whynot

I did the rods mains and rings on my dodge neon. Nothing except changing them as I was replacing the head gasket at 135000 miles. They were cheap. Just dropped the pan and did it all right there in the car. I have never done anything except valve cover gaskets to this engine. I can not just split the case, replace the bearings and bolt it back together like I did the neon? If not, then I gues I will just do the head gasket and maybe rings. This car has a little over 200K on it.

The radio in my truck only was able to pair with a limited number of devices. You may have to remove one of the other devices so there is room for it to pair? I do not know if the factory Subaru radio is like this or not?

So my car that was in an accident has bad HG on it, it drove fine but would get hot enough to turn off the ac at 80mph, in 90F temps. So I could pull that one and put it in, the car was in a front end hit, that smashed the radiator to the front of the engine. The pulley above the left cam pulley is broekn, but I may have done that when I tried to pry the front of the car away from the engine. I turned the car over before that, it was slow but turned over, so I thought it was due to the drag from the radiator. I did not try after I found the broke pulley and the timing belt off. But I should be able to tell when I remove the head if there is a bent valve or anything correct? I am leaning to using this engine that I know the history of, as opposed to the unknown one. Why do so few split the block and do main and rod bearings? is it difficult to get correct? Thanks

Thanks, This one needs HG bad, it is steaming out the tail pipe, and the water in the radiator is boiling so to speak, and a salvaged title, but the car looks good and drives good, so I will do the HG, it is 198K any reason to do rings and bearings while it is out of the car? Anything else I should look at? it is an automatic. Thanks again.

Found one that he said needed a rear diff, but not sure that was the issue. The guy would not go below 650. The one that needs HG was 500. They are getting hard to find here, maybe it is the time of year.

Thanks, Yes I was asking about the diff. I was thinking of getting a car that had a bad diff, or something else wrong in the rear drive, but would run Front drive fine. I decided to go with one that needs head gaskets instead. Thanks

are all of the subaru leagcy outback wagons in the 96-99 models the same gear ratio? Can I just swap a rear diff with another one? or do I have to find a specific one, and how do I tell? Trying to find a care to rebuild using parts from my wrecked 99 Thanks

So I have the space to do this. How many miles will these cars usually run. If I get one with 200-220K on the odometer, is it worth the investment? or will it die by 250K? there are a lot of them around, but this wrecked one was my first experience with a subaru

It depends on the settlement from the ins. co. but I was thinking of getting a running car, and a fixer upper, and getting the car that was wrecked back and making 2 good cars, and some parts left over, My daughter liked the car, and I have another child who will need a car as her neon is on it's last legs.So I was thinking if it is worth it, or not? with all of the work, or do I get one car, and not have to work on it nd let the wrecked car go to the great beyond?

Is there a list anywhere of what parts are compatible with other years? Long story short. My beloved 99 legacy outback wagon, 30th anniversary edition, has been wrecked. Will have to call the insurance tomorrow. The other person was at fault, but the car is totaled. but front end, and I think the engine ma be ok, will know more when I go look at it tomorrow. I am thinking about buying another car, but curious what years I should look for, and be able to use these parts? it has the 2.5:L auto. The other options are to move on to something else. or move on and not worry about all of the good parts I have put into this car. Thanks Doug

on my 99 outback it was above the gas pedal.

I know that Discount tire, with their "certificates" will prorate out the remaining good tires on a mileage basis, and replace the damaged one. Worth asking at the tire shop you do business with if they will work with you on a new set.

This car had issues when I got it, and I have worked through them, thanks to all of you here. Now it sounds like if I do the head gaskets, and change the radiator I should be ok? At 204K is there anything else I should do when I pull it to do this? This will have to wait until fall/winter, but the car does not have any issues running around town.

