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especially under cold conditions like you have. I suspect it might not be so noticeable around here where the weather is mild. In Maine when it was really cold you could easily tell when you had just put light oil in the tranny of an underpowered car. It was so easy to tell because the car would stall before first time you let up the clutch in the AM, and would actually run afterward. You could also really tell a change of crankcase oil when the car would crank much faster witn new light oil. Stands to reason you could feel that drag until it warmed up anyway. I just put Mobil 1 in my BMW and am considering putting it in my Subie. It really feels and acts different. If I pull the dipstick the stuff falls off faster than I can get a rag under it. The BMW syn just sat there on the stick. That seems like it has to translate to a bit more power and less drag.

If it is I would call it normal.

the lack of oxegen.

weren't they the wonderful folks who brought you the Zero or the Oscar and later turned into fuji Heavy Industries?

but that does seem pretty strange.

Glad it seems to work.

There was a place in Hayward that rebuilt them a couple of years ago when I had one fitted to my Mercedes.

anyway. If you want to go fast get a WRX. I have a 2.5 and it does have a bit more juice than a 2.2 but the extra trouble is probably not worth it. My current ideal subie would be a Forester with a 2.2 such as was available in Oz and Kiwi.

that's what the rear in my BMW is running today. She got a nice oil change with Mobil 1 today and anew oil filter. The Subie got some Pennzoil 10-30 and runs all factory reccomended lubes.

in my young and broke days... I would say usually when you bypass a heater the temp goes up a bit on the gauge but it does not boil. If you were borderline before it is possible that this could put you over the edge but it means that something else is wrong. There is a bit of leeway built into the average car's cooling system to make up for being run in hot climates and the wear that happens over the years.

it was resolved I understand. I am running 2003 gaskets in mine with the goop just to be sure.

My parents lived in Greenville Maine when I was a college kid. I brought my VW up from Augusta to Greenville for Xmas. It was so cold that I had to adapt a hot plate to the sump to get it started. Once it started the 80 wt. in my diff was so cold it would stall the engine. Then when I got the 80 wt. a bit warmer the car would drive off forward in neutral when you let up the clutch because the oil was pumping like an automatic. I finally got the transaxle warmed enough to drive normally and then the gas line froze. Perhaps the gentleman had had experience like this. The front transaxle on a Subie will warm up and oil will move fairly quickly. The rear diff is isolated and takes much more time to warm in extreme cold. The question is what lubes better in extreme cold? Oil that will move or oil that is as you say "chapstick". I always got by but learned to mix motor oil and diff oil to get my cars to work. No really thin diff oil with crush resistance was available where I was back then. The real problem with ATF in a diff is that it has less crush resistance.

but some vehicles do use ATF in trannys and rears. My BMW runs it in the transmission (5 speed ZF). It was an old racing tirck to gain a pony or two but on the street you are better off with diff oil in an old diff. No rush to change it, but put it on your list.

They should be able to tell easily since they are Subaru experts. A sticking piston or pads that drag should be evident. Sometimes stuff like this can drive you crazy.

a lot more than 2.2s. I think it is because the 2.2s are very tough and a number of used engines are available. There is also the fact that rebuilding a 2.2 is not very cost effective unless you have an excellent car.

These Subarus just ain't as reliable as a good T Model dang it.

The emissions code makes sense as you dumped a bunch of raw gas in.

that was pretty much what I was thinking but did not want to mention. I used to stuff a potato in the pipe and drip in a bit of oil quick and look before it stalled. I have no idea what that would do on a modern car, but it worked on a 63 Chevy.

nearly a month ago. I cleared it and it has not been back yet. I do plan to change the ox sensors as they are due on my car by mileage. I think it came on because the rain cooled the cat so much it lost its efficiency.

The only one I have seen of these has been on my Forester and if I recall it had shims on the pads and just pins that need grease. If it was on her old car I figured the pins needed greaseing or the pistons were sticky in the calipers.

But at least a trained Subaru mechanic is going to know a bit more about Subarus and thier quirks than the local quick oil change. I just stopped using my dealer because they changed the clutch and did not change the pilot bearing, requireing pulling the transmission 9 months later. My head gasket failure was in no way the dealer's fault. I have the phase 2 and after hearing on the board about possible external leakage I monitored my coolant level closely. The first time it went down I started looking for leaks and found the telltale seepage from the head gasket. I had the dealer change the head gaskets, and several months later Subaru issued the goop and actually paid for my gasket change. The phase 1s that are off warranty do not get treated so well. To Subaru these are history now.

engine, the old Jeep Continental six, and the VW in aircraft too. Frankly I am not sure I'd like to be up in one of those. The guy who was useing a Subie in his aircraft had a whole different cooling system too so I am not sure that exactly realtes. I do beleive that the earlier ones did not bleed easily but I do think the unsupported cyl walls are the real problem. The fact that they are hard to bleed could be a contributing factor but a number of folks who had done everything right have had failures. Heck my car was dealer serviced from new and was leaking.

It seems like I recall you having two cars. One is a near junker and one was fairly late model. I guess I would have two appoaches depending on which car it was. If it was the old one I would do minimum maintence until it dies. On the late model one I would keep serviceing it as well as possible. It sounds to me like sticking brakes and if its calipers it can be expensive. If it just requires the lube its not too bad. I have been sick but I managed to do a brake inspection and lube on my Forester today. It took me about an hour for the front and an hour for the rear and most of the time is jacking and blocking up in the yard here.

have enemies! In this case though it sounds like you are in the ball park for around here.

and drive mostly to SF. I have a 99 Forester 5MT with about 112,000 if I recall correctly. I get 24-25 in the summer and around 21-22 in the winter. We are lucky enough to get reformulated fuel pretty early in the year here becuse the wind drops down in the winter and will not clear the smog.