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I always look at what I worked on and what is nearby. You could have installed the fuel filter backwards or it could be defective or the hose crimped. The fuel pump could be defective or have a blocked pickup or a crimp or bad connection. you could have knocked off a critical wire or hose. The bad part is that I have had something completely unrelated go bad on the test run. 99% of the time though it was me.
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Since I have one for the BMW it never thows any codes to read. Since I don't have one for the Subaru it threw me a check engine light on the way back from buying a 65 GTO. It may be that the Subaru feels that I am being disloyal and did this to get me back, rather like your cat peeing in your shoe. Regardless of this what is the preferred code reader and why.
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I have seen. The only harder vehicles I have done were Greyhound busses. With the motor lower than the heater abd the thermostat on the bottom one has to be fairly careful to get all the air out. I haven't really had a problem with it myself but I am pretty fussy about making sure all the air is out. After doing it once next time I'll modify the system.
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You will find a lot of other things when it is cleaned off probably.
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if the misfire moves? You do have the injector wire on the correct injector and all the coil wire correct don't you? Since I don't know exactly how your engine is configured take this with a grain of salt. I understand some subie engines fire both sides of the coil together so the coil wireing would not matter. I am more familialiar with my BMW which has seperate coils and if you mix one up it is kind of like having the plug wire on the wrong clyinder. Having the injector wire on the wrong cyl is another famous trick. It is very possible for an injector to have been damaged on head removal and work also.
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Curious?
cookie replied to Beaudiggity's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
or rust. I must say that is one of the more creative combinations I have heard of. Did they have pot at the Subaru factory in those days? Otherwise it is probably just a replacement door, and it is usually pretty easy to wire them for electric windows. A bit easier than changing over the window mechanism and upholstery. -
Get a 30 amp auto circuit breaker and as many fuse holders as you have subcircuits. Run a wire cluster from the breaker with an individual fuse for each circuit. You have to carefully calculate the load on each circuit and fuse it correctly. Dirive car until one fuse blows. Usually on a bumpy road. Now you only have one circuit to trace.
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probably an Exady it was not one of Subaru and Exadys better efforts. I suspect this was from the same batch of new material that my 99 Forester was. At best these cars had chatter when cold and many of them seem to fail earlier. I do understand they recycle better though. This is hydraulicly operated on this car I believe and there is no adjustment. By the way Gnu showed me his Legacy the other day and that has to be the easiest adjustment I ever saw on a car.
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about 89,000 miles if I recall. Get the latest variation of clutch kit which actually seems to work and chatters less. Apparently Subaru tred an organic lineing that did not work out so well for chattering and longevity. I usually get about 150,000 miles from a clutch and pull them out to inspect. On my last pickup it looked so new I could have reinstalled it. I hope to get a lot more miles on this Forester clutch.
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at the airport for a couple of weeks. When I get back in I hear all kinds of stuff that sounds new to me. Test it for sure, but this is a fairly normal reaction to getting back in your car. I used to run Airport parking at SFO and folks would call up and swear thier car had been driven becuse it sounded different.