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are gas and you need to run a particulate trap to clean up a diesel for US standards. I am running 34 Diesels with traps at the moment on small vans. At US prices we don't save enough to justify a diesel. Places where Diesel is a lot cheaper have used them in autos for years. In New Zealand my brother in law dropped a Nissan into his Range Rover. It would take a complete redesign for the flat four to run a diesel, and now that Subaru partners with GM odds on it would use one of the Diesels they already have for corporate use. If gas became very expensive here diesels would be quickly available like they were in the last energy crisis. Last time Mercedes cleaned up and a few good JDM diesels made it here. GM made a rather lame attempt at a converted Olds gas engine. There are some very nice european diesels that have come a long way from taxis in driveability, power, and noise. Don't hold your breath for a Subaru diesel.

by going down to the dealer when I have some time and looking at the setup. If I need to be checking these I want to put it on my maintence schedule. I had been told they were hydraulic lifters. I just pulled all the wheels and inspected and lubed the brakes, removed the battery, filled it, and cleaned the connections, as well as a complete inspection. I'm going to put a couple of thousand miles on it on a trip next Saturday and want my best bet of no problems. Since my head gaskets were replaced less than 20,000 miles ago it should be fine.

which is what I have and I run it on the lowest test with no pinging. I'm in CA.

If I recall there is usually pressure going one way on these from the output line. You would have to feed it by an electric fuel pump to do this. Perhaps gravity would do the job if you had the filler higher than the pan. This why these forums are good since other folks think of possible problems with an idea.

Man I'm getting confused here. I thought Forester and Impreza got the phase 2 in 99 and everyone else got it in 2000. If he has a phase 1 he has mechanical lifters and should check the clearance. It does not move much but a worn valve can recede into the seat and cut clearance and burn. If you are correct and a larger resistor is necessary I may not have fixed my clock for long. Of course it did work for six years with the original solder so I guess I'll see what happens.

to the radiator and pick up from one container with the proper amount of fluid?You could run the other container to a recyling can.When I have done this to a car with a no drain plug pan myself I have pulled the pan, welded in a drainplug, and changed the internal filter. I've never actually flushed one as I have usually only done a few transmission services in the life of the car.

How much hp and how much torque for how much money? That seems fairly cheap and easy, but he would have to pay somebody to install it. Just guessing I would think 50 hp for a couple of grand installed might make him happy.

The hydraulic lifter can take up adjustment for the entire anticipated range of wear. You will only have a problem if you go out of spec on a rebuild. Go design another amp with the time you'll save. By the way did you see my post on the little rectangular resistor that came unsoldered in my Forester clock? I never saw one like that before, are they common now? Why do they seem to overheat and come unsoldered?

a large ring of keys. The car would die on the owner but not when he left one key for the mechanic. Worn ignition switchs are common and can be a pain. A bad ground or positive connection can do the same thing. If tapping the steering column seems to affect it you may have found it.

For the early 2.5 I have seen three gasket versions that look quite different. For the late SOHC 2.5 I am only sure of two versions and have heard rumors of a third. I am currently running the late 2.5 (post 2003) gaskets in my 1999 Forester with the additive just to be doubly sure.The post 2003 seem to be faultless but I have less than 20,000 miles on them and the additive would fix any leaks anyway.

And you usually set them when you assemble an engine and the lifter takes up the adjustment. Barring failure or improper assembly these are good until you rebuild. Somebody correct me if I am wrong about these.

you might want to look at trading for a more powerful car. When I was your age I hopped up everything which usually made the car burn more gas, be less reliable, and ruins the resale value. I was very mechanically inclined and enjoyed doing it. I think now that a more practical approach might be for you to trade for a newer turbo subie. Failing that pick up a Pennysaver. There are a few JDM engine places here in the Bay area. They can tell you want a JDM tubo and installation would cost. In the end I think you would come out financially better to trade. If you could do it yourself it might be a different story.

Every time I read about somebody else's problem I get it later myself. I came out yesterday and my clock was dead. I remember several folks discussing this and they solved by it by adding a resistor. I had power and ground to the clock so I figured this might be the problem. After dissasembling the clock I found what looked like a resistor that is flat and rectangular in the upper right by the face with a cold solder joint that was passing no voltage. The number on the component is 510. I think on some folks clocks this may have fallen right off. I resoldered both ends and it is working now. Do be careful of the little buttons that set the clock as if you pick the front up wrong while dissasembled they seperate into six little pieces that fall out. Don't ask me how I know.

replaced head gaskets. So Subaru did exactly what they said they would. The top leak has been in my car since a few days after the letter and has caused no problems.

last New Years I got the code in a rain that was fierce. Cleared it and no return. I think the rain cools the cat below the optimum temp.

I wash my BMW, my Subaru, and my running Pontiac with a product that combines soap with wax. The BMW gets washed about once a week with this stuff in the summer and most folks think it is new. The subie gets washed when it's dirty. I'm think of going to Mr. Clean auto dry.

with the old part before you fit the new one. I have pulled out totaled cars with the drive off method, but it is really had to control and way too easy to go too far. That's why I like hoists. You can pull a click at a time.

I'm just down in San Mateo and if we can work out a time to meet I will help you look at it.

The best way to pull without a lot of equipment is with a ratchet hoist. you may have to attach the car to something sturdy like a tree or solid phone pole with a chain or strap. Don't pull anything down. I have pulled a number of vehicle panels out with shade tree methods. Just be carefull.

If it is three wire one socket should have a hot wire that can either be on with the ignition or hot all the time. Then you should have a control wire from the light switch. This should be hot when the ignition and switch are on if it's like my car. The third socket should be ground. Relays can work a couple of other ways, but I think that should be how yours works. Why don't you just run a jumper wire to power your tailights with a fuse and switch till you have time to fix it? You could come right off the battery if need be. Too bad somebody is not near you as this really should be a piece of cake.

then it should not be the problem. A lot of folks have been having trouble with switching in larger bulbs with more draw. This tends to cause melted wires and blown fuses.

equipment that was stored without stabil. That old gas smells awful, won't burn and clogs up everything in the fuel system. We used to call that condition varnish. With modern fuel injection most of the time you just have to throw clogged componants away. In the old days you could rebuild carbs and fuel pumps but it was still ugly.

When you have the thing out where you can work on it and have tools like presses and drill press it is much easier.

in your signiture. It says you have JDM tailights. A couple of things are possble here. Perhaps you have more load on the circuit, or a wire shorted due to moving them around in installation. I still think something caused the relay to fail.

If you can get power to it a battery tender is great. I don't mean a big charger, just a tiny device designed to maintain a battery for long term storage.