harborseal55

I have a 96 Legacy L sedan, AWD, and would like to lift/increase the ground clearance by an inch or so for a trip to Death Valley. I thought that there used to be some spring spacers that could be easily installed and removed without removal of the springs so that I could just leave it raised for this trip on dirt roads and remove them when I return home. I have made the same trip before in the same Legacy and scrape the undercarriage and catalyst a bit, and increasing the ground clearance by an inch or so would be a good improvement. Any ideas?

I travel all over, and was considering purchasing a set of Big O "Euro Tour" tires for my 96 Legacy (185/70R14). Anyone tried these tires? Seems that, as the years go by, fewer of the big tire companies are making tires in this old-fashioned size. Big O is in all of the towns that I spend time in (life is complicated), so it would be easy for me to get them serviced regularly (rotated and rebalanced). 70K mile warranty, and any road hazard warranties are covered completely for the first four years (no pro rating, just simple replacement).

The engine code system seems to have a little forgiveness in it, in that if the problem persists, it will need to be present sometimes for a few hundred miles to trigger the engine light to come on again. At least that has been my experience with my catalyst code that I've been wrestling with. If your light doesn't come back on after a few hundred miles of driving, then you are probably in the clear.

Yes, No. 3 in the diagram is the boot that protects the inner tie rod (one for left side and one for right side), and No. 2 in the diagram is the inner tie rod that has the "ball joint" where it connects to the steering rack. This ball joint is what is typically greased and where all of my noise is coming from. If it's noisy, is that already indication of inner tie rod failure because of the broken boot, or can the ball be regreased? If so, how would you regrease the ball, and with what type of grease? It's conspicuous that there appear to be no grease fittings for any part of the front end suspension - I've never had a car that didn't have fittings. Is periodic suspension greasing unneccessary on Subaru's for some reason?

I have had noise coming from my front end when turning the steering wheel to the right (same noise whether driving slowly or completely stopped, so I know that it's not axle noise). Upon inspection, I noticed that the right tie rod rubber boot (the long boot that covers the inner "ball" end of the tie rod) was completely torn in half, and guess that the boot needs to be replaced and that the likely source of noise seems to be the inner tie rod "ball" end that is now dry of lube. My question is, there seems to be nothing loose, so is it common to simply use my finger to grease this ball and replace the boot and not have to replace the tie rod ball end? There don't appear to be any grease fittings, so is it adequate to just add surface grease with your fingers?

Baling wire and throwing darts ideas: I don't know if Subaru's have this, but some previous cars (Oldsmobiles and Dodges from the 1970s) I've had that came equipped with air conditioning have a heater "by-pass" valve that I believe turns off or restricts the circulating coolant to the heater core when the A/C is turned on. These valves can leak, and also if your leak is after this valve (on the heater side of this valve, if Sube even uses these valves) you might possibly be able to reduce your leak by turning on the AC lightly.

I just replaced the timing belt on my 96 Legacy 2.2, and the crank pully appears to be just that - a stamped metal pully and not a harmonic balancer. I don't know how others do this, but I used a "chain wrench" to hold the pully upon loosening and reinstalling the pully because the retaining bolt needs to be really tight (I think it required a torque of something like 100 ft-lbs), and I don't see how one could achieve this without holding the pully with a chain wrench. The original bolt may have never been tightened enough. This is a large bolt that needs to be installed to a much higher torque than many cars. FYI - It seemed like it could be easy to damage the pully by just strapping the chain wrench on it by marking up the belt grooves, so I cut a piece of bicycle inner tube and wrapped it around the pully, and used a small 2-inch length of 3/4-inch dia. of copper tubing that I cut and pounded flat so that the chain wrench "teeth" would dig into the copper and rubber instead of the pully surface. Worked great, didn't slip at all, and left the pully unscathed.

