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I think you may have to clear the codes. I cleared mine and it has stayed out, but perhaps it would have cleared eventually. Anybody know for sure?

and you are under the 100,000 get the goop in quickly. This would mean that you have met your obligation for the extended warranty. They did pay for my head gasket job after all. I was out of warranty at the time too. Actually I never really had a Subaru warrnty as I bought the thing with about 85,000 on it.

I was going through so much water that my converter cooled below its threshold. Just for proper maintence I have ordered new sensors from Jamie but my code has not returned. Thanks for the replies folks.

is going to occur in our engines. At this point Subaru have found materials that resist the movement in the combustion chamber area enough to seal the combustion gasses at the low cyl pressures we use. In the last round of head gaskets for the 2.5 phase 2 they think they have found a compound of sealer that resists the shrinkage at low temps that was causeing the coolant leakage to the exterior. The goop is to fix all the ones that that don't have the new gaskets or the new gaskets might not work for. This is a bandaid fix at best.

it was from someone applying Bar's leak for a radiator hole that was way too big to cure anyway. When removing the radiator tanks you could see that it had clogged the tubes. This stuff mixes with the water and is supposed to keep in circulation until there is a leak. Guess what, your antifreeze already has a small amount of stopleak in it. We are upping the level of the stop leak enough to cure a potential head gasket leak. It would seem that over the years that this does have to coat the inside of the block, radiator and heater core. I am betting that this will be at such a low level that it won't affect the car. It seems to me that the biggest possible failure in this no sealing surface wonder is the head gasket, and the stop leak will be benificial in the end. After all one of the most common heater problems is a pinhole leak and this is likely to help seal that too. The real cure is to redesign the block which I hear they have done for the turbo models. I would love to see it tried on an already leaking engine.

But I figure it's good insurance. The real problem is the oerbored block and the open deck. http://www.cgperformance.com/subaru_block.htm These guys figure the same thing I do about it and they are making big power with this closed deck.

The transmission is usually fairly tough on these. It may not be helping that this is your first manual but I don't think its all your fault. 1 The shuddering is usually the clutch if it is on take off. The stock clutch was not good around your build date.There is an updated clutch available. 2 Going into first hard is often clutch linkage and the hydraulics on yours should be about due.There is also a TSB on the hydraulic system on your car. 3 Transmission oil can have an effect both on noise and shifting ease. 4 I think you need to go to an actual experienced Subaru guy for service. 5 I think a used tranny and clutch and linkage inspected by someone qualified are in order.

then change the oil. You must have gotten wear particles from the cam freezeing. If you are lucky that saved your bearings. If it is idleing and it has a problem it won't toss a rod through the block and you could still save it.

bushes and if it is on warranty let them fix it. Rock the car front and rear and try to find it that way. We used to spray rubber lube on the bushes to try to cure this. Odds are the smell is a small oil leak onto the exhaust.

Subaru has an additive for the cooling system that cures the tiny external head gasket leaks and the automatic was pretty good by that time. If it were up to me I'd say go for it. I have the L model and if I were to do it again I would get the rear disc brakes and seat warmers. Wifeling likes seat warmers and I think the rear drums are archaic.

as my personal savior. However I also changed the head gaskets because I am an Atheist.

made the only error I have ever seen her make by typeing dual ports instead of single. Otherwise my mind is getting even worse.I would swear I had seen discussion of the single port heads causeing more problems with carboning up and sticking valves.

if 96 to 99 are dual port exhaust what years are singel port. Recent ones only I mean? I may learn something yet today.

mostly bratwurst around here. You should have some good info if you just rebuilt your own 2.5.

keep exhaust temp up to burn cleaner for the cat. I also thought they switched over somewhere in 95, but even though I am an old codger I am new to subies.

Good luck Bear.

and you can get quite a bit of balance change brtween the clutch cover and fly wheel. Usually you are not going to be that far off on a car, but it can give a bit of vibration if everything comes up wrong. If you are really doing an engine right all moving components are balanced to work together. Used to cost me about $300 to have a hot rod engine balanced, probably more than that now.

I would try plastic cleaner. In the old days we used Acetone to clean plastic, but that leaves it sticky.Most auto shops have a plastic cleaner as well as Tap Plastics. My local Tap Plastics is a lot of help as the lady really knows plastic.

and hook it to a tube to a container. Then turn on the ignition. If it comeout its the filter. I agree one should not be able to screw up a fuel filter but I've seen it done. If it has a check valve (I don't know if Subies use this) it will only flow one way. I have seen fuel pumps installed backwads too that were pumping into the tank. I saw a London cab that came from the factory with the inlet and outlet hose reversed. Ran fine until the first two gallons were used up. I have seen a fuel pump wired backwards when the guy had to cut the wires to do it. All sorts of interesting things can be done to a pickup and hoses can collapse or kink. It would certainly be easier if we could see it.

web site for mechanics. Somebody just posted a link a day or two ago and if I was not computer incompetant I would. It may clear up your confusion. We are all pulling for you as that was a dismal chain of events.

water it will overheat. It did not really bother my car as long as I kept coolant in it. It bothered me though and I had the gaskets changed beofre Subaru came out with the goop. Let us know how the goop works on your leak. Now I have both gaskets and goop so I hope I'm covered.

This can happen when linkage is worn and the usual remedy is to go under the hood and put the selector in neutral. Some trannys have three parts that need to be lined up. The real fix is to find the worn bits in the linkage and replace them. This used to happen on old three on the tree cars and Ford commercil trucks I worked on. I have never see it in a Subie, but I am kind of new to the world of Subies..

I bought an Actron PocketScan. It says I have PO420 which seems to be catalyst below threshold bank 1. My guess at the moment is that means an ox sensor problem, but I will do a bit of research before I change anything. It was pouring rain when I got it which made me think a misfire. Thanks Frag and Gnu for your replies.

a lot of folks have had this and have some creative soloutions. The tires must be very close in circumfrence. Put a fuse in the front drive slot and see if it stops to be sure it's torque bind. As for whineing a fluid change stopped it on mine.

and they got the SOHC phase 2 in 2000. I keep confusing this because I have a phase 2 1999 Forester which got the SOHC phase 2 a year before the Outback and Legacy. If you have a choice buy a phase 2. At least you get a warranty until 100,000 miles and it does seem like Subaru has solved thier gasket problem. If you buy a Phase 1 I agree with the folks who say figure in a head gasket job or get a warranty.