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Unless you just want to change it for preventitive maintence. If it keeps the battery chanrged I would not worry about it at that level. My BMW has a volt meter and that's exactly where it runs. If you go much over that the battery will boil on a trip.

If you can get her a Toyota or a Honda. For inexpensive and reliable service its hard to beat a Corrolla. I love the early Legacy 2.2s but they are old cars now and it takes an enthusiast to run them. (This should get me some hate mail). I think the late Subarus are very reliable, but you probably don't need the 4wd there do you?

The tab that holds the brakelines being in a different spot.

with heavier components. You have to know how they work to swap them around though. I have used GM horn relays for a lot of uses, and for the big stuff I use a Ford starter relay. That may be a bit of overkill here. Usually if one goes out prematurely there is a reason, so that would be the first thing to find.

tailight circuit so that makes sense. Before I replaced the relay I would check to see if there is a short that killed it. $100 a pop is pretty expensive to be fooling around with. If you just jumped a power wire with a fuse in it to the tailight circuit you could see if any of the lights were dim. Dim usually equals a short or bad connection. Problems like that are often caused by amatuer attempts to hook up a trailer hitch light system for towing. Check for snap connectors in that area.

When oil is introduced in combustion it make the car ping more easily.

If I have the sunroof open my crossbars really moan. This is a Home Depot car so they have to stay though.

And I guess I would think that it might be because you eliminated an intermittant connection. Ground is so critical on modern cars as excess wire size and grounding straps have been eliminated to save weight and money. Even the batteries are smaller in many cases. If you live in a salt state your car may need all the gound help it can get.

I don't really recall on my Subie, but on BMWS the offset is different and the tires can rub the spring perch.

and San Mateo CA is a mild climate. It used to be much worse when I lived in Maine because at 20 below zero we would warm the cars up for quite a while to clear the windows, and then you had to get that cold oil and grease moving in all the bearings in the drivetrain.

stopped with the fender Twin Reverb and the Strat. When I rebuilt diesel injectors they were really big squirt guns (Detroit 671) that worked off a cam follower. I am glad somebody knows how the injection system works so there is somebody to ask what part to change! Good job guys.

asked you Blitz. If you find out let us know.

My car was out of warranty when I bought it. After checking the car out myself I found an external leak. I probably would not have spotted the leak except for advice from this board, I would have assumed a weeping hose or such as the leak was so small. I paid to have a head gasket job done and Subaru refunded the money when they did the goop campaign. Free goop too.

if there is a relay that would certainly be suspect too.

checked for power on both sides, and have checked your manual. The next thing I would do is pull the tailight bulb and see if I had power and ground back there. If I did not have power in the on position at the fuse I would move to the headlight switch and look for power there. A fuse or bulb is the most common, but I have enven seen someone who did not know you had to turn on his light switch to get power to his tailights. God knows how long he ran around on his running lights with no tail. This is why I say to check the manual.

and the new ones are a pain in the butt to get right. These days I just have somebody do it who does it every day. Since they are now a bonded structual part of the car they must be done correctly. That price is quite cheap. I seem to remember my last Mercedes being over $300.

everybody was smoking something that answer might have made sense. I am a bit mystified that nobody has the equipment to test a simple radiator cap. Perhaps you could buy a tester and open a franchise operation.

to check all common types. As far as doing it yourself all you need is to tap into the system somewhere.

but nearly every shop here that does cooling systems has a pressure tester that tests caps and cooling systems. The testing kits are actually fairly cheap now (I paid about $300 for my first one.) In some cases you can simulate the job with a bicycle pump. You have to put a tire valve somewhere in the system and if your bike pump has a gauge you just see where the cap relieves. I was testing a water manifold leak on my Pontiac the other day and was too cheap to buy a kit. I used a $.79 tire valve and drilled a hole in the cap. I pumped up the bike pump and it showed me the leak. Of course if you want to test the cap you might need to tap into a heater hose or such.

because it moves every time you hit the brake. If you have cruise control and it does not work it is often because of a broken or maladjusted brake light switch.

from a couple of things. Any vacumn leak can do it. EGR, brake booster, hose. I guess that's where I'd look first.

but I sure don't want to hear that my phase two wobble walls might eat a gasket. I am currently running the 03 and up gasket version which is supposed to be OK. Good luck Blitz, I hope it's something simple.

I'd be right over there ASAP. I got a new fuel pump and window mechanism for my BMW that way. So far Subaru has just given me head gasket in a can and paid me back for my earlier head gasket job. Recalls are great!

on the engine noise. If there is a gap in the timing belt cover area it may not hurt anything. All old cars need an exhaust eventually, but you may not need it now. I had two Mercedes mechanics tell me my engine needed a rebuild and when I tore it down the only thing I needed at that point was a cam and a couple of followers. Unless this was diagnosed by God I might prefer to check somewhere else.

but I got the KYB GR2s on advice from this board and I have been quite happy with them on two cars now. On the Forester I got a used rear sway bar from a WRX from Ebay. Folks are always tuning thier cars and selling the stock stuff, so you might check Ebay for what you are looking for. My sway bar was dirt cheap and works as well for me as a new one.