RickOregon

Hey Jeff, Thanks a bunch for delivering the transmission from XSNRG's to our son in Portland. He said that went great. Wish you would have accepted the money for gas, but you didn't. So I still owe you! Or maybe I can help another person on the board sometime. Justin plans to bring it over here to Burns next Wednesday. Then I guess I'll drive out to Grand Forks and do the install. Turns out that's about the most cost effective way to handle this. I can drive all the way there and back for the cost of the shipping one way. Amazing... Anyone on the route from Burns, Oregon to Grand Forks, ND who would like to come along and share driving, some BS, and maybe a little wrench turning? Here's the linke to the route I'll most likely take: http://www.mapquest.com/directions/main.adp?go=1&do=nw&rmm=1&un=m&cl=EN&ct=NA&rsres=1&1ahXX=&1y=US&1a=&1c=Burns&1s=OR&1z=&2ahXX=&2y=US&2a=&2c=Grand+Forks&2s=ND&2z= Later, Rick

Yes, if there's something in the oil passages that could harm the engine, I'd say that would be true - worse to knock that stuff loose. But if the deposit is something that will dissolve with a solvent or diesel, and the oil passages are cleaner as a result, they'll be able to allow the flow of oil to where it's needed, and that's a plus. The reason I asked about diesel is that the maintenance manuals for our D-7 Cats recommend flushing the engine and transmission with diesel before adding new oil/gear oil - to remove deposits. Must do a pretty good job if it cleans out all the grunge in an old Caterpillar. I've followed this technique, and even though it takes a lot of diesel [transmission hold around 15 - 20 gallons!], it seems to flush out the systems pretty well. I've never used Sea Foam, but I've used Marvel Mystery Oil [MMO] on a few occasions. Old timers recommend it in the older airplane engines, and I've added it to the crankcase of our Cessna every now and then. Haven't yet tried adding diesel to the airplane oil though... LOL -Rick

And a couple shots of PB Blaster penetrant from NAPA or other automotive stores waiting 10 minutes or so between applications will make the nut/bolt removal go a *lot* easier - that's my experience, anyway... -Rick

That's what I was thinking, too. Are there any surefire methods to treat the engine that will unclog the oil passages? Short of removing the engine and blowing them out? Does a flush with diesel do any good? Any other cleaners/treatments you're aware of? -Rick

Hey Flowmastered87GL, 320K on bushings is not bad. Not bad at all. I notice that autopartsgiant.com has TRW control arm bushings for $10 a side, but I don't know anything about these. Price seems good, though. Rick

Man, I'm sure glad I don't live in the big city... you can't go into your junk yards now? That really sucks. Out here in Burns, life is still pretty good. You might even call it a life of luxury. Hey, at our local yard, not only can you still go back and "touch the cars", but the owner drives you around from car to car in his beater-of-the-day. Your own private chauffeur... Now that's living! 8-) -Rick

Hey Pyro, we just use the magnetic mount heaters that you can place on the side of your oil pan - or both sides, if you're in a hurry. Son out in ND found that worked well at temps as low as -30 F in Grand Forks. Also easy to replace or check operation, as they're exterior. And you can switch them around to other vehicles, tractors, etc., if you need to. Just a thought. Don't know if you call these "ultimate", but they're inexpensive and versatile.. Rick

What hose are you referring to?

Boy, I'm glad I found this post! Great ideas and lots of different approaches to getting a tranny in and out. I've got all kinds of options! This is great. Thanks for all these techniques in one post.. I'm just getting ready to help our son replace his tranny out in North Dakota, so if I end up going out there from Oregon and doing the job, this information will help a lot. Much obliged, -Rick

