Tolerance02

By the newest systems even the feul gauge in the dash shows the LPG level in the tank when driving on LPG and the gasoline level when driving on gasoline. Urban.

Less power with LPG is history. It's one more reason to opt for LPG injection. There is made a lot of progress in developement from LPG techniques in the past years. The newest system is liquid injection (no longer vaporised). The engine stars on gasoline and after seconds each cylinder, one by one, switches over to LPG injection. The driver does'nt feel the difference. Urban.

For injection engine i should recomment a LPG injection system. It is more expencive but the ignition system by EJ20 makes that there is always 1 ignition in a open cylinder. This causes heavy backfire (if used the common LPG system connected to the trottle housing) in certain circumstances which will damage the air filter housing and air flow sensor. Also, by using LPG injection system the engine will always start on gas and after running a few seconds automaticly switch over to LPG. So the gas system (pump, injectors) will not dry out and still intact. Succes! Urban.

Lot of carburated Legacy's here with 1.6 and 1.8 liter engines. Belive it or not, they are the best Legacy's to convert to LPG. Convertion is very simple to. No problems at all, 300000 miles is no exeption.

I'd suggest, jack up the car and see if there is free play on the front wheels. The nut on the end of the drive shaft may be lose or even the lower ball joint may be worn.

It's located near the coolant temp sensor you already replaced. Under the intake manifold on the right (passengers LHD) side. Two small rubber hoses and a two wire plug are connected to it. One of those hoses comes from the top of the trottle housing. Just a thought, mabe one of the hoses or a wire was broken while you replaced the coolant sensor? Urban.

I think it's good to tell (before it's to late) how dangerous it is to connect or disconnect clamps on a battery. I always blow over the top of a battery befor i connect the clamps/cables because it's always possible there are gases and they are unvisible.. No need for press air, simply by mouth. Urban.

To GeneralDisorder. Sorry but it hurts me when you say Justy engines are crap. I've sold and maintained a lot of Justy's from '84, when they came on the marked here, untill today and must say they are very reliable. One of them has over 200k miles (320,000km) and still running every day. Just had two with cracked heads. Urban.

I fully agree (other) Skip, but there is no reason to test, flush and/or coolant change if there is a crack. Dose it? And i know the radiators from Legacy of that building years ('90-'91) do crack there. I'd be surprised if thisone should not be.

'91 and the original radiator? Take a close look to the front side of the right plastic cap. Across the upper hose connection. I bet there is a vertical crack leaking coolant. Fill up with water and let the engine warm up and you will see. Urban.

I rebuilded a lot of Legacy 1.6 and 1.8 FWD 5sp. man. tranny's with the compleet interior (gears and diff.) from the 1.6 Leone models builded from '85 and after. 1.8 also fit but those ratios are more different. To bad, the gear box dosen't fit to the engine from Legacy, but the interior is exact the same, there is just a little difference in gear ratios, but that difference is a neligible factor. Just take the whole old stuff out, putt the other in and close the box. The 4wd gear boxes are more reliable so i don't have experiance with them but i think they also fit from the older models. Urban.

If the fork is broken there, it's mostly because it's to hard to push in the clutch plate (dust and dirt between the mechanism). I'd suggest to remove the clutch and clean out the plate before reinstall the other gear box to prevent the new fork will brake to. Urban.

The O ring where the oil filler pipe is mounted to the left valve cover also leaks frequently. Just two bolts to remove. Urban.

The castel nut from the driveshaft by those Subaru's always should be retorqued few weeks after a removal. Because of the cotter pin one should think she can't kome lose and in fact she dozen't, but the shaft will move while driving, searching his correct position. Also pay attention to the outer washer, the one that's just behind the nut. Take a close look and you'll see it is a little 'cup' formed, the hollow side must be toward the hub. It's because of a loose nut the splines get worned out. A loose nut gives a whining noise by very low speed or while braking. Luck!! Urban.

Did you check out if there isn't one driveshaft that turns? Just a tought. Because of the differential if one shaft can turn the car want move. Urban.

Correct Dave. By testdriving (swerving left and right) it can happen that the wheelbearing on the unloaded side makes noise and that the noise stops when turning the other direction. That is what makes it so difficult. The best thing is to wait until the noise gets strong enough so it can be heared when the car is jacked up and the wheels are turned by hand. Urban.

Inside the clutch housing, about halfway the fork lenght she is supported (as you know, the fork is a lever). Maybe she is worn out there. If you can look trough the rubber boot you should pay attention to that point to. It happens that the head of the supporting bolt go's trough the fork there or that the fork is plied. Urban.

Great!!!

The pedal should be pulled up by the pressure plate. Did you adjust the 'new' cable correctly? Did you compare the length of the new with the old cable? Now the old cable is removed, does it look bad? It must be possible to pull the pedal in his upper position by pulling the end of the cable where it's connected to the fork under the hood. The free play you became now on the cable must be reduced by the adjusting nut untill the pedal still in the right position. If the clutch (disc and plate) are OK it should work now. If they are the cause it will be impossible to press the pedal down unless you brake the cable. Urban.

This is the 'terror' for all mecanics. First of all, to find out for sure the noise must be strong enough. If it are the bearings, the noise will be there turning the steering wheel in one direction and will disappear in the other. Urban.

If the tensioner is bad the 'piston' can be pushed in by hand easy. There is no pump up, it works independant almost like a strut. There is a coil spring inside the cylinder that pushes the tensioner roller toward the belt, a system inside with oil and very small canals and/or valves makes that it kan' not be pushed back in a short time. In the original parts catalog this cylider formed peace mounted with two bolts is actually called 'adjuster' the roller is called 'tensioner'. I only once had a bad adjuster, it leacked oil and could be pushed in by hand about 1/4 inch. Nothing wrong, only a short rattle by cold start in the morning.

One more thing. Did you pay attention to the cam pullys? There is a difference between left and right. They are markt with L resp. R. The left one hase cams on the back for the cam censor by some Legacy's. Urban.

If the stripes on the belt are lined up with the marks on the pully's and the belt is placed in the right direction the timin must be correct. A small difference like 1/2 tooth is always possible but is no problem. It happens that, after a longer time of inactivity, the engine cranks as if there is no compression. I guess this is because of low oil pressure in the hydrolic lifters. In that case you need a very strong battery or a good jump starter (donor car) so the engine can crank long anough to fill up the lifters. While starting you kan hear the cranking sound change while the cylinders one by one are making compression. Just a tought. Urban.

The STD's here in BeNeLux had 1.3 cc engines, with 4 speed man.trans. Singel pair of round headlights, no clock, no RV mirror on the right, no colored windows, no trunk opener, no make up mirror, no day/night position on the inside rv mirror, plastic seat covers and flor mat. Urban.

12 o' clock is OK. There is a notch in the edge of the oil pump houseng just under te crank sensor. But you don't need them. Your new belt should have 3 stripes, one for each pully mark. The stripe for the crank gear are dots, the other two are full stripes in yellow color. Place the belt in the right direction (clockwise when facing the engine from the front, there are arrows) and make the stripes match with the marks on each pully. I always use small vise grips to keep them in place on the campullys. Once the belt is mounted and the tensioner is released turn the crankshaft to his point (marks at 12 o'clock). Both camshaft marks must be correct now. There may be a small difference but never a whole tooth. If you turn the crankshaft 2 revs now the stripes on the belt are no more in the right position, this is normal, but the 3 pully marks mustbe on there marks. Urban.