swervey87gl

Am I just bieng a idiot, The more I think about it the more confused I get. Can someone do me a big favor and take a couple of pics of what they have done so I can just see it. I am totaly visual and I just cant picture what I am suposto do. I will send money for your time.:-\

Hell yea, especialy on gas tank filler screws.

I prefer the "breaking the bolt head, drilling, easy out" meathod.

Do you know how to tell if the ECM is good or not. Also you asked if it is out of a running car or not. No. It was out of a 88 that had 92k on it but the motor had water in the oil. Its out of a pull a part junkyard. Let me go over this Red, ignition relay, battery power (it already had b power so I didn't touch it) Red/blue, ignition relay, ignition power Black/white, ECM, #27, battery power Light green/yellow, ECM, #18, starter power only Two Black/white, fuel pump relay, ignition power Blue/white, fuel pump relay, positive on fuel pump Black/white, coil, ignition power Am I on the right track ? I snaged the wires from the FI harnes regarding the coil wireing for the tach and it looks like it was set up how you described. Is that true. One other thing I noticed is when I ran power manualy to the fuel pump to double check it. It shot fuel out the fuel line that runs along the frame rail. I thought that the fuel was suposto come out of the larger line just under the wiper motor. I would be easy to grab that harness but I feel so close to having it. I would like to figure it out now that I started it.

Is it the red and blue wire comming out of the ignition relay, ignition hot. Sorry for askin so many questions, I am totaly baffled and something not working frustrates me.

Does anybody have any pictures of wireing harness mods on this (EA82). Also for the coil and just general pictures that could help. I am a visual person and am confused with my project. If anybody is in the Seattle area and willing to help me I have lots of beer and pizza.

No we didn't, I dont have the car infront of me now so I couldn't test that yet. I will be around it in the next couple of days. Sorry there is two of us replying to questions it is my car and we were working together on it. I am getting all the adivce I can then I am going to try it all.

Well the car getting the swap is mine. I didin't have a chance to sign on last night to start this thread. I checked everything over and over. At first when it didn't start I had the ECM mounted up. There was no ground on the car when I pulled it off and the body is painted. So from the manufacturer it isn't grounded through the body. I had a prob with the fuel pump relay hookup. The wire that I ran back from the fuel pump and spliced into the blue and white never sent power to the fuel pump. Then I have no spark. I honestly don't know how to tests the things related. Then one other question that might relate to the no spark issue is the wire that needed battery power. On Hooking Everything UP #5 it is explained that the Red and blue wire that went into a large rectangle plug. Well I hook the wire up that was described and my dash lights stayed on after I took the key off. So I knew that wasnt the wire. Then in #12 the diagram it says the Red and blue wire hooks up to ignition wire. It is easy for me to get the whole dash out of the donor car, actually its just sitting there I have to grab it. My big question is that if I replace the whole dash wireing would that work. The instructions were good. I would be lost without them. The two wireing questions were the only main ones I had with the instructions. I am now sitting here hoping to find some answers, I don't know what to do next and my car is all tore apart. :-\ .

I got the rear discs. Ha ha and they are quite nice. I was with gunslinger. 3.7,3.9 either, or, it was LSD.

Pretty much all oil that is made is literaly rated for that long. Because of the contaminates the oil needs to be changed. There is no way to predict how oil will last with different so many different filters. All it is is just a sales pitch.

Yes 3.9.

Money makes the world goes round. Cutting springs are not a good idea. Do it right or don't do it all all. Thats just my theory on everything.

Its not really that big of deal. It is not half a$$ to drill a hole in your door. If you take it to a high end stereo shop they will do the same. I personaly would sudjest using J clips. They are ment to be used over and over. The self tappin srews will not hold if you take them out a couple of times. Like if for any reason you have to take out your speakers.

well mabye you will find me in a mud hole someday

I don't know where davenport is. I am 20 mi north of Seattle.

Consider it done. Goodie now i get to hog out my fender wells.

Is there any other rims that fit on the subie besides the Pugeot rims. They are hard to find. And I am too cheep to buy new ones. What about having them machined in a new bolt pattern.

All stereo shops have a little pocket that fits behind door speakers. They are cheep and weather proof. They act as if the speakers are in a mini box instead of using the whole door as a box. Your mid bass will be tighter and cleaner.

Here it is actualy Check this out: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum...ead.php?t=28620

There is a detailed carb to efi post. Go to the sight hush777 has. I just checked it out, looks simple.

Retrace your steps. Just about all my wireing problems have been a simple problem in a hard spot. Follow the wires and make sure that they all go to what they belong to. When you break it down what goes where one at a time its not such a mess in your head.

Looks like you get to do some trial and error. No multi meter or test like you can make a cheesy test light out of a 1156 bulb. One wire to the contact in the center and the other to the outside. Alot of tape, aligator clips or nails and you got a half a$$ test light. Megyver babie. Just a thought those wire colors might be constant throughout the car. You might be able to figure it out faster.

I agree with colorado.. Except he forgot about the stick welder

If you have tears in the boots of the CVJ they should be replaced clunking or not. Cause they will be clunking soon.

Thank you, that is what I needed. Bravo hush777 good manual. I think alot of people will be doing that converson soon.