cookie

If you live in the rust belt and deal with salt you worry about it rusting on or off. In Maine when I was a kid we worried about it freezing on. In SF it is a darn good thing to have and in flat San Mateo where I live you don't need it till you go to the city.

becuse the cam would not be able to lift the valve as high.

I have had a number of cars and trucks with a bit of wear on the linkage that would do this. Usually the cure is to replace bushings in the linkage but this looks like a misery in a Subaru. I would be careful of it and try to live with it until my next clutch job was due if possible. If it jammed again I would probably bite the bullet and go for it.

I've had better luck with BMWs than anything else myself. But since both my cars are 99s and I kept my last car (Mercedes) 17 years I might die first. It does seem to me that the X3 is aimed right at the Subaru developed market.

modern fuels have an additive package to remove water, prevent rust and keep the system clean. A quick Google ought to tell you more about fuel and additives than you want to know.

I use the emergency brake only when needed or on the hills of San Francisco. As long as you remember to release it very little wear is caused by using it, but over the years I have seen several cars, trucks, and busses that had the brakes shoes, drums, and even seals and bearings damaged by leaving it on. This is a very common problem and I am sure your dealer was trying to keep you from having it. Another reason not to let your fuel level go down is that all cars now have electric fuel pumps. Electric fuel pumps are cooled by the fuel and can easily overheat and be damaged by a low fuel event that the old mechanical pumps would laugh off. I use a quarter tank for empty and have little trouble with my pumps. My last Mercedes went though three fuel pumps in 300,000 miles which is about what I expect from these pumps.

I'll have to try that next time. Usually I empty the brake dust, change the shoes and go for it. I prefer to use new drums, but that's not always possible.

the only two I know are northern CA and Southern CA. I am in San Mateo.

those Rovers had one sender in the pan and one in the oil pressure galley. With a simple toggle switch the sender acted as the ground for either function. A nice way to go.

any brake can glaze and squeak. As long as you have lining left you are fine. At 40,000 it should be inspected to see if you have any left.

left on your brakes, and if your drums are scored. The good part might be that sometimes the rear brakes will squeal with plenty of lining left. If it were mine and I was going to look I would change the shoes and lube it as you have already done half the work jacking it up.

for a while on some cars. My 56 Jag XK140 had one, my 57 XK140, my 1984 Mercedes (it even announced when the windshield washer fluid was down which was needlessly scarey), my current BMW M Roadster, but not my Subie.

but for the last twenty years I have used voltmeters. If you are used to a voltmeter you can easily read battery and alternator condition and they take a half hour to install vs an hour and a half with an ammeter. Ammeters that have been improperly installed have been known to kill a car but I have never heard of a problem with a voltmeter. There is a reason my BMW came with a voltmeter not an ammeter.The last thing I saw come with an ammeter was my dad's 57 Chris Craft.

and would add seals, main and front, you will have the cam seals anyway. Since the engine has mechanical lifters this will be the time to adjust the valves. I would also do the water pump and tensioner but not everyone would agree with me here. If you did all this and closed it up my hope is that it will last as long as the rings with no major work. At least I hope this is true as I had all this work done to mine about 20,000 miles ago and the only problem I've had is that they failed to install a new $12 pilot bearing when they did the clutch. By the way it costs $570 to have a new one installed if theis is neglected. Don't ask me how I know.

My 99 Forester has drums and 40,000 miles would be ok for rear drums on a Forester. I would expect more from discs. Why don't you just pull a wheel and see what's going on?

Put a bolt and nut in the vise and try several torques with each. Should be within about 5% or so.

Subaru had a small problem with a sealer failing on phase 2s. this caused a usually small external leak. The sealer is just a stop leak product. I have had it in my 99 Forester with phase 2 for more than a year and I don't have any leaks, but who knows if I would have had one anyway?

if you are pumping it out with the brake pedal.

blinker relay to test. when they fail they often just light and don't blink. Warning, you may have caused the relay to fail with a short after the deer crash.

times on the other side of the road. Kiwi is a land of interesting cars for sure. At this point I might take my BMW M Roadster over there but one can get much better Subarus there in my opinion. But by the time I retire I might be hotrodding wheel chairs with Subaru WRX engines. The Islands sure have gotten expensive in the last 20 years. I have a number of friends who settled there but you almost had to buy a house in 1980. It should be a few years before Bush goes to war with New Zealand.

like MT says and then drained the radiator from the petcock. Then you had a space where you could add about a gallon of water. You slowly poured that in and then ran it until it had circulated.Then you tested to see the specific gravity (how far below zero it was good for). I have never used anything but tap water either, but MT and I are old guys from the last century. By the way MT i still have a house in Maine and a place in Auckland. When I retire I am headed to New Zealand.

This would give you the engine most of us would prefer with a three year warranty.

this is why race cars usually replumb. In reality often leaving the stock brake and changing pads and maybe rotors is best.

One for ech side.

and parking ability. If you live in a city and use it as your Home Depot car it takes things inside that you would need to put on the roof. I have to turn it around in my back yard to come out of my driveway frontwards. The Forester will just clear in two moves and a Legacy-Outback takes three. The Forester can get into a city parking spot the bigger ones cannot. Which car do I think drives best? The Legacy. My family has a few in New Zealand as well as some Outbacks (one brother in law has a car rental company in Queenstown). I have driven a number of Subies with the exception of the Outback Sport, and the Forester is big enough, drives well enough, and has enough power to satify me.