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I have a 99 Forester with a 2.5 and the body is like a phone booth. I get 25 average city and highway and my friends with 2.2s all claim they do better than I do.

Not many turbos here. Have you tried the NASIOC forced induction forum?

Ultimate subaru members are everwhere!!!

Try not to drive it at speed until Subrat hears it. Usually the core is ruined if a rod lets go, but cores should be easy to come by. A rod sounds so much different than a valve almost anyone competant can tell.

By now most of your seals are tired. The front and sides of the engine are not too hard but if you nead a rear maine seal the engine has to come out. Best to leave that for other major work. You probably want to do a timing belt on a reseal and this whole thing is best done by someone with experience to help you. If the rest of the engine is OK doing a seal and service put the car up for 100,000 miles. On my car at around 90,000 I had all the seals replaced, timing belt, water pump, and a tensioner. A few years later I have 128,000 and it is still going strong. Those 2.2s are great motors and I would not give up on it unless I was very sure it needed replacement. Do you live near any board members who could look at it for you and give you some advice?

I haven't had any fail yet at 128,000 miles on my 99 Forester. the mild weather in CA may have someting to do with this with no freezeing cycles. We used to do boots on VWs and Porsches regularly with bolt ons. you usually got a couple more years out of the axle if it din't get dirt in it and was not already too worn.

A lot of the older Subies I have heard have lifter tick. This can be clogged lifters or a defective oil pump seal. they also all tend to leak oil until they are properly serviced and resealed. If it was my car I'd get it to a very competent mechanic I trusted and see if it is anything major. If it is not then give it a complete service and fix waht is wrong. If it is major those CCR engines are great and always available.

They both do the job. My Forester has been a winner in the mud for me with a stick, and I hope MT Smiths chimes in. He lives with a steep snowy driveway and says his automatic could outperform his stick in the snow.

Another vote for just change it. It's not that hard and if you do a search here I think you can find directions.

There are a lot of big 2.2 fans here. That would be my choice any time it was available.

I've had more trouble with overheating screwing up a piston than a rod. If the tabs melted it did get hot but that may not matter if you go to court. As long as you kept antifreeze in it and the oil changed (and in it) the judge might rule in your favor. I'd have to say you don't have much to lose by trying to get compensated for it, but it would be very good if you have a paper trail of service. I got free head gaskets from Subaru but I had a full file of service reciepts and had the work performed at the dealership. I had no warranty at all as I bout the car used with near 100,000 miles. Luckily for me Subaru covered my model.

I can understand your starter working but not that one. When I learned to drive it was on my uncle's mail route from Greenville Maine to Rockwood. I thin it was about 20 miles. We started the car in Greenville and it ran until the PO in Rockwood. I often waited fro paperwork and had to run into buildings so I shut it off at every stop. Of course the 190 E was a taxi in a lot of the world so it used a number of heavy duty bits and the starter mush have been one if it lasted 17 years.

That sure was an overheating incident that would do the trick. It is next to impossible to say why now as there could have been so many reasons and it makes no difference. If I really loved the car I would consider another engine but with that crummy luck you might just want to sell it and buy a car with a warranty.

I drove that sucker to work and then ran a route around the airport where I picked up customs entry papers twice a day. That car had more time at SFO than the average 747. It was a lot of stop and go like yours too, some stops would be 200 yards and some half a mile. I can't believe I never changed a starter on that car . I had it 17 years when I sold it. The pump was easy on that too as it was located outside the tank under the car. I'd hate to even think how many sets of brakes I must have had on it.

I wan't sure you could get a 2.2 in a Legacy then but I guess it was the automatic with 2.5? If it was 2.2 I'd be happy with either and go with condition.

I've heard of several folks getting stung by head gaskets on the 2.5. nobody I know has complained about an OBS 2.2. If it was my kid it would be 2.2 all the way.

Scratch the end of the stick with rough sand paper. Clean all the grit off and try it.

I think there is not a lot of disgreement but funds enter into it. On my car I had all the seals changed, the tensioner, water pump, and the oil pump resealed. On DOHC cars the tensioners get expensive so folks tend to change them a bit less. Water pumps are expensive but I just don't want to disturb the front of the motor for another 100,000 miles myself.

Good chance the lube might do it then. This is really common in the winter when stuff shrinks.

a lot of work but I bet you are happy. Nothing like a job well done!

And if it seems to come from the column under the wheel spray silcone lube in the gap.

But if you get a wrecking yard pump you might soon have the same problem. On my last Mercedes I went through three pumps and one relay in over 300,000 miles so you aren't doing too bad TC. I think the last pump only had a year and maybe 20,000 miles on it when i sold the car. At 128,000 on my Forester I have not had to replace pump or relay so it is doing OK. I think I had about 130,000 miles on my Chevy S10 when that electric pump went (messy job, you have to drop the tank) so I would think I may need a Subaru pump in the next couple of years, but who knows, I might get lucky.

Worn, loose, or somebody installed and adjusted it dry. You should get the windshield wet before adjusting. One other thing I've seen is a too long blade.

If the knocking is only when cold it could be piston slap too. This is very common on modern motors and is not to be worried about if it goes away when warm.

It is possible to have interesting problems with driveshafts, but they often come to light on inspection. You can have siezed joints or splines, but the real bear is if someone installs a driveshaft out of phase. This is a dumb trick but it has been done many times and is why you should mark a shaft on dissasembly if there are no arrows. If the U Joints are on the wrong angle to each other it can cause binding, vibration, and very early joint failure. I think I have heard of one bad enough to snap the joint on start up after the repair. I would have thought that would be fairly easy to see when one changed shafts though.