Sounds good, Jeff. I'm thinking I'll probably have the tranny here by next weekend, if Justin comes over with a load of his stuff, that is.. Then, I need to get a new clutch kit and figure out best way to get the parts out to Grand Forks, ND so either I or MilesFox or someone else can do the install. MilesFox, I sent you email regarding the install --- surely appreciate your offer to help, if you can. Date may slip to early July or late August, though, as Brett is coming home for a month in mid July. If that won't work for you, then I'll need to figure something else out. Do any of you know of someone who might be headed east from Washington, Oregon, Idaho, Montana, or Northern California and passing through North Dakota in the not-too-distant future? Maybe I could get them to take a Subaru transmission and clutch kit with them... no, that would be just too much luck.. 8-) A super great group here. -Rick

Hey LPGSuperChargedBrumby -- You and vanagonfan probably know the answers to your question by now, but I thought I'd offer some additional input for what it's worth. If part numbers are any indication, the clutch sets at ThePartsBin.com for a N/A ea82 and a ea82turbo are exactly the same. Which would seem to confirm what MilesFox and calebz say regarding clutch disc interchange. I've just started looking for a clutch kit to install when we replace the 5sp tranny in our son's '87 4x4 5sp 1.8L GL-10 turbo wagon [with 4x4 engage pushbutton on the shift lever] and found two clutch sets at ThePartsBin.com: $166.83 for Japan/OEM or $148.38 for Japan/Paruaut Here's ThePartsBin link to the clutch kit page for the '87 turbo wagon: http://oem.thepartsbin.com/parts/thepartsbin/wizard.jsp?year=1987&make=SU&model=LOY-4WDT-001&category=All&part=Clutch+Kit And here's link to clutch kit for our '86 carbed 4x4 5sp 1.8L GL wagon: http://oem.thepartsbin.com/parts/thepartsbin/wizard.jsp?year=1986&make=SU&model=LOY-4WD-001&category=All&part=Clutch+Kit Note the part numbers, pictures, and prices are all the same. I also found that the clutch kit part numbers are the same for both these cars at Autozone.com. I'm concluding the release bearings, pressure plates, and discs are the same for both cars. But then maybe I'm getting a bit senile these days... 8-) Josh [ballitch], you might be able to find an answer using a similar "separate model part search" approach at your favorite online source... just a thought. Later, Rick PS: Have any of you purchased a clutch kit from either ThePartsBin.com or Autozone.com? How are they? Pretty good? Do they include the pilot bearing? Release bearing clips? I looked at AutopartsGiant, which often has lowest parts prices, but couldn't make head nor tails of their clutch kit listings - confusing... to me, anyway.

Hey XSNRG - did you get my payment? Jeffroid - have you communicated with Justin and Mark, yet, regarding picking up and dropping off transmission? I asked Brett to check the records of previous owner to see when the clutch was last replaced. If we can't find a recent clutch job, I'll order a new clutch, as well. I did a lot of work on his GL-10 when it was out here in Oregon, but not a clutch job. Good time to get that in, I suppose - while the tranny is out.

Welcome to the USMB. So, it sounds like a crudded up fuel injection system. Glad you found it. The symptoms appeared much like a plugged muffler to me - pieces of broken catalyst material stuck somewhere in the tailpipe/muffler. But that doesn't appear to be the case. You learned a lot in the process, so all that work you did was worthwhile. Good deal. Rick

Hey MilesFox, thanks for the offer. I've sent you email. I'm currently working to get ahold of Mark to pay for the transmission he's offered to sell us. Your help in getting that part or another one installed would be appreciated. I'll send you an email to discuss details. Much obliged, Rick

A wise man once told me: "A person who has never made a mistake has never done anything." Glad you got it solved. My mistake was bolting the engine onto my engine stand with the clutch still installed and the engine stand bolts a bit too short for that arrangement. Pressed against the clutch cover plate and bent a few fingers.... ooops! That's how I discovered clutch would still operate, though with a less-than-ideal engaging. I'm pretty careful when I put an engine on the stand these days... guess even an old dog can still learn.

Jeffroid: Hey thanks! See your email. Rick Humble Nuto 53: Thanks for the information. We'll consider that an option, as well. Much obliged.

