davidschaffer

If I had a garage I might take it on. In my sandy driveway I am going to steer clear of any transmission work. I Hope to have a pole building up this fall. Do you think the car is worth $800? That is if it checks out being nearly rust free and well maintained. If I spend a grand on the clutch and other minor fixes I would be in for $1800 for a 95 with 218000miles. That seems high but if it really is rust free, that is a luxury here in Michigan. Plus I have a lower Mile engine ready to go when need be. Thoughts?

If I had a garage I might take it on. In my sandy driveway I am going to steer clear of any transmission work. Hope long to have a pole building up this fall. Do you think the car is worth $800? That is if it checks out being nearly rust free and well maintained. If I spend a grand on the clutch and other minor fixes I would be in for $1800 for a 95 with 218000miles. That seems high but if it really is rust free, that is a luxury here in Michigan. Plus I have a lower Mile engine ready to go when need be. Thoughts?

I'm going to look at the wagon on Saturday. The details so far are that it runs good but the manual transmission no longer goes into gear. It was sudden. It will go into each slot but no shifting takes places, just stays in neutral. Would this be the clutch? It has 218,000 miles and supposedly no rust. The seller is askimg $800. Was owned by a church to run kids around on the summers only. Timing belt supposedly changed at 200,000. It would cost me about $1000 to have the clutch done at a local shop or they would swap motors for $900 plus parts. Any thoughts?

I'm going to look at the wagon on Saturday. The details so far are that it runs good but the manual transmission no longer goes into gear. It was sudden. It will go into each slot but no shifting takes places, just stays in neutral. Would this be the clutch? It has 218,000 miles and supposedly no rust. The seller is askimg $800. Was owned by a church to run kids around on the summers only. Timing belt supposedly changed at 200,000. It would cost me about $1000 to have the clutch done at a local shop or they would swap motors for $900 plus parts. Any thoughts?

I found a rust free 95 Legacy Wagon. Any chance this would work?

Thank you for the detailed reply. Let's hope I can find a good donor car for a simple plug and play. Either that or get over the fact of having a decent motor and look for something already set to go.

Excellent! Thanks! Would it be difficult to put it in a newer model? I'm fine with either outbacks or foresters.

I have a 99 outback with a EJ22. From what I was told, the engine came from a 98 Impreza. The car is falling apart but the engine, with around 100,000, seems to be running quite well. A local shop will do a typical engine swap for $600. I would like to buy the nicest Outback I can find with a blown motor and have them put the 22 into it. What years am I limited to? Thanks

Not hubs, rotors. Sorry about that. I'm planing on spraying down what I can with pb blaster each day for a few weeks before I do the work. Michigan rust is the worst!

Sorry for the delayed report. I can't seem to get notifications from this thread. The leak was the lines going through the body above the gas tank. I had a local Subaru guy flare in new lines up to the rubber hoses. He could not get the air out of the lines as the front passenger bleeder broke off. Apparently I need new hubs, calipers and pads all around. I'm pretty the back breaks aren't working at all. He wanted close to a grand for the work but I'm going to do it myself for around $500 in parts. Thanks for the help. I trued to post pics to help the next guy but it says the file is to big.

Thanks for the replies! I would have responded sooner but did not get any notice that people had replied. 99 outback. The front rotors are pretty worn. I have not had time to do anything but pump the breaks and look for leaks. Hopefully I'll get some time soon to pull the wheels and see if it is as some of you suggested. I'll let you know what I find. Thanks again

Hey all. The other day the break light came on but because there was no signs of any issues I ignored it. That was a mistake. On my way to work yesterday the breaks started to feel soft. When I pulled into my spot at work I have no breaks at all and rolled into the snowbank. Looked under the hood and no fluid in the resivour. I later filled it up and cautiously drove home. The breaks are spongy and I need to pump a bit for them to work solid. I can not find a leak anywhere and the fluid level has remained the same. What's going on?

My 99 outback with a 2.2 from a 98 Impreza probably needs a new trans. It does the delayed shift into drive. When I use trans x, it works for about a month then back to delayed shift. Can the tranny be rebuilt or is it more cost effective to swap in a new one? Also, what trans can I put in? I don't want another one with delayed shifting problems. Thanks

Hey. Did you get the pm I sent the other day? I might be interested in the neck and valve. Where are you located?also, does anybody know what size of hose I will need? Thanks

Thanks for the reply. I installed a new alternator and all is well. For now

I just ordered the filler neck. Will I need the shut off also? And what size hoses do I need to pick up? Thanks

Any thoughts on a bad alternator causing these problems? I drove the car this morning with no problems. My wife just took it to the store and when she got back into the car after shoping, it took about 40 turns before the car would start. When it did, the alarm went off. She tried driving it one with the alarm going off but the alarm bogged down and the car shut off. After a few minutes, she was able to start it and drive back home. What the heck is going on? Thanks

New realization! The alarm went off because the car started in the 10th try so it thought we were trying to reset the alarm. That doesn't explain the no starts and random electrical gremlins ( radio surging on/off, window Moyer running noise ). Any help is appreciated.

In the past, the positive battery terminal suddenly became very corroded so replaced the connector. Now I am noticing the begining of corrosion on it again. I understand this can be caused by the alternator overcharging the system. Is this a possible cause for all of these issues ( no start, random lights coming on, alarm going off )? Thanks

My wife reports that the car has been acting very strange latley. I recently replaced the starter which solved the no start issue we were having. Every thing was good for a week or so and then sometimes it would take a few turns of the key before the car would start. Recently random lights would come on and go off for no reason. Today, my wife could not start the car without the alarm going off. She finally did get it to start without the alarm and now that its home ito won't show me any symptoms. This must be something with the wiring right? Where should I start. The car is a 99 outback with 98 Impreza 2.2. Automatic. Thanks

What size socket will I be needing? I am going to make the swap on Saturday morning. Extension, no extension? Deep or standard ect. Any more tips for a quick swap are appreciated. Thanks

I was going to connect to the solenoid which draws much less amps. Before I did this though, I tried jumping from the battery and it did not work, just the same click. This means I do infact need to replace the starter.

Thanks for the help. I'm going to try adding a direct line from the battery to the starter with a relay in between. I've read of good success with this. If it doesn't work, I'll swap out the starter.

Thanks for the advice. Could I just replace the solenoid? I guess I'll call the local parts store and see if they carry just the solenoid. Thanks again

I've got a 99 Outback with a 98 impreza 2.2. It takes anywhere from 5 to 20 turns of the key to get it to start. I do get power to the starter when the key is turned and with the key held in place, the starter will crank with a few taps of a hammer. Before I buy a new starter I just wanted to be sure that I have accuratley diagnosed it. Thanks