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If you consider that my car was over the warranty period and I never had a warranty in the first place, plus I did it two years before they put the warranty on.... I think this means Subaru has chose to treat the phase 2 owners better.

I guess we won't have to get into the definition of churn then. (chuckle chuckle.)

I've been using Interstate since I could buy them at discount, but my guy retired so probably Autozone. A lot of them are made by the same makers with different stickers.

I think all you should see on this forum are 1.8, 2.0, 2.2, and 2.5s, and the occasional H6. If you do a search on these you should come up with all the codes. The search function can be very handy when you are just getting familiar with these cars. I have an EJ25 myslef I think, and I have seen quite a number of EJ22s, but there are lots of Subaru models I am not familiar with myself.

Subarus always churn a bit before starting. I reckon as folks say the fuel has to build up. My BMW is an instant starter as are all the GMS in our fleet. I wonder if it is churning more than normal? Anybody nearby have a subie you could listen to?

buy a leftover.

I don't know what is available to you, but here in CA all auto parts stores and Radio Shacks sell grommet kits. If I am running a wire I often run two or three so that if another goes I have one handy. I noticed recently when I was working on a locomotive that somebody had done the same thing. If they have to pull 35 feet of wire thay do a few extras too. I thought it was just us bus guys.

If you are talking about bolt on caps that hold the cam in the same ones should be used. If you don have them you install the cams and torque the bolts donw one by one mixing caps until it turn freely. Needless to say this is an emergency method as the final machineing gets done with the engine running.

I'm just an old bus mechanic, but I would just run another wire rather than bother with it.

the Tribecca has a good engine, trans, differential, and a good song.

As these atumatics get older wear on the clutch packs and seals is going to mean that the engagement point is going to get later and later until the clutches are totally worn out. At that point you will have no engagement at all. On later model autos I have driven in snow you could feel the rear drive come in. I imagine the older the car the faster the wheels will be turning when it engages.

Mine really got the mud test yesterday and I'm not looking forward to cleaning it.

I may move to Michigan so they can do mine. In the Bay Area here I would expect far more money for this job.

Not quite, about the time a slave cylinder goes out the master can fail. On my 99 Forester I have replaced them both in sprite of the TSB that says to replace slave. hoses, and washers. Change the clutch master cyl.

I have heard of one other car about the same year as yours with a whine. It was his ring and pinion they thought and in the end the dealer changed the tranny with a rebuilt. I think that one was a 2.5 though. Keep after them Paul becuse it really should not sound like a fire truck.

I learned to drive on the mail route from Greenville Maine to Rockwood. My uncle taught all the family kids there. We might go five miles without a mailbox , then at the end of a road you wouldnhave several, then maybe one every half mile. I think your route might be similar but with more heat and less 20 below zero weather? The route sure took a toll on the old Chevy wagons my uncle favored. You got a bit of high speed, a lot of stop and start, and wear on everything.

I meant was the STI shortblock meant to be turbo? It sounds to me that you have exactly what you ordered. If you want to drive to CA I will be happy to trade engines with you. According to the STI I just looked up it should be a shortblock for a 300 hp intercooled turbo. If you put that together with no turbo and a stock set of 2.5 heads waht you have is exactly the result. Congratulations! You have just built an excellent non-performance motor. If you found the right set of 2.2 heads you might be able to get usable horsepower for your altitude. I suggest you check with NASIOC to see if anyone knows which heads have less ccs in the chamber.

I think the automatics should be more forgiving which is why I asked TC if he had an automatic. The cutches should slip a bit and will be able to do so more consistantly. Automatic transmisssions on busses are constantly slipping thier big allison clutches and although they do wear it takes time. The clutch plate type transfer on the automatics will be more like that. The five speeds are going to be more affected especially at high speeds. All you have to do is heat the coupling up and the fluid turns partially solid. Postal vehicles also often run many stops at low speeds. I think this is probably less likely to damage the trabsfer mechanism. I suspect postal service is more like what our route busses do. Heat is still your enemy but you run into different problems than you do wiht highway use.

Well the good news is it might run forever. I believe the 2.5 STI is turbo isn't it? In this case you have about the same compression ratio as a Briggs and Stratton. I thought of doing this myself to make the ultimate tough 2.5. The bad news is that you would lose power and gas mileage most likely. It really should be just a bit better that a good 2.2 but will be running when you are dead.

Is your car automatic TC?

That's what I would do myself. The rings are usually the only problem with a new motor in this situation. Specifically the oil rings. A clean up hone and rings would probably do great. I am surprised the dealer would do that as they often refuse to do internal work and just drop in a short block. I had one Diesel out of the maybe 50 I rebuilt that just refused to break in. In the end we pulled it down(not that easy a job on a 671 in a bus) and installed new rings and she did 750,000 miles before I sold it.

After 200 ft lbs it's better to go to 3/4 drive.

I think the best long range driver is the Legacy preferably as new as you can afford and definately past 2000. An often undernoticed car is the 2.2 powered (best Subaru engine IMHO) Outback sport wagon. I have a Forester that fits my lifestyle, but drive the models that interest you. There really is quite a difference between these cars.

If the car drives well now it sounds like most of the work you would want to do on it has been done. I would much rather buy that car with new headgaskets myself.

So you are working in a shop and the guy brings in this car and says it has a hesitation problem. What do you do? Shoot yourself?