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I have heard that before when people were swapping engines and I just forgot. So what would be improved and fit? The new one from the 2.5? That one is working well in my Forester since I upgraded. The aftermarket makes a ton of clutchs for these things but these days I tend to stay away from hot rod stuff on my daily driver. The reason is that I was installing light weight fly wheels and the latest hot clutchs years ago and ran into stuff like rattling from the light flywheels and the heavy clutchs being too tough and breaking off throwout forks or being too much for the clutch linkage. People still run into these problems with hot rod stuff. When I can I like to run factory hot rod or upgrade parts that work together and are well proven. I don't have the energy that Josh and some of you other guys have anymore.

have bit of clearance there. You are correct if you think that the disc being thinner is bad. This was probably the equivalent of installing a worn out clutch. As long as there is no pressure on the fork when warm you are OK even if it is only 1/16 of an inch. You want a bit more if you can to compensate for later wear. If your car were mine I would try to fit the latest clutch Subaru offers that will fit. WRX?

finally someone has found a use for it!

within the last year or so seems to have some slap. You are lucky you got 60,000 out of it. 2.2s are definately better. My 2.5 slap has stayed just about the same for the last 20,000 miles, and at 105,000 or so sounds like it will slap on into infinity. At least you don't have to worry about your head gaskets like commuter so relax a bit.

down on silicon. But these days it's in everything. The only reason I don't use it on the BMW are that the seals are very expensive and convertible roof can leak easily if the seals dry out. Gummi expands them. Anything that will lube them will probably work and the silicon can help to keep the windows from freezing shut. If you are about to paint the car be very careful where you get the silicon as it can cause bubbles in paint and be hard to remove. I don't recomend WD40 becuse it really was designed to be a penetrant and doesn't stick around and lube long. We used to spray it on truck roller doors weekly which is more often that I want to bother.

found a defective tire. They have a tendency to put it on the balancer and if it is even it must be fine. This tire was out of round and drove me nuts at speed. As brues said you have to look for side to side play as in a bent wheel or bad lay up. I know you have checked pressure by now haven't you? That is the most common cause of pulling. I once found a pulling problem that was caused by two different widths of brand new tire that had just been insstalled by the tire dealer.

That means all the seals, wearing parts like clutchs, etc are tired. You did pretty good to get 15 years. Maybe you could have done a bit better with the filter but that would not have helped the seals. I got 15 years exactly out of a Mercedes 190E which is a taxi in most of the world and that was considered very tough. You should send a few bucks back to Subaru for how long it lasted.

A clutch must have enough free play to have no pressure at all when hot. Otherwise during expansion with heat it can partially disengage. I like about 3/8 of an inch as long as you still get complete disengagement. The new hydraulic ones do this for you. Since you don't really have a clutch in Subaru specs any more it may be a lot easier to experiment with clearance than change it again. I used to rebuild truck and bus clutches and you really have to get all components within a working spec or compensate with adjustments. There is a chance you have fried it already by running out of spec on clearance, and now you know why the cheapest is not always the best. After installing a number of clutches from rebuilders that did not last as well as a new one I stick to new only now. Live and learn.

and I get it from my BMW dealer. Around here in CA most auto parts stores sell thier own version. Just go in and ask them. The window mechanism that is metal should be lubricated with a good grease that stays put. Again most auto parts stores sell something that will do the job. The stuff I use is called white moly lube and seems to have a life of a few years before hardening. I also use the moly lube on all my hinges and locks, with the exception of the lock cylinders. For that I use a specialized lock lube available from lock smiths.

and I would start there. The fronts have a good size bar stock. You have a fair choice about where to buy usually. From junkyards to the dealer, to ebay to just typing in Subaru sped parts in Google. I checked with the board and dealer to see if it would fit and bought a WRX bar on ebay. Whiteline is supposed to have a good bit of Subaru speed parts and Jamie here on the board is a racer that sells Subaru parts. You might check with her.

On a ot of cars after four years or so the lube hardens in the window track and mechanism. I would lube the rubber with rubber lube and take the door panel off and clean and relube the tracks. You have to remove the panel anyway to replace the motor and one relubes the tracks for installation so you lose nothing if you try it. On most cars just lube fixes it.

