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montana tom

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Everything posted by montana tom

  1. Hey Fish; Was the in-laws car an impreza? Was the bolt oh 6-8" long ? What year is your outback ? Is it a legacy outback .. or impreza outback ?
  2. 3' breaker is plenty, remove rubber plug on flywheel (top pas side of engine) insert large screw driver or pry bar, wedge flywheel and pop crank bolt free. Same method makes sure you get it tight when replacing. Locktite is not necessary if you get the bolt tight to begin with. Three marks to keep aligned , the crank is easy ,one cam is under tension and one is not. When installing the belt start at the crank keeping tight go around tensioner and drivers side cam , keeping tight continue around to other cam , here is where I will allow the cam to be off time (towards the fender) a small amount as it will roll towards the crank as you finaly get the belt to slip on , its not hard but its also not easy... be calm it will fit. Do not worry about the lines on the belt do not try to line them up. Once you have the belt on and all your timing marks are good then you pull the pin on your tensioner allowing it to move... now put your ballenser(pulley) on and slowly rotate the engine clockwise around two times until all three timing marks are aligned. I should mention that the passenger side cam has no real mark to align with just straight up with a case seam directly above it is all you get on that side. If after turning over the motor ANY of the timing marks are not dead on then you do it all over... (can be frustrating ) Don't get excited just take your time and you will get it right. Afterwards you will never be afraid to open up the front again because you will be an expert. Very important is getting the ballenser bolt good and tight or the pulley will come loose and do terrible things to your crankshaft and radiator. I should mention that if you have to repeat this instalation then you will have to compress your tensioner and re install the pin , do this in a vise and do it slowly little turns and it will easily compress and you can place the pin thru all three holes and then remove from vise , your ready to try again . DO NOT FORCE THE TENSIONER,
  3. Hot wire your parking brake light,(down under the lever) or just apply the lever one click. When the parking brake light goes on the daytime running lights go off.
  4. You don't mention antifreeze, so i'll assume that we are talking water. Rotted floorboard or a punctured but covered floorboard if it gets wet while driving , windshield seal or body seam if it happens sitting still in the rain . Running a hose works if you can expose enough to see where it enters. Sounds like a big leak so with help you should be able to track it down.
  5. By the way, If you do change your lower hoses, when you have them all hooked up and tight..... Remove the upper radiator hose and pour your antifreeze directly into the engine ,by way of the upper hose. After you get the engine filled THEN hook the upper hose back on the radiator and pour the rest of your coolant in the radiator cap. If you don't do this you won't get enough water behind the thermostat to open and YOUR ENGINE WILL OVERHEAT !!! A sure way to need head gaskets.
  6. climbing; Yup subi,napa, any parts house will have it all. Try changing your rad cap... they can go bad.If that doesn't help then your water pump is another possibility, one you don't want. Usually a water pump leak shows up at the crack of the timing cover but it runs everywhere. Buy a can of brake clean... spray everything that looks wet , clean and dry it, then run your motor. If your lucky you will spot the new leak without going anyplace... if your not then drive it and keep looking. Worry about your heater core later its not the problem . If you don't find & fix the leak ...sooner or later you are going to overheat the motor and you will need head gaskets.
  7. Thanks for the reply's guys ; Modifying a head gasket seems easy enough but ...What is the difference in the heads that will cause a cel problem in a 2000 + ? Everything (intake ) would be swapped from that year car. A lit CEL wont bother me on a car that is sure to have 200,000 + miles on it... but i'm curious how heads alone would cause an issue.
  8. OMG !!! Disconnected the heater core !!! ...You won't see that around here... If your losing coolant you probably have a hose leaking . The previous owner probably used one old heater hose to connect back to the other pipe. That is the first place to look . Under the dash wont help if the core is disconnected. The small rubber hoses connecting to the intake manifold are another good place to check. If all else fails go to a local mechanic and ask him to put the pressure tester on and bring it up to pressure with the engine off, makes it much easier to spot small leaks that way. The engine must be cool enough to open the rad cap when you bring it to him. Or go to harbor freight and buy a cheap one and do it yourself !
  9. Hi all; First post, 30 year subi owner. I have a good short block 01-2.5 sohc. I could buy valves and repair the original heads... But since finding this forum I'm hearing about using 2.2 heads. Just so happens that I have 2 sets for sure and maybe another in the motor barn. All from the early 90's .I have read that they do not flow as well as later models, but slightly increase compression. Will they bolt on and work ? I'm not wanting a race car ...(well at least not this one ) Just wanting to put together an extra engine on the cheap ,in case one of ours decides to be a problem.
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