An option I've found to replacing alternators has been to take them to an electrical shop that specializes in rebuilding starters and alternators, that way you can have YOUR unit rebuilt rather than getting an exchange unit. I've used a place in San Francisco called "Rite Way" for years who has been able to service anything I've brought in same day (Toyota alt, BMW motorcycle alternator, Moto Guzzi starter). With 185K, I was planning to bring my still-operating alternator to them for a "preventative" service, as often only the brushes wear out (wear too short to make contact) and they resurface the area where the brushes contact, along with checking everything else out. Typically less expensive than an exchange unit and better work.

I have had CEL code P0420 come up on my 96 Legacy 2.2L with 185K miles on it. I replaced both front and back O2 sensors with the proper Bosch replacements (all numbers matched), and the light comes on repeatedly after about 400 miles of driving. FYI - The threaded bung had torn out of the catalyst on the rear one and I had a muffler shop remove the catalyst and weld a new threaded bung onto it ($70 to remove the catalyst, weld, fit both new sensors, and replace on car - fair enough), and they said that there was no visually obvious damage to the catalyst. Since a replacment catalyst is nearly $700, available only from Subaru, I'd like to troubleshoot to ensure that the catalyst is the actual problem. Besides the catalyst itself, the two most likely culprets that could cause P0420 to show up appear to be (1) bad O2 sensors and (2) an exhaust system leak. I'd like some help in assessing the presence of any exhaust leaks in order to rule them out as a possible problem. What I have done so far is to get under the car when cold and warm and wave my hand around various areas of the exhaust system upstream of the catalyst to see if I feel any "puffs" indicating leaks, but felt none. Is there a better or more thorough way to check for leaks? Another suspicion is that there may be a leak that shows up between 55-70 mph, as there is a different sound during these speeds that sounds somewhat like an exhaust leak, but it doesn't make this sound at any other speeds. In addition, the P0420 has always come back on after driving within this speed range for a period of time Could there be a leak that only makes its appearance at certain speeds? What's the best method to check for exhaust leaks?

We have a current thread discussing this topic - look for "catalytic converter question" (it should be fairly high on the current list), and also some references to some other recent threads are listed at the bottom of this thread (scroll to the bottom after you open the question to look at the replies). Good luck and don't break an O2 thread like I did.

Someone in a previous thread (my original post asking what I could do regarding the threaded section having torn loose from the CC) suggested getting a threaded piece from a performance/speed shop that would likely have them for adapting fuel injection to engines and have someone weld this onto my catalyst. I still plan to follow that scheme as the permanent repair, as replacement CC appear to only be available from Subaru and are about $700 (or more if memory serves me right) just for the front CC (eek! I seem to remember a quote of around $1200 for both front and rear catalysts). I sure hope that that solves the problem. I'll be a bit p_ssed if the "Reduced Catalyst Efficiency" code is still triggered after clearing the codes.

Hoheiu, good idea, but installation of a HeliCoil isn't an option in this case because it's not that the threads were damaged, but that the entire thick metal section itself that contains the threads that was welded onto the sheet metal CC body tore off of the CC, weld and all, leaving a sheet metal hole. Using the National Pipe Thread (NPT) plug worked only because NPT threads are tapered so the plug gets larger as you screw it further into the hole, making it fit tighter. Interesting that you said that the front O2 sensor was more expensive. I also bought a new Bosch front O2 sensor from NAPA too, and it was less than the rear sensor (Front was about $100, and rear was about $150, different part numbers).

My sister-in-law is looking for a used (perhaps 1999-2003?) Subaru, probably a Legacy or OB wagon, and asked me for some advice on what to look for. I know that my 96 Legacy with a 2.2/5 spd is a fairly bulletproof combination, but know that more of the newer models have the 2.5, some years of which seem to have head gasket problems. Was the good old 2.2 still available in these newer models (in either 5spd or AT)? Since the 2.5 seems to be more common, are there model years where the 2.5 motors are improved and less likely to have the common head problems?

