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Yoyota

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About Yoyota

  • Rank
    Member

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  • Location
    whitehorse yukon
  • Referral
    search engine
  • Biography
    I am a fixer. I am looking for info on head gaskets and engine codes
  • Vehicles
    1995 legacy 1998 legacy

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. I have a 1998 legacy with a EJ 25 DOHC N/A engine. I'm having trouble sourcing a JDM engine of the same year. Whats my best option for different engines/year swapping? Any suggestions welcome.
  2. My 1998 Legacy has 523,000 Kms on it. Sadly she has started spewing oil out of all orifices and its time for a overhaul. I'm having trouble getting a JDM EJ25 DOHC N/A engine. (There is one place in Montreal.... but its throwing up a lot of red flags) Then I started reading and I was thinking maybe another Engine from another year?!! Is it better to try and rebuild the existing engine? Maybe another block with the existing intake and heads? Whats the best-est and easiest scenario in your opinions?
  3. Hello All, Obviously this is my 1st subaru motor pull. It is from a Canadian 2006 Forester. I have all of the bolts out. There were 3 or 4. And the nuts off of the 2 bottom studs. I have a cherry picker and the bloody thing will not separate from the Transmission. Do I have to remove the studs? Can I use a chisel and separate the two? Is there a special trick I am missing? Thanks in advance for any advice. Cheers Yoyo
  4. Oh yeah. Totally labor intensive. Yes I thought about replacing the hatch but the wreckers wanted $450 and it was the wrong colour. I think that the idea of the lube on the cutting wire would make a difference in extraction time. Certainly spend less time taking yet one more string from my guitar.......
  5. Great Idea with the lube! I forgot to connect the defrost so NOW I will have to take a part the inside of the hatch. So sad..... I think you can repair the defrost lines with a kit no?
  6. I had a rock thrown through my rear window last week. For the first time in a long time the Internet let me down. Very little information on how to remove and replace the rear glass on any car- never mind a Subaru. So here is my accounting of my experience. It should be mentioned that the real reason I did this is because the cost of the glass and the install fee was pretty crazy expensive. Min $650 and then $260 on top of that to install it never mind taxes. It took me most of the day to hack out the replacement glass from a salvaged hatch back, clean up the broken glass from the receiving car and glue it into place. A lot of work to be sure but I saved $900+ so, worth it in my opinion. Here is the before picture: The tools that really helped were a oscillating saw and guitar strings. Saw in action ( Look very closely for the little teeth) I used a medium sized blade on the saw. A 3/4" blade for wood. I really took my time and did not force it at any point. First thing I did was to remove the "SUBARU" bar and lights from the donor hatch. It would get in the way of the removal of the glass. I put a piece of foam to protect the glass. At times I had to lightly strap the hatch to my work table to stop it from moving. I used the oscillating saw to cut a hole for the guitar string. You have to use them like a pull saw. A handle on either side. Pull, pull,pull. I started with the largest E string and worked my way through a set of old strings, breaking them as I went. I went through almost a full set but finished with the second smallest string I had started using wrenches as handles but it was too hard on my hands so I made some wooden handles and drilled a small hole for the guitar string. I had to keep a eye out to not hack up the gaskets on the window. That being said there was some damage done to the seals. Not enough to worry about but it would have been nice to pull the window cleanly. FINISHED! One of the surprises were these plastic plugs that had to be cut through with the wire The hardest part of this project was removing the glass intact from the donor hatch. It took a long time. You have to be careful of the defrost connectors and the seal on the donor glass. I took hours. Cleaning up the urethane caulking on the glass was fast and easy on the glass side with the oscillating saw!! Like 60 seconds!!! Not so much on the car side. I would strongly recommend safety glasses as the splinters shoot into your face as you cut away the glass impregnated glass with the oscillating saw. I also damaged the paint on my car with the saw. I was not too worried as it would be covered my the glass, but it still meant another trip to the hardware store. I could not find the perfect match of paint either. Again. Not worried as it would be covered. I masked the SUBARU bar and some lights with tape. Sprayed a couple of coats of paint on the bare areas while I tried to get my seized window wiper nuts removed. (Penetrating oil and a wire brush). I was lucky to have a glass shop 6 blocks away. They sold me this urethane caulking I think that you have you use the urethane caulking in one go. The glass shop recommended that you lay a bead the size of 3/8" or 5/16". I considered taping the glass into place as it dried but It was the end of the day and the glass seemed to fit snugly. The window wiper nut held everything in place as well. The "After" Picture. I don't think you could do this job without the guitar strings or other string-like cutter. You could use other cutting devices for the caulking removal and clean up - but I really liked the oscillating saw. (I got mine at Canadian tire on sale for like $30) A sharp chisel and utility knife would do in a pinch. Just remember to take your time and don't force things and it all should work out.
  7. Hello All! I have just been given a 1992 Subaru legacy with a EJ22 that had the crank pulley sheer off the woodruff key. The mechanic said he figured that this threw off the timing 15 degrees. The vehicle started but had no power. So I took off the timing belt covers- moved the cams to their marks aaannnnd. Nothin. The timing belt is all aligned. I even counted the teeth as per the manual and everything checks out. So here is the question: -Is it possible that it is still not properly timed? My only other thought is that they ran it on nothing but the battery and that is why there was no power. (By the time I got the car its battery was pooched.) Another question is: Does the crank pulley have anything to do with the timing of the motor? I can't see how- but what do I know? lol Thank you for your thoughts on this. Yoyo
  8. Hey all, I Just bought a 1998 Legacy with the 2.5l engine. (For $100!!) I fixed the front bearing. Took it for a ride and then noticed 3 things: 1) the engine was smoking. 2) it stank like fuel near the rear. 3) the running lights kept clicking on off on off on off. So I assume that the engine was smoking from the oil leak dripping on the exhaust. Is there a seal on these babies that goes regularly? I will check the gas tank filling hose for cracks etc and pull the relay that keeps clicking. If anyone else has had any one of these problems I would love to hear about your experience. Thanks for reading Yoyo
  9. Hey! Thanks for your reply! The car is for sale at an upcoming auction. It says "Engine blown" in the report, but I can get it to turn over. Not start. If the engine was seized it would not turn over right? I checked the oil and it looked clear. So I am wondering if it could be something else. Like the starter not engaging. Any way, I thought I would see if it had any codes to help me Diagnose it.
  10. Hey Guys, I have a question: Would there be OBC II codes for a blown head gasket? Thanks for your time Yoyo
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