nathan

put a small socket, about the same size or slightly smaller than the pin on one side and another with the inside diameter that is larger than the pin on the other side. Use a c clamp to press it out. Just like doing u joints on a driveline.

highly doubtful it's the oil pan. BTW the pan bolts are supposed to be very low torque setting, Leave them alone now since you already cranked them, but in the future overtightening oil pan and valve cover bolts will almost always cause leaks. As far as having a shop replace all seals just because, I think is a waste. Pull the belt covers and look really closely with a flashlight. You should be able to notice the area that has the most oil flung around it, most likely the crank seal. It is actually not that hard to replace timing belt/water pump and crank seal yourself and save some serious money.

after years of pulling door panels and ripping the plastic clips out I finally went to schucks auto parts store and bought a cheap universal door panel tool. It has all different tips to use for popping different connectors. Get one and make your life easy.

any possibility the fuel gauge is bad and you aren't using as much gas as you think?

turns out that subyroo and cookie kind of have it right. I started checking with driveline specialty places and they had the same idea. But somebody suggested the driveline and u joint angles. I hadn't even thought about it. The funny thing is that the vehicle had an engine swap and what happened was the new mounts changed the driveline geometry. The 2 piece shaft was not in a straight line at the center support, it was actually making a slight v shape instead of being linear. I took out the center mount and refabricated a new shorter one out of some thick steel and it actually worked no more vibration, the other advice was to get a driveline protractor so that the angles could be checked and made perfect(supposedly within 3 degrees of each other). Anyhow, thanks for everyones help, I thought I would let everyone know the culprit. BTW, this is supposedly a common problem for drivetrain swaps and in some instances, suspension lifts.

This isn't subaru related, but it is my only non subaru vehicle and I don't want to subcribe to other forums just for this problem, so please humor me, plus I know there are some mechanics here that are much better than me. I have a chevy truck that has a fairly substantial vibration which only occurs from barely moving to about 15mph. It does not occur when coasting at those speeds, ie. downhill, instead it only occurs under power. It also goes away, or is not noticeable as soon as the truck is above 15 mph. I have taken it to a tranny shop where they changed the ATF and put in all new tranny mounts, no change. I also had the entire driveline rebuilt, all new joints and carrier bearing(it is a 2 piece driveline supported in the middle by a rubber mounted carrier bearing) still no change. I have been able to see the driveline shaking, like it is out of alignment but I really don't think it is a balance problem because the vehicle is smooth at all other speeds. I have also checked to see if the tranny and transfer case are securely bolted down and that the output shaft is not wobbling at the junction of the transmission tail, as far as I can tell all is good. Does any body have any ideas where to go next?

My 2cents. The air system is tied to the speed sensor(drops over a certain speed). I don't know but there may be some way that you disabled something when you took out the air system that is connected to that speed sensor. I took out the air system in my legacy but only removed the shocks, switch, compressor assembly and solenoids, no computer stuff or other electrical connections. Try double checking. Did the AWD work before you did the swap, if so it is most likely the cause of the problem, if not then good luck.

Just as a side note. I Don't think firestone is the only one doing the incorrect oil changes. I usually change oil myself on all my vehicles but every once in a while my wife will take her car an have the oil changed. It has happened more than once that the oil is way above normal afterwards. I think what happens is that the techs think that the notch on the legacy dipstick is the correct fill mark instead of the upper line, so they just keep adding oil until it is to the wrong mark. I have never had it cause a problem but I do usually get the excess out as quickly as possible.

The last post is on the right track. It sounds like the ignition switch is going, with the mileage and if the car is driven short trip(ie. lots of starts) it would not be out of the picture for the ignition switch to be worn out. As far as temp. related, just grasping, it may be that the contacts shrink just slightly so they are barely not making contact.

I don't know much about the air system. That's why I converted. I you are interested I have 2 brand new front shocks and 2 good original rears and the whole compressor which works fine(turns on and pumps) the problem was that the car would get stuck all the way up and could not be lowered. I know it was probably just a solenoid on the dump side but I just bought the car and didn't want to mess with the system. If you are interested I would be willing to entertain offers on any or all parts.