I had (have) the same condition (CEL indicating CC reduced efficiency) that I thought was most likely a rear O2 sensor problem. Bought a new sensor (Bosch O2 for rear was nearly $150 from my local NAPA auto parts), and unfortunately the threaded fitting in the CC that the sensor screws into snapped out of the CC upon my attempt to remove the old O2 sensor. Ugh! My 96 Legacy has 170K, and I currently have the gaping CC hole plugged with a 1/2-inch pipe thread plug, inserted by using a 1/2-inch NPT tap that was able to create enough threads in the CC hole to insert the plug. So this is just a note to beware that this is a possibility, and the permanent fix is not easy. This temporary plug fix was fairly easy, has been in place for a few weeks now, the car still runs as great as always, and my scanner doesn't indicate any new codes other than the original "reduced CC efficiency" code. I still plan to try a permanent repair in a few weeks, likely see if I can get a new threaded insert, remove the old CC, and see if someone will weld the threaded insert onto it so that I can reinsert the new rear O2 sensor.

Oh oh..I was in the process of changing the rear oxygen sensor in the catalytic converter on my 96 Legacy 2.2 (170K miles) and - eek! - the thick threaded steel section (the section that holds the female threads that the O2 sensor screws into) that is welded onto the sheet metal catalyst body tore out of the catalyst body! I had followed the instructions in the Haynes manual that recommended warming up the car to heat and expand the catalyst to facilitate easier removal of the O2 sensor, and I don't believe that it loosened at all, the entire O2 sensor/thread assemble just snapped out. Did I do this incorrectly or do O2 sensors often get frozen into the catalysts? Thank goodness I just passed California smog inspection last January. A new catalyst from Subaru is really expensive, so what are my options: (1) Buy a new catalyst from Subaru? (2) Would a welding or muffler shop be willing to weld the threaded insert back onto my old catalytic converter, or are shops unwilling to repair an old catalyst? (3) Is there a threaded insert that I can buy to fix this (if this seems to not be an unusual problem when replacing O2 sensors) (4) If there are no other options, where else can I go to get a replacement catalyst other then the dealer? So far I haven't found anyone who can even special order a replacement catalyst for me (one that uses two O2 sensors). Any other options? In the mean time, I plugged the hole in the catalyst by using a 1/2-inch national pipe thread (NPT) tap to apply a couple of threads in the catalyst and inserted a 1/2-inch pipe "plug," and unplugged the old (rear) O2 sensor from the harness and removed it completely. The car runs fine (as good as it did prior to my attempted fix), and the OBD-II scanner I have did not reveal any new codes as a result of the sensor removal (other than the previous P0420 catalyst efficiency code which was the reason for replacing the O2 sensor to begin with). As far as I can tell, the OBD-II system doesn't seem to mind that the sensor is gone, but this is a short-term fix to make the car driveable, I do want to pursue a permanent fix.

I switched from whatever was in the car when I bought it to Redline 75W90NS in in my 96 Legacy 5spd and it really helped out the shifting. It had 115K when I bought it and often "chunked" into 2nd gear instead of smoothly engaging, and that went away completely after the NS had been in for about 2-3K miles and has shifted great ever since (now has 170K). The 75W90NS is less common (many places that carry Redline oil seem to carry the 75W90 but not carry the 75W90NS) but the NS appears to be what you want to use for the transaxel.

I currently have a check engine code on my 96 Legacy 2.2 (160K) of reduced catalyst efficiency. I observed that there are two O2 sensors on the catalyst (one at each end), and believe that only the front sensor really controls the engine systems and that the rear O2 sensor is the only means that the computor could possibly detect a catalyst problem, so I plan to replace the rear O2 sensor and reset the CEL. My questions are: (1) Does this seem like it makes sense (rear O2 sensor likely going bad instead of the catalyst going bad), or at least a good first step? The CEL has not stayed on the entire time (it has gone out and back on twice on its own over a period of two months), and didn't go back on for about two weeks after I had reset it once with a scan tool seeming to indicate an intermittent failure instead of a continuous failure. (Same single catalyst code each time). (2) When replacing a sensor, one of the manuals recommends removing the O2 sensor with the exhaust system still hot to take advantage of the looser expansion from the heat, and the factory manual says to use an anti-sieze on the new sensor. I often use some FelPro C5A copper anti-sieze on bolts and spark plugs, but am wary about using solvent-based compounds like this directly on sensors. Is this stuff OK, or are there special compounds to use on O2 sensors?

