whynot

so I can take the head back off, and use the same gasket again? never done that before, always had to change them. Just making sure. If I can then I will do that. Also how big of a slot in the bolt. I have a cut off tool, and a 4" hand grinder, Thanks again.

so I have this one bolted down do I have to replace it? can I just remove the bolt, (center intake side) and chase it and install it again. or just leave it. What dealer are you using? the one in Vancouver Washington wants 80.99 each. i got to find a better dealer. maybe I can get them at a different dealer and return them to this one? Here are the surfaces before bolting it together. I do have a spare bolt, so I will see if I can slot it and chase the other side.

maybe, but the engine is out already. I started changing the head gaskets. Subaru gaskets are $81 each. and not even gold plated. but i got those, last time it was fel-pro. What causes a head bolt to creak when finishing the tightening procedure? the last 90. yes i used motor oil on the bolts.

all the plugs look ok and the same. I think i will do the machine work following GD's system with glass and paper and see if it shows anything.

sorry, it made sense in my head. as much as anything does... Yes you are correct. the engine from the wrecked car that i planned on using will not turn over all the way, so something is bent in it. So I went back to the engine that has the blown head gasket. which I have repaired before. I was trying to find a way to only do the bead head gasket, but I do not know which one it is. It is blowing water out of the radiator, so I thought if i did a leak down test, that it should leak into the coolant. but It does not do that. I guess I am just going to do them both again. last time i did not know i needed to have them machined, so I will do that this time. probably at home. i am really trying to keep the cost down, i have spent way more than I thought i would. sorry i was so confusing.

99 outback wagon. I bought it with bad head gaskets, blowing water out of the radiator. Changed the gaskets, and ran ok, but always worried me it was not quite right. recently did the same thing to me. I have a wrecked car, so moved all the components over to the engine, and it will not turn all the way over, so something in it is bent. Now I have this engine out of the car, on a stand. the leak down test does not put air in the cooling system. I get about 40 psi on all the cyl. using a ratchet. I have no idea what is up. maybe only leaking when hot? if so is it a cracked head? how do I tell. I really am at the point I feel like I am throwing good money after bad. trying to decide if I should replace both again, or just junk the car and move on. all advice and tips welcome. Thanks

great I was a little confused, so I asked. Thanks

so are you saying that I can use a 642 or 670 on a 99 outback with a 2.5L?

No, I was just driving around and the back tires just blew right up...

every time I have had a cat cause issues, the car has always lacked power because the exhaust an not get out. The worst mileage change I ever had was due to a bad vacuum hose on the map sensor giving the computer bad readings. Trimmed the end, and back to normal. Took that car to 4 places and not one of them could fix it, until I found one of those hidden gems... (these were not subaru cars) I also think 160K for a cat is a short life time. All the failures I had were in the high 200-low 300K Find the cause of the MPG loss, and go from there.

What all is included in the piston swap? how bad is the car damaged? sent pm

Ok, the head gaskets I replaced, and was never sure they sealed properly, have failed again. Same as when O bought the car. So I am going to do it again, but this time get the heads done. Anyone know of a shop in Vancouver WA that has experience and good results with these DOHC 2.5 heads? Thanks Car is a 99 with an ej25d

I have two the these cars, same year. The one that the dinger works in, programmed just fine, this one will not. Since the programming sequence has to do with the key cycle, if the car does not know that the key is in the car then it will not program, that is my assumption. I have not removed the covers on the steering wheel, but I have not found any cut wires at this point. If it is not the same switch that causes the dinger to work, why can I remove the key with the car in drive? key does have to be in the correct position. This all started just trying to program a key fob for these cars.

If the key dinger is just unplugged, will that also stop me from removing the key if not in park? is the dinger part of the instrument cluster on this car?

doing some searching, I found that if this was an issue, and the wire to the switch was cut, that the key can be removed when not in park, anyone know if this is true? this also applies to this car. Also can just the switch be changed, or is it part of the lock assembly?

has your fuel mileage changed, if you track it. That could point to an over fuel issue, clogging the cat, then clogging the other one. any way to loosen the manifold before the cat and see if the issue improves, pointing to another clogged cat?

will a filter wrench fit over it, one of the cap kind, and allow you to get a breaker bar on it? https://www.autozone.com/shop-and-garage-tools/oil-filter-wrench/oem-oil-filter-cap-wrench-for-most-toyota/978119_0_0

Is it possible to move this box to the car that I can get to program, and program it and move it back? I will check the buzzer, but I believe it is the switch becasue if it was just a buzzer I should be able to program the new remote?

99 legacy outback, When I leave the key in the car there is no buzzer. The light on the dash for the door works, so the car knows the door is open. How do i fix this? hopefully not replace the key tumbler. I would like to fix it, because I got a key fob, and can not program it. I assume that is because the car does not know that the key is in the car, on my other 99 that the key buzzer works in the programming went without issues. Thanks Doug

I could not find anything obviously wrong with this. The window is in the track, and looks like it is moving fine, I also could not find a box above the fuse box or the hood release for the window control box. Found some relays there, but no control box. did not see a box in the wiring diagram but I am new to those for a subaru.

I replaced the cap, and fixed the tube in the overflow, so far it has not pulled the vacuum on the radiator, but the coolant level is still not to the top. but some of it seems to be returning from the tank. I will give it a few days and see how it goes. I do not see any other symptoms of a HG leak. No bubbles, no drips no white exhaust or milky oil. Compression even and good, and radiator holds pressure. any other test, or is it just a waiting and monitoring game at this point? Thanks for all the help

I only used sandpaper on the head. I did not take it to a machine shop. and used new bolts.

great ideas, thanks I will try and give answers to all the reply's, I bought the car with bad HG, so I do not know how bad it was overheated. I used felpro gaskets, which have a good rep outside the subaru world. (I have since learned that many parts with good reputations in the other markets do not have a good reputation in the subaru world) I did have one small overheat issue after the head gaskets that caused me to do the compression test and the radiator pressure test. found compression good and even. Found a coolant leak at a loose clamp. And no loss of coolant after that. Then the Radiator broke, and was changed with a new one, and a new cap. (replaced the cap when I did the HG) I will try and find the old one, or get a different brand tomorrow. I do have the hose zip tied to the radiator. and I will check, I do not think it is cut at an angle in the bottom of the tank. I will fix that.

the bad radiator had the connector for the upper radiator hose fall off. I did the head gaskets, have good even psi on all cyl. also did a radiator leak down test and it held 17psi for 30 min. so that is why I ruled out head gaskets again. and why would bad head gaskets cause a couple of cups to come out to the overflow tank, and not get sucked back in, never any more, and create a vacuum on the radiator. and after a week of driving like this, I can pump from the overflow tank back into the radiator by hand, and it is back to full Just trying to understand all of this. Thanks

99 legacy wagon with a 2.5L. I replaced the broken radiator, and also the radiator cap. the car sends water to the overflow bottle, but does not suck it back in. Today before leaving work, i pulled the radiator cap, and was surprised to find the radiator under a vacuum, so much so that the upper radiator hose has lost some if it's round shape; So the radiator and cap are from o'rileys auto parts, both murray brand I believe.I what do I look for? I will see if I can find the old cap and try it. Just not sure what to look for on this issue.short of just changing parts