The coolant was replaced before I bought the car, along with some other work that was done. I like the car, it has 204K on it right now. I do not mind putting the work into the car, if in the end the car will be able to do this without any issues. I can turn the AC off to climb a short hill, but then the car is warm enough that the AC will not come back on until I coast some in neutral to bring the temp back down, just running 70 on the flats took forever for the car to cool back down. The fans work, and seem to move a good amount of air, and at 70-80 would they even matter with the amount of air through the radiator just from going down the road?

so what I am getting from this, is that this car, even if I have it running in near perfect condition, will not do this trip without issues. And I should look for something else, and just use the car around town? I make this trip 4-6 times per year, and no AC is not an option, and 55 mph will probably get me killed on the freeway. and moving kids back and forth is what the trip is for. Was hoping that this car would do this at a more economical cost.

sorry about the double post. please delete this one.

one thing I would do is shift to neutral for about 8 seconds on a downgrade, and that would drop the needle on the temp gauge about 3 lines, then I went back into drive, so would this tell me the radiator is ok?

I just returned from a 2000 mile trip moving my daughter ack from college. Not real happy with the car, I have some questions 1. Will this car run 80-90 MPH in 100F heat with the ac on and a load? Mine will not. am I expecting too much for this 1999 2.5? I was in the mountains of utah and idaho. the temp gauge got way up a couple of times, but I did not overheat the car 2.when the car temp gets a little over mid temp the AC shuts off, is this normal? or is there something that is wrong with the AC, it turns back on when the temp drops again, and blows cold. 3. I used about 1/2 ot the overflow bottle of coolant, and 1 quart of 10w40 motor oil on this trip. The oil I think is ok, the coolant concerns me, could this be related to the heating problem? There is now a small sound coming from the exhaust, So maybe a valve issue now? I got the car for 500, I have put about 1K into it including tires, It has a salvaged title which does not other me as I usually drive cars until they die, but this is my first ever subaru. Is it worth fixing the rest of the way? and what am I possibly looking at to do that? Thanks Doug

I just returned from a 2000 mile trip moving my daughter ack from college. Not real happy with the car, I have some questions 1. Will this car run 80-90 MPH in 100F heat with the ac on and a load? Mine will not. am I expecting too much for this 1999 2.5? I was in the mountains of utah and idaho. the temp gauge got way up a couple of times, but I did not overheat the car 2.when the car temp gets a little over mid temp the AC shuts off, is this normal? or is there something that is wrong with the AC, it turns back on when the temp drops again, and blows cold. 3. I used about 1/2 ot the overflow bottle of coolant, and 1 quart of 10w40 motor oil on this trip. The oil I think is ok, the coolant concerns me, could this be related to the heating problem? There is now a small sound coming from the exhaust, So maybe a valve issue now? I got the car for 500, I have put about 1K into it including tires, It has a salvaged title which does not other me as I usually drive cars until they die, but this is my first ever subaru. Is it worth fixing the rest of the way? and what am I possibly looking at to do that? Thanks Doug

I have the same problem. So I will follow this. I can hear my "box" set when using the set lever, So I think the brake switch is ok on mine. But it will not control speed. Can I pull vac on the actuator with a brake bleeding kit and should the cable move? Do not mean to hijack, just the same issue here.

got it, there was a piece of one of the plastic holders down in the actuator.

I got the panel off, the lever is moving down to the stop. I removed it from the handle to make sure. Still will not open. it is moving, but will not release the latch. I can not see the back side to see what is not moving.

I tried that, I can feel the lock disengage, but still can not get the handle to press all of the way so the hatch opens. Any other ideas?

So today I went to open the back door, the hatchback. and it will not open.I can hearthe electric lock, and even the key feels like it is moving something. But I can not get the hatch open. Any ideas?

on the last few used cars I have purchased, I have ran it on a blend or synthetic for a couple of oil changes then back to dino oil and just change it often. They synthetic seems to clean the gunk out of the engine quicker than the dino. I do not know if the high mileage oils are worth the extra money or not, I have a few leaking seals and put the last oil change was to high mileage oil to see if it will help. not sure. That car a ford expedition has 245K on it, we have had it since 60K and just normal oil changes at 5-6K it is still running 5-20 oil. Keep it fill, keep it clean.