I have a 96 Legacy AWD 5-spd 2.2 with 160K miles, and with the aid of a scanner found trouble code P0420 "Catalyst system efficiency below threshold (CAT)." The factory manual says if there are no other trouble codes showing (I have no other codes showing), to (1) check for leaks in the exhaust system (I didn't feel any exhaust leaks by floating my hand along the exhaust system), or (2) remove the front and rear catalysts and check for damage at the face of the catalysts. *** Question 1: My main question is, if I remove the catalysts to visually inspect them (and it looks fairly straightforward to unbolt the section and reinstall it with new gaskets), would "damage" at the faces be fairly obvious, or is damage or degradation subtle? Question 2: How many miles should catalysts typically last (most of my miles are highway with Chevron regular gas)? I've had two other cars that sold with over 300K and original good catalysts. *** Other background info: This model has a front and rear catalyst, with two oxygen sensors, one in the front of the front catalyst and one in the rear of the front catalyst. My guess is that with oxygen sensors on both ends of the front catalyst, that the OBD-II system could detect specific performance deficiencies occuring at the front catalyst. Since there are no sensors downstream of the front catalyst, the only performance deficiency that the system could detect occuring from the rear catalyst would be obstruction or reduced (or increased) flow, which I would think would be obvious visually. The only problem I noticed from the outside was the support bracket between the catalysts that secures them to the transmission extension housing was broken in half, although it looks as if this has allowed the rear oxygen sensor to hit an adjacent bracket as it has a dent in it. I will try to test the oxygen sensor response with my scanner likely as the next step along with replacement of the broken support bracket (so that's one reason why my catalysts hang down nearly an extra inch), and then reset the codes before removing the catalysts, as if it's a problem inside one or both of the catalysts, the code sould reappear quite soon if not immediately.

Finally broke down and bought a scanner (eek - $429), and selected an EZ-SCAN-5000 because I can use it without a Palm or laptop, it's a scanner in addition to a code reader, and it will also read OBD-II systems on my 96 and the older OBD-I and EEC-IV systems on pre-1996 cars. It really was simple, just program in the model and year of car and voila - codes and descriptions for all (as the Check Engine light is now on in my 92 and 96 cars). I still haven't utilized all of its abilities yet, but have already paid for half of it by being able to read the codes myself.

After you complete your hose changes and refill the system, I always let the air bleed out of the cooling system by leaving the radiator filled an inch or so from the filler neck, and then idle the engine until it's completely warmed up (and the thermostat opens). You will likely see air bubbling up into the radiator, and it should be mostly bled out once the engine is fully warmed up. Then top off the radiator the rest of the way and put the cap back on.

My 96 Legacy L Sedan 5sp/2.2 with AWD and 165K gets 28-30 mpg (commuting between 60-80 mph), mostly freeway driving. All original, and I'm pleased with such mileage for such a relatively large car with AWD.

