bratbro

I got my axle, ecm, filters, fuel pump, EGR for the same price of a axle from other sites. Shipping is a rip also to return core they don't even provide you with a address to ship it to.

I'm working on a 81 Brat. Doing the front axle, rotors, calipers, ball joint. Everything is rusted on. I soaked every nut and bolt with pb blaster and a super penetrant for 7 days. I only did that because I tried heating the seized parts and they still didn't budge. I used a gear puller and tightened it up best I can with out forcing it. Every day I went to spray it I turned the puller till the hub and rotor with the rusted on washers came off. The first axle popped right out with a good whack of a sledge. I did use a pice of wood to protect the axle. On the drivers side I did the same thing except the axle wouldn't budge. Since I'm doing the ball joint any way. I pulled the pin on the axle, unbolted the strut from knuckle and took off the crown nut on the ball joint connected on the knuckle. Using ALOT of force pushed the ball joint out of the knuckle Then removed the axle and knuckle as one unit. Placed the knuckle in my vise and slowly tapped the axle out. Good luck hope this helps

I'm working on a 81 Brat. Doing the front axle, rotors, calipers, ball joint. Everything is rusted on. I soaked every nut and bolt with pb blaster and a super penetrant for 7 days. I only did that because I tried heating the seized parts and they still didn't budge. I used a gear puller and tightened it up best I can with out forcing it. Every day I went to spray it I turned the puller till the hub and rotor with the rusted on washers came off. The first axle popped right out with a good whack of a sledge. I did use a pice of wood to protect the axle. On the drivers side I did the same thing except the axle wouldn't budge. Since I'm doing the ball joint any way. I pulled the pin on the axle, unbolted the strut from knuckle and took off the crown nut on the ball joint connected on the knuckle. Using ALOT of force pushed the ball joint out of the knuckle Then removed the axle and knuckle as one unit. Placed the knuckle in my vise and slowly tapped the axle out. Good luck hope this helps

this is all that was left of the axel

no pin hole. aftermarket axel?

well i ended up unbolting the ball joint from the control arm and finally the steering knuckle came off. i thought it would be a easy task but it looks like i did it the hard way. now that i have it taken apart do i just pull the seals one at a time till i get the rest of the axle off? this axle dosent have a hole for the cotter pin. is that normal? Also any suggestions on how to put it back together? i been useing the shop book but nothing has worked. thats why i ended up doing this the hard way.

strut wouldn't move with out having a screw driver wedge in. but wont move past halfway point. tips?

The exhaust leak is going to be put off. Im going to the busted axle so hopefully soon it'll be drivable. Here's what I was facing. Never mind. Can't figure out how to add pictures from my phone.

Removed break calipers pb blsted steering knuckle getting ready to pull that and the busted CV joint out

Is it new from a store or new used? If it's never been installed you should not have to do a thing to it. It should be pre sealed. If used and has rust in it. Remove every thing from it and cover the holes with tape. I used meratic no acid (check my spelling) to get all the rust off inside but have been told apple cider vinegar works as well. If going with acid do it outside with plenty of air and have baking soda ready to neutralize the acid once you pour it out. (After doing it once I recommend just buying the kit) flush the tank with acetone. Then again with a clean can of acetone. Let dry then its ready for which ever tank liner you chose to buy.

Thanks! Looks like I'm getting a new tool then.

Was it a corded impact driver? I've soaked the castle nut for 4 days in pb and it still won't budge.

I would check all fuses and the connection. Then check your relays and wires for damage. Having a manual really helps there might be what your looking on the online manuals on the home page I believe.

Does the relay have marking on it? If it does you can use jumper wires to connect them then use a small battery to power the relay and you'll be able to hear it click. I did that on a Chevy I was working on.