Agree. And if some fingers are not too much different than the others it should still work. I installed one in an 86 Subaru GL, and a couple were slightly off from the rest, even after using the alignment tool and torquing properly as Steveman09 reminds us. Only noticeable difference is that I can hear a slight sound when I slightly engage the clutch - a sign of unequal pressure until fully engaged. I don't think it will accelerate the wear much, and the sound is hardly noticeable. Just fyi... Rick

Anyone have any other ideas for 5-speed 4x4 [push button] transmission in or around Grand Forks, ND or Burns, OR? Brett's coming home in mid July on the train, so if the JB weld fix doesn't solve the problem, it would be nice to send a good used transmission back on the train with him. Any insights/help would be greatly appreciated.

XSNRG, How about shipping it to Burns or to Grand Forks? Any possibility of that? Is it too heavy/bulky to send via UPS? Got the following email from our son, Brett, this morning... fyi: "Anyhow, I read the Suburu posts and was really surprised how many people out there offer suggestions. Sounds like a good deal on the Tranmission for sale. I'd be more than happy to pay for it. I'll try the JB weld idea as soon as I feel the crack has dried up little. Another possibility, if you didn't want to drive over here and an airline wouldn't allow a transmission on board is the J-man. He said if he has some time off work he might be willing to come over so perhaps he and I could put the tranmission in. Of course, I can still check junk yards around the Grand forks area for transmissions also. Brett" "J-man", as Brett calls him, is our youngest son, Jeromy. He works for the BLM during the summer fighting fires, and, of course, drives a Subaru... a 2002 turbo WRX. Nice car. I'm jealous, except when I try to show him some off road area where we've elk hunted in the past, and his fancy car is so low to the ground he has to walk ahead and clear stones! That's when I'm glad I've got the clearance in our GL wagon.... 8-)

Good deal. Any chance of somehow getting it relayed to Portland, where we have a couple kids, either of which could bring it to us over here in Burns? Know anyone going down that way in the not-too-distant future? Do you accept payment via paypal.com? If so, email me your payment email address. Yes, it's looking more and more like I'll be the "Have Tools Will Travel" Dad once again... 8-) Thanks, Rick

Oh, and if you decide you'd rather sell your car than get it fixed, let me know how much you want. I could always use another project. Especially if it's working on an old Subaru! 8-) Take care and good luck, Rick

Yes, sounds like broken timing belt could be the problem. If distributor is turning then at least one of the belts is not broken. If that's the case, and the other belt is broken, I think you won't see any movement on your oil pressure gauge while cranking the engine, as that belt drives the oil pump. Maybe I'm wrong here, though, in my recollection. [As I've gotten older, I seem to recall less and less!] calebz, Skip, moosens, Turbone, and others know this for sure. Search this forum, as this problem has been discussed and diagnosed many times before - lots of good insights on troubleshooting the timing belts and replacing them. If you determine the timing belts are intact, be sure to check the coil and the coil wire. If you aren't getting voltage to the distributor, you won't be able to distribute that voltage to the plugs! 8-) And I seem to recall that a loose starter or alternator connection can cause a similar symptom... or if either of these connections is shorting to ground. Just some additional ideas to think about. I'm starting to ramble again... sorry about that. 8-) Rick

XSNRG: Let me know how much you want for the tranny, when you have a moment. I'm fairly confident I can do the job, myself, once I get my tools, parts, and workspace arranged. I have lots of tools and equipment here in Burns at the ranch to repair cars - I'm a hobby mechanic, now that I'm retired and have the time. But your idea about driving back to ND and doing the work seems tempting, too. I could drive our other Sube out, and it would get a lot better fuel mileage than my big GMC pickup pulling a trailer with a car loaded on top. Or I could borrow one of Kate's Geo Metros that get even better mpg - between 50 and 60, because a sube tranny and all my tools wouldn't weigh much more than a few hundred pounds. And, best of all, I could spend some time with our son. I haven't been back to Grand Forks to visit him, so that would be fun. I don't relish the long drive out and back, though. Do you think the airlines would allow me to take my tools on board, if I decided to fly out there? Anyone have any recent experience, post-9/11, with transporting their tools on a flight? I suppose the tranny would be too heavy to put in checked luggage, though, so I'd have to pay overweight charges, if they'd even let me bring it along... Doesn't the tranny weigh around 100 lbs or so? Good ideas. Thanks for your insights and offer. 1985GLWAGON: Thanks for the warning. Most mechanics are good folks just trying to earn a living like the rest of us. But some mechanics and some shops are bad news - dishonest and/or incompetent. Fortunately, I've encountered more of the former than the latter. I'm hoping our son, Brett, will visit this thread and read some of the posts, so he can see how much support there is out in the Subaru community. BTW, do you remember if there were any wrecking yards in Grand Forks? And, if so, do you recall their reputation?

