Johngenx

Both our Subies are AT versions, and have been driven in some pretty slippery conditions, including black ice and lots of snow. First, tires are it. If you expect real winter, get winter tires. AWD is only as good as the tires you put on. Next, I agree on the LSD. Our Forester is the "S" trim and has the LSD, and it's worth it. If I were buying new, I would make sure I got at least the trim level that offers LSD. It makes a difference in all low traction conditions. I think all the OB's come with it, but I might be wrong. Our 01 OBW has it, and again, very desirable. Manual or AT, get whichever you like. Either is fine for 99% of people, and it sounds like your driving patterns suit either. If you're reselling, the AT version might go a bit easier...

Our 01 OBW had a CEL that came on for a few days and then went out, and so on. Needed a new knock sensor. This fault has no changes in the operation of the car. The only way to tell is with an OBD-II reader.

On OBD-II cars (all 1996-) this is an unnecessary measure. The CEL will come back on if the condition is not fixed. If the condition has been "repaired" then the CEL will go off after so many cycles and diagnostic checks. If you have fixed the problem with the gas cap, then the light will not return. If it comes back, and you can't get it to go away, read the codes and begin a diagnosis.

$100 just to read the code? Robbery! And the dealers wonder why we beat them up?

I have heard about tranny weakness, at least in 02 models, but can't confirm if the rumours are true.

Both our Subies are AT versions, and both have a teeny "lag" (for lack of a better word) before the "full" AWD kicks in. As I read the Subie literature, it seems that the clutching system for the AWD waits until wheelspin happens on the front wheels prior to engaging the rear wheels fully. This is different from the manny-tranny versions, where the AWD system is engaged "all the time." I don't think it's valid to compare AWD behaviour between AT and MT versions.

I'm not sure about Subarus, but on other makes I own, I have seen lots of people cause themselves nothing but grief with K&N filters. Can you get them to be specific? Is it a fuel trim problem, as they seem to be saying? What are the codes exactly? Can they share the adaptation values for fuel trim, if they say it's running rich/lean, they should be able to show you that. The system should be able to adapt to the increased air flow (if there is any) with the K&N filter. However, the common problem with K&N's is that they either allow contaminents or filter oil to ruin the intake air measuring device. I know that K&N's have a huge following and people will swear that they can get 50hp with them, but on the dyno, I have yet to see a K&N get more than a couple ponies on a stock car.

Well, it's not "normal" as in part of the design, but it does happen to lots of Outbacks. When we bought our 01, pretty much all of the units we tested did it, including the one we bought. Ours still does it, but since we knocked some extra bucks of the price, we live with it until I feel like pursuing it.

We usually buy used cars, but we bought "newish" models for the creature comforts the newer models offer. Both our 01 Subies offer heated seats, mirrors and wiper-park. They have good CD changer stereo systems and are both in virtually perfect mechanical condition. I'm not freaked out by HG problems on Phase 2 2.5's. If it goes, I'll fix it, or have it fixed. By buying 01's, we already saved close to $50K combined.

Is there any European nations that drive on the left? I can only think of the UK.

You'll need to read the adaptation values to see what's going on, but a rich condition is typically a metering problem when it comes to air mass or volume and/or fuel pressure. Normally, the fuel pressure problem results in a lean condition, and an air mass metering problem results in rich running. Don't panic yet. Wait and see if the CEL comes on again. If it comes on again, and stays on, then get serious about finding the problem. A rich or lean condition can ruin your catalytic converter.

In all-city driving, our Forester gets bang-on 10L/100kms. Recently, we got about 40cm of snow and traffic was brutal. It was the worst tank I've seen at 12L/100kms. Highway is about 8.0. The OBW gets around 11.0 in the city and 8.0 highway. Pretty good for a 3600lb wagon with AWD.

