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I read the TSB and replaced the Subaru reccomended parts for the same problem. It was not right yet as I did not have enough pressure from the master. After replacing the master too it has been a couple of years with no furthur problems.

I'm sorry, I meant internal. I have brain damage today. The conditioner is unlikely to do much for your engine.

Then just try some silicone spray.

If you ever leak it will be external. Replacement of the gasket should be a permanent fix. Sorry, you have the poor gasket design. Put a few bucks by for replacement if needed, and if you never need it throw a good party.

Like Nipper said before, you don't want to gain too much speed. If you are serious the first thing I would do is pop the panel and remove the contoller fomr the window. See how much pressure it takes to go up and down. Clean and lube until it is easy.

Doesn't the WRX have a pull clutch too? Somebody has probably done this already but I would expect it to be difficult and expensive.

Spray some silicone lube down the track and see if you don't have a miracle. If you add more wire you will just overheat something else when the real reason is resistance to movement. Lubeing your window tracks in the door should be done with white lithium whenever you have the panel off. Also lube your losk and such. Treat all rubber on the car with a rubber treatment too and it will help the car stay water tight.

not on Foresters. They got the SOHC in 99. The Legacy Outback got it in 2000 in the US. The only reason I have a 99 Forester was to avoid the DOHC in the 98s.

If it's a 99 and in America it's SOHC.

I got a PO 420 and was assured that it was my converters. One front oxegen sensor later for $60 and it has been cured for a long time. I vote with Nipper to try that first. If your car is a CA model it will have a sticker saying so.

I was advised here to try the KYB Gr2s on my Forester. With those and an Ebay WRX rear swaybar I ended up with a pleasant handling car that is neutral front and rear. And I also use an air wrench on struts, it beats heck out of any other method I've seen.

Gas turns to varnish if left untreated. If possible before storing an engine one should run it out of fuel. On my Pontiacs I don't drive I use fuel treatment because of apst hassles.

What transmission does it have? I have a 99 Forester with 5 mt that is doing fine at about the same mileage. If the car has had all the proper service it should be fine. Have it looked at by a subie expert who is on your side.

Some of them stick by the pins. You also have to pull the brace I understand. Some folks have had a real struggle helped by levers and penetrating oil.

On some vehicles the seal retainers set the play on the ring and pinion. This is not really by inch lbs but by gear pattern. On this type if you carefully mark where it is currently and the exact number of turns to get there if the spin type you are fine. With the shim type you just put the same shims back in that were there in the first place.

Gee, you would think Meth heads would have energy enough to do more of the maintenence.

That's interesting. With a loose gas cap the light will flash? I have just seen them come on steady, but the only time my Subie did this was when it wanted an ox sensor. My BMW wanted a new $1.00 gasket on the gas cap and the light was also steady. You learn something every day.

99 Forester wagon, I average a bout 25 or a bit less city and freeway.

I'm sure you checked all the fluids and checked the manual first right?

Automatic or manual trans? You need the codes checked, try Autozone.

you can shift by matching speeds of the gears when that happens.

I think you should do a bit better, but not a lot. I live in San Mateo and drive in SF pretty frequently. My Forester averages around 25 normally. In the City a lot and I'm lucky to see 18.

How was the endplay measured? If there is no flywheel on it some engines can move a lot.

this is just about the time for a leased 2001 to come off lease. Lots of folks figure a car this old is time to trade.

97 it would be possible to damage an enigne with a Seafoam treatment. there are two ways I can think, but I have not heard of this for years. people used to remove carbon by trickling water down the carb while holding the throttle open. On rare occasions someone would trickle too much and cause piston slap or full hydraulic lock by stalling the engine solid.