All good advice here. I've followed these approaches, and they've worked. New twin row radiator, if it'll fit in your car sounds like a good idea. One thing I did, because I didn't like the temp switch delaying until water got hot, was to install a manual switch, so I could turn on the electric fan whenever I wanted. On our '86 Suburu GL wagon, EA82 N/A engine, we have two fans. One is driven by a belt connected to crank pulley and other engine accessories. The other is electric and sits behind the A/C condenser. That electric fan comes on whenever A/C is operating or when the coolant temp reaches a preset limit. I like to turn on the electric fan and just leave it on whenever my temp gauge shows more than half way up. I know the temperature switch should be sufficient, but somehow I like to be able to control it myself, if needed. I got the switch, believe it or not, from a '73 VW van. It's green colored, and was used to control the rear window defroster. I installed it in the little storage space just to the left of the steering column oriented so I could turn on the fan by reaching down and pulling the knob out to the left. Works great. Just my 2 cents worth... Good luck bringing that engine temperature down. Rick

Hondasucks: Hey Andrew, thanks for the the feedback. Brett is going to UND in Grand Forks, ND. What year turbowagon did that push button 5-speed come out of? Where's it located in Oregon, is it in good condition, and how much do you want for it? I see you're in Laramie right now. We have a friend of the family going to school there, studying to become an automotive mechanic. Do you know Ben Nichols from Diamond, southeast of Burns, by any chance? If you run into him, tell him Hi from Rick Johnson. As for the crack in the case - at first Brett thought the leak was coming from the seam where the case halves join, but then he said he saw a "crack". I'll ask him to try JB weld. Sometimes that stuff has worked for me, sometimes not. I guess in this situation there won't be alot of pressure, since it's just holding gear oil. So that might allow him to get enough oil in there to use the car around town until he can get it repaired. Good idea. I'll see if I can get Brett to visit this Board and this post, himself, and offer some of his own thoughts. Appreciate your reply. Numbchux: Matt, if any of your friends work on Subaru's, Brett is a quick learner and would be willing to pay and assist to get a used tranny installed in his car. He just needs the proper work place, tools, and guidance. He's got several weeks before he's done with Summer term, so he could work afternoons and weekends until the job's done. Thanks for checking with your friends. Maybe they know of some good wrecking yards in the area where the part could be found and possibly even installed. It used to be that some yards would pull a part and replace it with a used one for a modest fee. Let me know what you hear back. Thanks. All: I checked with my neighbor, and he's willing to loan me his car trailer [again], if I need to haul a replacement car out to ND and retrieve the '87 GL-10 turbowagon. That'll cost me for fuel, but at least Brett would have reliable transportation, and I'd have the GL-10 home in my garage where I could install a good used tranny myself. I've replaced just about everything on a Subaru, *except* for the tranny, so I'll be searching this forum for tips and tricks, if and when it comes to that. Should be fun. I love working on these cars now that I have the time, the tools, and the space. It's good to see this board is still as friendly and knowledgeable as it was several years ago, when I first joined it. That was before it moved to ultimatesubaru.org. I posted a lot of advice for people then, and got a lot of great advice, especially from the guru's. Thanks to the Skipper, particularly, who was a great source of encouragement when I first started working on Subaru's.