OBD-II codes are sorted into generic and manufacter specific codes. The generic codes are the same for evey OBD-II vehicle. Is there anyone that has posted the Subaru specific codes? There are lots of Mercedes enthusiasts that have sites with all the MB specific codes, but I haven't searched for any Subie sites. There is a downstream O2 sensor that checks the cat-con, and the code typically indicates either that particular O2 sensor is failing, or the cat-con is failing. Now, that's not always the case. On other makes, I have seen all kinds of things throw that sort of code as it makes the downstream sensor see something out-of-whack. The best course of action will be to find the Subie code and then hook into a Subaru diagnostics unit to read the adaptation values for all systems. I'd pay close attention to fuel trim (even though there is no fuel trim code, it can lead you in the right direction). You could crawl underneath and tap the cat-con and see if there is loose material in it. It's done for sure if there is. Has the car seen lots of short trips? Common cause of catalytic converter failure. Also, did you drive with a CEL? If you drove with a fuel trim malfunction in the past, it can cause the cat-con to fail. Some people get a light and spend weeks or months trying to clear it themselves and wreck the converter instead of fixing the underlying problem.

At least for 2000 and later models, Subaru models do very well in passive safety tests. The IIHS off-set test is a good indicator of structural strength and passenger cell protection, and Subarus do well. Also, the Forester is not required to carry the "SUV will roll-over" decal, as it won't roll over like an SUV. My insurance company classifies the Forester as a "stationwagon" and we get an excellent rate with no SUV-surcharge. As far as active safety goes, Subarus are pretty good. They handle quite well (even the "tall" ones), but I wish they had better brakes. Both our Forester and OBW's brakes are mushy and ineffective compared to the German cars we've owned.

The main benefits I have found from using indies over dealerships is that they will often forget the "fluff" part of the service, reducing the overall cost. Example? My local dealer wants about $900 for a 96,000km service, and with taxes and waste disposal, it will come close to a grand. Most of the service is "checking" things like horn operation, lights operation, and so on. If you forget that stuff, do the fluids/filters and some crucial checks, you can cut the cost by 2/3. The indies are typically willing to sacrifice the fluff part of the services (and the profit it generates) to build customer loyalty. It's my experience that labour rates for indies are only a bit less, or the same. Here's an example... My Mercedes had a CE light. The dealer would charge $100 to read the codes and about another $100 for "diagnosis" time. It was an Air Mass Meter, which takes about ONE minute to change, but they charge $100. So, for 15 minutes of time, they bill $300 labour and a $400 part. My indie charges nothing to pull the codes, and when he saw the codes and read the adaptation numbers, he knew what it was. It took about two minutes to read the codes and another two to get an AMM from stock and install it. He charged me the $400 for the part and the "labour" he chocked up to customer retention. Guess what? It works. He gets all my repair business, and on some stuff, he does very well. He only made about $60 on the AMM he installed, but for about five minutes work, that's not bad. There is the carrying cost of the AMM itself, but it's such a failure prone part on almost all MB models, they fly off the shelf anyway. What really chuffs me about the Subaru dealer is that they have the most expensive services of any brand I have seen short of Porsche. Over the same mileage period, going only to dealers, my Mercedes would be HALF of either of our Subarus for service costs. I was not impressed by the cost of MB servicing by the dealer, and downright shocked at Subaru.

This won't work on OBD-II cars. You might be able to put the light out temporarily, but the codes are stored in a flash memory and cannot be erased by taking power away. If the condition persists, the CEL will come back on. If you have removed the condition that is setting off the light, after a number of key cycles and driving, the CEL will go off on it's own. It's quicker to simply clear the CEL with an OBD-II scanner once the offending condition is repaired.

The Forester is sensitive to driving style for fuel economy. My wife always gets better than 10.0L/100kms in city driving. (24USMPG for the metric imparied) Me? Not so good! I drive with a bit more "spirit" and I also do goofy things like climbing over big snow berms just for the heck of it. That playing causes the economy to drop. I've had some 14L/100kms tanks! (17mpg) Also, the Forester is a brick, so don't expect dramatic highway mileage. Make sure your engine air filter is fresh, plugs are good, fuel filter is new and check your tire pressures. After that, drive with a light foot. Among the Subaru owners I know, the AT versions also seem to get a teeny bit better fuel economy.