For the "whirring" sound, you can use a mechanical stethescope (I got a great little one from Sears ~15 years ago I think for around $20 that you can REALLY identify noises through) or, less precise but still potentially adequate, use a piece of tubing (heater hose or similar-size stiff hose), or even a metal rod. Position one end to your ear and touch the other end on the different areas that have bearings, like your A/C compressor, alternator, water pump, and anything else that is run by your belts like idler pully/tensioner (I've replaced those idler bearings on a Toyota every 100K or so but don't remember if Subs have them). You should hear the whirring noise VERY clearly when you find the right area if it's one of these bearings going bad. Be careful not to catch your listening tool in any moving parts! Note for checking your A/C compressor, test that two ways: one way with the compressor "off" (you can make sure that it's off by turning off the A/C and positioning the vent selection switch to anything other than the windshield defrost position, as the compressor will periodically engage in the defrost position even if the AC is turned off), and check it again with the compressor "on" by turning on the AC. Regarding the drivetrain clunk and rattle noises, I'd jack up the car and (when the drivetrain has cooled down) climb underneath and simply bang around on things with your hand to see if something simply seems to be loose or noisy. If nothing seems obviously loose, there are some boothstrap ways to check for gross U-Joint or rear axel problems that work at least on the older cars and I would think would still work with AWD. Jack up the rear end of the car (both tires off the ground) and try to easily rotate them back and forth with your hands. Now, the goal isn't to try to actually "turn" the wheels, but to see if you feel "play" or clunking when you move back and forth. If the rear end has play or if a U-joint is really bad, you might notice play or a clunk right there and see if you can tell whether the noise is coming from the rear end, driveshaft (probably the most likely culprit), or transmission (the least likely culprit). In my experience with bad U-joints on other cars (not Subs), a U-Joint (or driveshaft CV joint) can be going bad and, although not loose by hand, can make clunking sounds in addition to "clicking sounds" that one can hear from under the car while driving. Have someone drive the car SLOWLY down a QUIET alley (alleys are great because some of the sounds you're listening for get bounced back off nearby buildings and so are easier to hear) while you open the passenger door and try to listen for "clicking" from under the car. U-joint clicking sounds are not nearly as loud or noticable as those from front axels when the CV joints are going bad, but any clicking from them means they need to be replaced. Good suggestions above to check the engine and transmission mounts too - they can break in half and allow the drivetrain to move around loosely. Oops - perhaps it's the old Sierra Nevada bottle or tire jack still rolling around in the trunk after all these months..... Good luck and hope it's something simple.

So far, none of the pieces of equipment noted will quite do: The OB Diagnostics unit, Auterra unit, Harrison unit, and Scantool unit all only read OBD-II systems (generally 1996-on) and not older pre-1996 systems, and all appear to require use in conjunction with a PC or Palm Pilot. The Innova 3100 unit is a code reader only, and only reads OBD-II systems though it is a freestanding unit (useable without a PC or Palm). I need to be able to read both new OBD-II for the 96 Subaru and older OBD-I (such as EEC-IV) for the 92 Ford, and do not have a Palm Pilot or a PC (at least one that lazy me wants to carry into the garage). Any experience with other units?

The "Check Engine" light (MIL) has been staying on in my 96 Legacy with OBS-II. In a previous thread discussion that I put out some time ago about the Check Engine light, it was recommended to go to an auto parts store (ie Auto Zone) as they read codes as a free service. Well, the parts stores no longer do this code reading service (Auto Zone said that the Bureau of Automotive Repair made them stop because that is a repair service and they are not a repair facility). As a result, it appears that I either need to take it to a repair shop or buy my own scanner. I am opting to buy a scanner, because I also have a 92 Ford that has an intermittant Check Engine light problem. The question is, has anyone had any good or bad experiences with various types of code readers or scanners? So far, I am looking at the Autoxray EZ-SCAN 5000 for $429 as a scanner that can read both the old-style systems (the EEC-IV on the Ford and the newer OBD-II on the Subaru). The software upgrades for this unit are free and it's guaranteed for 3 years, and it seems to be good for the money (relatively speaking-ouch!). It appears that most of the instruments that only read codes are at least $200, but the scanners provide more real-time engine diagnostics and are continuously upgradable. Any experience or comments?

I had to replace my heater/fan/AC control lights too. It was actually easier than I expected, but I had to wing it because the books don't give very good instructions for this. The biggest problem, however, was getting the correct light bulbs from the dealer. This was a year ago now, so my memory is a bit hazy, but I remember that the dealer diagrams simply showed a light bulb, but gave two part numbers (as it turned out, one for a long bulb and one for a short bulb) with no other comment. As it turns out, the heater cluster takes one of each, and you can't tell which one until you get the bulb out of the back of the cluster plate.