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Check the stick above to see if it helps but I am fairly sure Outbacks got the phase 2 in 2000. Check to see if the headgasket treatment has been added or gaskets changed. Other than that look for all the standard stuff you would check on a used car. A 2000 should be ready for major service by now and if it has not been done plan to spend quite a few dollars and time on the car.

Cheers Kiwi, Hope it all goes well.Thanks for the lesson on Silverdale, must have been near it from time to time.

Remind me to tell you about the time my friend became the Easter Bunny on those.

I imagine those drugs are pretty good.......

Nip means the HVAC box. If you want to bleed the heater it is the usual water system.You fill it first and most cars have a little plug on the right side of the radiator you remove to bleed it. I have not seen the problem with the HVAC nip is speaking about, but I have seen a few folks who had air in the cooling system who complained about a runniing water sound.

No idea what you mean by biander but it is a non interference engine and should run with another belt. Make sure the water pump and tensioners are ok because one of them may have failed taking out the belt. If you have the time and money the front seals would be good to do while it's apart.

second the driveshaft shop. u joints like bearings tend to be standard sizes.

Where is Silverdale? I have relatives in Queenstown, New Plymouth, and Auckland. If you can't get a Subi fixed in Kiwi I guess you can't get one fixed anywhere. Good luck and I would also look for a U joint as that seems cheapest.

I imagine nobody has been shopping there. you might try Kelly blue book or Nasioc and see if you can find a matchup.

That's a common problem with all cars, after a few years and miles. I'd probably fiddle with it myself but a locksmith is a good idea.

Mnay brands of car do have this behavior. My daily driver is a BMW so I always check the BMW boards. Before that I had a Mercedes. Cat problems, PO420, and changing the front ox sensor seems pretty common on a car over 100,000 miles, and many cars don't make that.

I've got a 99 too. 125,000 miles or so on it. It required major maintence around 90,000 but it seems like it's good to go for several years now.

I've done quite a number myself where I did not change pistons. The limiting factor is really cylinder wall wear. A lot of these guys don't take the time to really check things properly. I've pulled apart engines that had stock size rings in an overbore. I had a good machinist for some years but he is retired now and I think it might be tough to find someone as good.

It may be different in your area Nip and folks are more sane, but most rebuilds here juat get a clean up bore and new pistons of whatever brand the rebuilder gets cheap. You can always pay extra or buy your own pistons. On my last rebuild I went 10 over and used genuine Mercedes piston and seals. That engine was better than it came from the factory.

I thought the green connector was supposed to be a test wire that should not be connected.

I put a new front ox sensor on my 99 and it got rid of the code. The front one works the hardest so I tried that first. It has been a few months now and no more PO420, I guess I'll see how long this works.

On my Forester you open the hood and look down on the passenger's side exhasut pipe. You can't quite see it but you can see the wires going to it. I just leaned down and changed it there, but I am in CA with little rust.

Price it in your area, perhaps they will let you do some work around the shop also where you'd learn something as well as get the job done.

I think they have been putting suspension in high speed rail wheels and working on sensors to tell when the track has a ripple. You aren't far off.

Cold and how long it has had to drain back all the oil make a big difference in my 99 2.5. If I leave it a week it hammers quite loudly until warmed up and if it get in the high 30s here it is noisier. If I drive it after only sitting overnight in the 40s it only rattles for 30 seconds or so. I suspect if somebody had this car in Alaska it would really rattle until warm.

Ah, now I see what you mean. I was not think of comparing it to the 2.2 it came from. It probably saved a lot of money not raising the deck as you could use all the same machinery. basically it is just a 2.2 with the typical hot rod tricks. I'm glad you got a famous amp back on the road where it belongs! I think an active wheel might very well work these days. They have done a lot of interesting things on trains you might look at.

when cars go down the production line parts are often used until they are gone. This make for some interesting match ups when you have a car that is near the end or beginning of one model year. Somtimes it's really neat as the last 1967 Volvo wagons got the 144 engine and 144 seats.

I like your electronics idea Blitz, sign me up for the first prototype. As for the piston what did raising the piston top and wrist pin achive? Less friction? I have always assumed that they got the slap when they cut the skirt, but I've never seen the pistons side by side to compare.

No piston slap is not the same as valve tap. Sometimes it's hard to tell the difference though. Piston slap is the psiton hitting the cylinder wall and valve tap is excessive clearance in the valve train. Anybody got a link to how it works for this person?

Blitz soon you will be able to put your skill in electronics to good use. As Subaru owners age a switch on the hearing aid would be very handy for this issue.