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Any hardware shop, Sears, tool company, or auto parts store. Other names are end cutters, cutting pliars, snippers, and side cutters.

Now that's hijacking a thread to a drive in movie.

If you check Bobishtheoilguy I believe the chart indicates that synthetics do tend to be a bit lighter.

Naa. Down there it will actually protect your motor a bit better for the conditions you get. The 5 part would be great for cold strating in cold weather and should help get a tiny bit better mileage and emissions. I am near SF and I run 15-50 in my Forester but it has a lot of miles.

If it has the stock engine I think it would be interference. There is much confusion on this issue, but as far as I know all the late models are. With just one tooth off it would run poorly but would be unlikly to clash valves.

Been there and done that. I had a farm in the sticks in Maine and had to commute to Augusta for school and work. You are completely dependent on the car at that point. When I was a kid I always had several heaps around to patch together. It took about five to equal one reliable car.

Years ago I was into air cooled VWs. All we did and talked about was rebuilding engines. A car would last through about four engines easily. If you do good maintenence a Subaru engine can last the life of the car. There are a lot of engines out there that survive past the life of the car. This is a different market for sure. You also get the fact that these engine are fairly complicated and have alloy blocks. This means that some skill is needed to do a good cylinder wall for a rebuild. I think there is a good reason so many folks get a block from CCRINC. We do have some enthuiasts that rebuld them for fun but a lot of us are just maintaining and working on what breaks. At this point I think the engine in my Forester is going to last as long as I own the car as at 125,000 miles the only difference is that the piston slap is a little louder when cold.

Inspect it. You may have to pull a few things off to get room to grab it and twist to see if it is breaking apart. If it's not check the torque on it. Most pulleys wobble a bit as they are rarely totally true.

The only portion that is ever holding is the shear line. The rest of the pin is to keep it firmly in place. Sounds to me like you have the sucker firmly in place. If you drive the car a few miles and inspect and it is still firm I'd run it. If one falls out you have your chace to put another in. If both come losse you can change it.

Yep, that would involve one of the seals I was talking about. He is right it would be easier to see if it is pumping by putting a guage in it and they usually have test holes.

I wonder if you really have to pull the axle out? I think the splines do the driving and all the roll pin does is keep it from falling off. If the remaining roll pin clears I might try installing the other end of the axle in and turning it to see if there was any binding. If it felt good I'd try it.

and become a public transit rider? It seem like you are having rotten luck lately.

Your description sounds to me like the start of a wheel bearing. They change with cornering load, but I have trouble isolating a noise when its right in front of me, much less on the Internet.

there seems to be a lot of the GLC types in yards around here but Legacys tend to be on the road. You have to wreck one to kill it. When you aren't looking for one and have no place to store it a great parts car will come up.

When the needle bounces that is usually a hint. I had a Mercedes that had a relay that went nuts when it was cold and groaned. It only did it for me on holiday trips because its not that cold here, so I just lived with it.

hope nothing is too rough on it. Makes me think I'm too confident with my Forester always thinking that it is not too valuable and nobody will steal it.

sounds like the car has cold piston slap and Subaru is going to fit the piston kit. If a competant mechanic does it the car should be fine. Actually the car will probably run 200,000 miles if you don't fit the kit.

I have had heater motors that made a terrible sound until they warmed up. They would suffer for years and finally die.

the torque converter has a couple of seals that must hold pressure on most vehicles I have worked on. I've never had a Subaru automatic so most of these folks know more about them than I do. I think the closest thing to this would be a Toyota forklift for me. I would lean toward trying a rebuilt torque converter. My automatic tranny place has a dyno where you can test it out of the car. anything like that near you?

Did you use the same torque converter?

Could be Ed. Pretty hard when you can't see it. A new belt may make it run better and I'm sure its needed regardless. I wonder about the tensioner too as if it slipped why did it?

Actually Ed changing cam timing has been a common speed trick for years. You don't go too far but that's what a degree wheel does. My BMW has a system called a vanos that constantly changes cam timing. A couple folks I know have screwed up the cam timing on late models and gooten away with it after fixing the timing. I understand they can run pretty poorly but still drive if you make the right mistake. I think I have also heard of folks screwing up so badly they bent a valve.

It sounds like a high pressure seal popped. There are a few of them in there and on a 90 or so car they would be near 15 years old. You would have to carefully dissasemble one to find out.

Odds are they would both work. All you are doing is trying to get the gasket to lay down flat. I have seen different methods work although I prefer to use a factory pattern if possible.

Probably is. I have heard of a couple late model engines that were set up wrong and ran poorly. Retiming them cured the problem. This is lucky because if it is far enough off the valves can tangle and that is expensive. There is a reason they tell you to change the belt.