Well, neither of our subies spends much time at the dealer. I have found that Subaru dealer service is horrendously expensive, and I was shocked at the cost of service. I will never again gripe about my Mercedes dealer and MB service prices after spending time at the Subie dealer. If I took a 100,000km span for both my Mercedes and for either the OBW or the Forester, the Subie would be at least 2X the cost for service than the Mercedes. Parts prices for the Subarus are the same, maybe a bit higher for maintenance parts, and much higher on a few items. However, the killer is the labour allowances for the various jobs. Then, despite the higher costs, they have no luxury services. No loaner cars, no included detailing, a crappy waiting area with one lousy chair, no free coffee or other drinks, and so on. For the price they charge, I would expect some serious pampering. I love the cars, but the dealers (here, anyway) suck.

On the smaller Mercedes models, the rear door windows are divided into two panes, and the main pane is sized so that it will roll down completely. While I know it's knit-picking, I like the design. The other day in parking lot I needed to hand my daughter something through the rear window, so I just keyed the window down (on my Mercedes you can roll the windows up and down and open/close the sunroof with the remote-key) and having the window go right down was nice. When walking up to a hot car in the summer, I can completely open all four windows and the sunroof from the remote to cool the interior as we get in. Once the AC is blasting cold air, I just brush each of the window switches and all four "express" close. It's pretty handy. Now, my Mercedes cannot do something the OBW did on the weekend: Took four guys, four packs filled with winter camping gear, four sets of snowshoes and poles, four sets of ice-climbing gear and other junk 480km's to the mountains and go up a terrible winter mountain road to the trail head. I could have bought a 4-matic MB wagon that would do the same, but for a comparably sized car I'm looking at a minimum price of about $55KCDN to about $90KCDN compared to about $40KCDN for an 05-OBW. The Subaru wins on value, hands down! We paid $20KCDN for our used 01 OBW Ltd. last January and I looked at a 2001 E320 4-matic wagon and the best price I could find was about $40K. Heck, we bought the OBW and Forester for less than that, combined!

On the Forester, the window in the rear door will not go all the way down thanks to the width of the window compared to the internal size of the door. There is no way to allow the window to go down any further than it does already.

What is FMV? Mercedes' cars for some time (since about 97 or so) have had express-up and down on all windows. There is a sensor that stops the window and then lowers it if you put your hand (or any object) in the path of the window. Our OBW and Forester both have auto-down only, and only on the driver's window. Another annoying thing is that the rear door windows don't fully retract into the door, but stop about 1/3 of the way down. Other makers cope with having doors arched for wheel-openings, so should Subaru.

Canadian winter fuels are oxygenated and contain less BTU's per litre, and account for a mileage drop in the winter. Also, the cold contributes to some additional driveline resistance, more idling, and in some cases a loss of efficiency thanks to slightly lower operating temps. Most Canucks I know see a drop in their economy in the winter. Our own 2001 Forester AT has seen mileages as bad as 14L/100kms in cold weather, but typically gets 10.0 in city driving. Big difference, but nothing to be concerned about unless the mileage remains poor. Also, how fast are you driving on the highway? The boxy Forester starts to really use more fuel at 125km/h and above. I did a round trip to Jasper this last weekend and baely dropped below 140km/h in our OBW, and got 10.0 on the highway! It usually gets 8.0, sometimes even better. A 20%+ penalty for the extra speed. I expect the Forester would suffer even worse for fast driving.

The valves don't all slam shut when the belt breaks or shears. Often, the cams will "freewheel" and the valves will open and close while the pistons go up and down. Not good. Pistons hit valves, valves bend, stuff breaks, you are broke. Your assumption that the cams stop dead immediately is incorrect. Also, if they did, what about the valves that are on the lobe? Why the heck don't Japanese makes use timing chains? I'll put up with the little extra racket from the chain for the durability. On the various MB's I've owned over the years, the chain typically lasted 300-350,000kms and when needed changing, cost no more than a belt. On my C230, the double row chain typically lasts 350,000kms and costs about $400 for the chain, tensioner and labour at a dealer.

We had to cold start our OBW without it being plugged in at -36C this winter visting the mountains, it made a whining/howling noise for a few minutes until the engine warmed a bit. Didn't seem to be a cause for concern, so I never looked into it. Only does it when it's very cold and it goes away.

I have been corresponding with a person having an idle problem on his 2000 OBW (SOHC Phase 2 5L). The idle surges from 500rpm to 1500rpm on occasion, and runs rough when the idle falls. I did a search and only found some references to the EGR valve on older models causing a low idle, but nothing specific for this surging. Any help is appreciated...