I rather like how my Forester drove except for its behavior on the limit. It was no where as good as the legacy wagons I have driven. I added the heavier rear sway bar from the WRX and 15% stiffer KYB shocks and now it is pretty pleasant. The limit is the tires now and breakaway is very even front and rear. I found out later that the factory had tuned some with almost the same components. By chooseing the Outback you have a car that has been jacked up for ground clearance. If it were mine I would add swaybars first and see if that did enough for you. I just kept tuneing my Forester until I got what I wanted.

Gald this worked for you, you earned it!

Try running a search on this board. There are quite a few things on occaisonal no starts. If it were mine that temp sender would be out of there.

I would wonder about the temp sender. It is pretty cheap and is often at the bottom of a no start.

If it is a non interference 2.2 you can get by with a lot more than an interference engine. If that is what it is I would only change the tensioner if bad and the water pump if I could afford it, or it showed signs of looseness or leaking. The oil pump you only need to locktite the screws on it and buy the sealing O ring. An oil pump itself will usually last till a rebuild. I have a late 2.5 interference engine myself so I changed the water pump and tensioner so as not to need to go in for a long time. I also don't want cute little bent valves if a water pump or tensioner took out the timing belt. At the worst all the seals and the belt.

99 Forester. I had the gaskets changed before Subaru came out with adding the goop to fix it. It was very hard to see where the leak was as it evaporated as soon as you started the engine. The only symptom was the level went down a small amount. I check my cars every week so it never got down much. I would not even have suspected the head gasket and crawled under the car with a light to spot it if I had not heard about the possibility on this board. A loose clamp can do this too and be very hard to find until it finally stains around the clamp. Pressure testers are great for the clamps and hoses but the head gaskets tend to leak with temp changes so I doubt that it could be found that way. If this is a Subie dealer they should be quite familiar with where to look for a head gasket leak. I am now running with the latest head gaskets and Subaru's sealer in a belt and braces approach. The coolant level has not changed in a year, so far so good.

drained it they would have insurance for it. It might not be waranty but it might still be insured. You can bet that Jiffy Lubes have insurance. They need it to make up for thier lack of training.

Just found out today that I will be getting another reman auto trany from SOA. First one replaced at 41K due to delay engaging, apparently a known problem with the 00 Legacy. Replacement lasted 28K and started whining between 40-50 mph then making "knocking" sounds in park or neutral. Thank my lucky stars for extended warranty. __________________ This was from bruesbrother. This is the sort of interesting surprise that extended warrnties prevent. like all insurance they make money on it.

I used to park my Jeep at marinas and sail away for days. It was very common for vehicles left to be stolen or vandalized and they know how to defeat all the common systems. I made my own with a padlock hood lock, a cut off on the starter, and another cut off for the fuel pump if they got past that. My Jeep was such a pain that they tried and went on to somebody else. I tricked myself on this too though. It was also common to steal the trailer hitch so I drilled the thing and put in two sheet metal screws and then bondoed and painted over them. About ten years later I wanted to remove the hitch and was laying under the Jeep and wailing on the hitch with a sledge hammer when I remembered the screws. I imagine that hitch is still in there unless someone took a torch to it.

On my 99 Forester I had the clutch upgraded, the oil slinger replaced, the tensioner, water pump and all the seals done while it was apart. My hope is not to take it apart again for 90,000 miles.

if you do a search, and endwrench has a belt replacement article that is very good. Many of the owners on this board have done this themselves.

and you are rolling a four wheel drive system. Huge difference in coasting with my tiny BMW roadster and my Forrester. To be expected.

we don't want to upset the General now that he owns all that subie stock now do we?

warranties. For example I bought my Subie used from a private party and over a couple of years have put several thousand dollars into it. Maybe two thousand I would have expected. I owned a BMW with a four year extended warranty over the same period and put no unexpected dollars into it. Somebody with a 93 Legacy that works on it themselves would probably tell you it is a waste of money and costs as much as some cars. For busy middle class folks you may have made the right choice because you know pretty much what you are going to spend and can budget it.