the oil is getting in there.

WOW its freekin cold out there. a quick look i pulled the spark plug boot and looked in with a flashlight. #1 spark plug is half way under oil. can this cause my misfire?

they are ngk platinum alloy plugs its what the parts store gave me for the car. the wires are the wires that were on the car when i bought it. the coil is a diamond coil that came from a junk yard car witch looked like it has the coil and wires replaced recently i should have grabbed the wires too. its been cold outside i haven't gone back out to the car since last night its still 9 degrees outside now. when i replaced the coil last time there was oil in the #1 spark plug hole could this oil be what is causing my misfire? it looked like it was running down the top of the block and into cylinder 1's spark plug hole. the oil was not pooled very high in the hole but it was there i cleaned it out when i changed the coil it could have pooled back in there again in this time now.

my 1995 legacy wagon has begun to misfire again this time it happens after the car has warmed up once its warm it starts missing when idling and will misfire while driving until i get some speed up then will stop missing until i slow down again or drive to easy for too long. i keep a code reader in the car 2 times today the check engine light began flashing and as soon as it would stop flashing and go solid i would scan it and get p0301 each time cylinder 1 misfire. i have new plugs on the car and i replaced the coil recently with another used coil. what do you think my issue is? witch cylinder is # 1?

the rear wiper does not wipe correctly it skips on the glass going one way and wipes normal the other way but misses the top 2 inches ive tried 2 different wipers and tried to bend the wiper arm a little inward no change whats my issue?

so in the end the jb weld did stop where it was leaking from but it has begun leaking in other spots an oil pan will be in the future but the jb weld will get me by for a little while it leaks a lot less than it was.

is there any way to get the panels to stop rattling short of removing them? i have 2 subs in the back and the panel rattle is crazy u can hear them rattle over the music.

gas can still flow if that o-ring fails gas was still flowing with my moms subaru however it couldn't build enough fuel pressure to run due tot he o-ring in the pump releasing most of the pressure back into the tank.