I just got done doing my 93 legacy it is fairly easy. I ordered a black widow from etronics. It has all onboard relays for lights,horn honk, actuator and it comes with two remotes. For the unit and actuator and shipping to WA it was like $61. I bought another somewhere else for slightly less for my outback but it ended up having a horn honk instead of chirp and the remotes weren't as nice. Go with etronics and save yourself time searching for a better deal(I searched for hours and didn't find anything better with the same features). Putting it in took about 2 hours. I ended up not putting the wire through the door rubber tube I just popped holes through the grommets and fished a tape to pull the wire through the door body and the car body and just electrical taped the exposed part of the wire so it was black and would look like a clean install. As far as finding the horn wire and the parking lights just pull the cover under the steering column to expose all the ignition wire connections and disconnect each connector until you find the one that shuts off the item you are looking to determine correct wires for. Once you have the correct connector it is easy to scope the individual wires for the exact one to tap with a quick splice. I mounted the whole unit and wires all zip tied into a clean package on the metal plate just behind the pop out panel above the hood pop lever. As far as hooking the actuator up. There is a large cavity behing the arm rest that gives plenty of room for the actuator, just determine where the cavity falls by measuring and transferring to the door panel. All actuators comes with a connector to tie to the lock rod without having to cut anything. Just bend the supplied rod to give the most direct line of travel. I should have taken pics when I did this so I could post a how-to, but I didn't. Don't worry it is much easier than you would think.

If you have les schwab tire centers in oregon they have a pretty cool wheel simulator. You tell them your car, color etc. and it pops up a pic which you can change all wheel design/tire size and see what it looks like.

we had a legacy that did the same thing(turns out that the bumper was already repainted from an accident we didn't know about). Anyhow, I know body guys and they said that the subaru bumper paint problem usually isn't an issue unless it has been repainted, but just about no one in the auto body industry will guarantee a repaint on a subaru bumper because of something like the type of plastic/rubber that subaru uses is almost impossible to make a perfect paint bond. Hearing all of this we said forget it and bought a $60 bra from jc whitney which fit perfect and took care of the problem.

the ac hoses have o rings. It doesn't make sense that the oring could have been disturbed with hand pressure unless it was very loose and then it would have been leaking from the ac pressure. My guess is that you cracked the hose or metal fitting when you leaned on it. Get a new hose from junkyard and refill the system with on of those r134a systems you can get from the auto store, it's cheap and it works.

There is an inspection plug on the top passenger side of the trans to engine bellhousing. Remove the plug and use something long to wedge and hold the flywheel or torque converter(manual or auto) this will let you remove the bolt easily. Do the same when installing since the bolt needs to go somewhere around 130 ft lbs.

It is much much easier to just snip the flat piece of metal that holds the brake line in with some bolt cutters(much easier than trying to saw or grind and you won't accidentally cut anything) do it close to the left or right then bend the tab to give yourself enough clearance to slip out the brake line. do the same with the new shocks, slip the brake line back in and bolt everything back together. I know it seems a little radical to cut your new shocks but you shouldn't have to ever remove them so bending the cut piece will not fatigue the metal enough to cause a problem. You will also notice that the snipped piece does not affect how securely the brake line is held in place. Trust me and save yourself a bunch of time and hassle.

My brother is running 90/130 watts in his 92 legacy with no problem. They aren't the white color lights because a state patrol friend said they will pull over people with those because they know they are usually over legal wattage but have a much harder time telling if the regular colored bulbs are beyond legal. I beleive the highest you can legally put in is 55/60.

I have had 2 legacies with the same basic problem. Although i usually use the same strategy as others by keeping trip meter mileage I did find that when the tank gets down to true 1/4 or so it starts to read acurately again and when in reserve the fuel light comes on. so unless it really bothers you, you shouldn't have to worry about running out of gas.

I just did the air to coilover strut swap on my 93 legacy awd wagon. Now I have four good shocks and solenoids( two shocks are almost brand new with receipts). I am not sure about the condition of the rest of the system(compressor,control unit, switch). What I am curious about is how much this stuff might be worth and if there is some place that I might be able to sell it.

Are you sure the oil drops aren't actually grease. I had a cv joint boot crack and sling grease all over the same area you are talking about. As far as the losing oil it is very probable that you are just burning some oil in the engine. It isn't unusual to burn a slight amount over such a long period of time.

I did a search and couldn't find anyone that said what exactly is needed from a junkyard to do the swap. I am curious if conventional struts will bolt right in or is it necessary to swap anything on the a arms or shock towers. This is for a 93 legacy AWD wagon with current air ride malfunctioning. And no, I don't want to keep band-aiding the air system.

had a legacy that was doing the same thing. Replaced the O2 sensor, fixed the problem. I seem to recall the sensor being pricey though.

I have a 95 OB with 120k, new waterpump,seals,tires,brakes,wheel bearings,fully loaded with keyless entry, a few dings but in great shape and am trying to sell it for $5500 with very little response. So considering the miles you have I would say even less $ even though it is a 96

I had a whine in my 93 legacy that I swore was electrical. Turns out it was the water pump.

You need to get the check engine light codes checked. Since it's newer than a 95 it is OBDII. The testers are fairly expensive, so go to any service place and they can pull codes, probably less than $50. I have had this problem before, It is most likely your crankshaft position sensor. It is very easy to replace(one bolt, one electrical plug) and only costs about $30. The problem IS related to your engine light however.