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that may not be that far off. My 99 Forester usually loses about 1 Mpg here in San Mateo CA in the winter. It is mild here compared to your area. Take two asperin and call me in the spring.

I ask that because it used to be a very common way that folks flattened and ruined thier batteries in an airport parking lot I used to run. Then they install a new battery and go"Whats that light on the dash??".

Useing the latest version of gasket for your car installed absolutely correctly should work fine.There have been three versions of your gasket before they got it right. I have seen few repeat problems on a good head gasket repair. This should run around $1200 and include adjusting the valves while the head is off. My choice would be to move to a post 2000 model or 99 in a Forester. While these later cars have rare failures that include an external leak it is not so problematic and Subaru has a gasket fix and offers goop (sealer) and extended warranty. Oddly enough I have a 99 Forester with the phase 2 and have changed to the latest gaskets and run the goop too.

in Japan to see if it is OK to start yet.

Frankly hydraulic clutchs have suffered from wearing out at about the same time as the pressure plate and disc since they were introduced. There was a factory service bulletin on these asking for replacement of the hose and slave (at least on my 99 Forester). So I changed both after bleeding failed. It still was not correct and I felt I did not have enough flow from the master.I changed that and it seems like it will do another five years. When you change the clutch you put more load on the worn hydraulics so it is not unusal for them to die.By the way my failure was right after changing the clutch. I changed dozens of clutch hydraulics on Ford C series trucks when I was a mechanic. It was one of the most common failures, but here in SF all clutch componants get a beating on the hills.

try it in a rear engine Porsche sometime. This is the reson I sold my 911 after I realized I was never going to learn not to lift after so many years of driving.

Regardless, if it is hot you need it fixed now. This can end up throwing a wheel and costing far more from other damage. Usually I check by jacking it up and spinning the wheel and trying it side to side for play. Sometimes you have to pull the claiper out of the way to be sure it's not sticking brakes.

Seems like there are as many variations as a small block Chevy.

engines into his race cars and people were Epoxying oil pump pickups in I made a Pontiac oil filter for my Norton with Epoxied in fittings. It held oil pressure for 10 years until I sold it. I think it is good stuff.

on the phase 2 2.2? I think I walked away with the impression it was DOHC but I must have been wrong from what is stated here. It may have just looked different to me becuse it was in the dune buggey and at a different angle than I usually see.

but I seem to recall the last version of the 2.2 had DOHC and was interference. I think I remember seeing one that was fitted to a dune buggey and the guy told me it was a late 2.2, not a 2.5.

me to start doing that. I used to prime them right after a rebuild for the first start. You might cause your engine to throw a code on a modern motor.

count the threads or measure to be sure you put it back in the same place. An alignment is always better to do after because someone may have aligned the vehicle in a worn condition. In days of being broke I used to do my alignments with simple tools like tape measures and chalk marks on the floor.

but we don't have them in the US unless a car is Grey market.

and you paid about what I paid for head gaskets alone.

and it won't make any difference. I have heard two theroies on why they overheat when you have the thermostat installed with a slightly shot head gasket. Number 1 is the one Setright has stated well and the other is that when the temperature reaches a degree that it can only reach with a thermostat in the gasket leaks. This was demonstrated in a science class by putting a piece of aluminum on a bunson burner and watching it warp. There is no question that the engine will maintain more temprerature with a thermostat in. Who's right? I don't know and it would be very tough to test it. I guess the lesson to take away is that the gasket leak can be minimized enough to run for a while with the thermostat out. This would not be very nice in Alaska, but here in CA he will get away with it for a while at the risk of furthur damage.

when doing a job on an older car. All of these should be easily available at your dealer or parts store. Odds are you should just bring them in and match them up, or order online from ccrinc or Emily. To remove a nut from a stud when they come out together I was taught to put the stud in the vise and cherry the nut with heat. It usually comes right off then. You can reinstall the stud with jammed nuts or a visegrip. I like to use red Locktite when I insert studs to make it easy for the next bloke.

I am sure you checked the cable routing and it is the same as a standard cable operated Subaru?

they will last just as long as they need to.

I suspect this is more likely a matter of replaceing a hydraulic clutch with cable operation. Like a hydraulic jack a hydraulic clutch can give you a lot of leverage.

the more I think it is safe to say all later models do not have a heater control valve.

It is actually almost hard to put it backwards though.

interference. The timeing belt would be what you should worry about. You have an engine that is not rumored to have a head gasket problem so be thankful. Do make sure your belt is changed at the proper interval.

take off a heater hose and check for flow. If the return hose has a good flow the heater core is not clogged. If you have little flow out of the heater return pull the heater inlet hose. If you have little flow to that you may have a bad water pump. Is your thermostat OK?

I would buy from them. Far more knowledeable than my own dealer.