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mattri

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Everything posted by mattri

  1. 87 loyale non turbo has new plugs cap/rotor will start and idle but doesn't want to rev. Any ideas? Will get some some more info and post with it later. Thanks, Matt.
  2. Thanks for the replies. Good catch on the 'both diffs' gaff been playing with fords too long spaced the transaxle. What's the plug of choice for the EA82? NGK and Bosch seep popular but have heard the platinum 4's burn too hot any truth to this?
  3. 92 Loyale wagon 5spd 4wd with 180k. Want this thing to last forever. What else to do to keep it on the road? Will do cam belts, oil pump and water pump next weekend. Also standard tune-up, plugs cap rotor etc. Change fluids in trans and both diffs. Anything else to help longevity? Thanks, Matt.
  4. Thanks to all for the replies. Like I said I've owned a number of loyale/gl's and love the package. Never owned a legacy, maybe I'll have to look into it.
  5. Looking at a 91 Loyale wagon, 4wd 5spd 170k. Car is in really good shape, body and interior very clean, runs and drives well, 4wd works. No leaks, no smoke etc. PO agrees to having timing belts, water and oil pump replaced prior to sale for a total of$2500. I've owned a lot of these old subies and love them, they're getting harder to find in decent shape. Any thoughts/opinions welcome, Matt.
  6. How dificult is it to swap out an auto tranny for a 5spd in a 92 legacy, 2wd. Seems like it should be pretty simple, pull the flywhel, clutch pedal and linkage from the donor car, shifter rump roast and boot, transmission itself, anything else? Are the speedo's the same? Do the axle shafts mate the same? Anyone done this before, any and all ideas welcome, Matt.
  7. Just picked up a 93 loyale wagon 4wd wagon with only 70k. I've been looking for this car for a while, its in great shape and I plan to keep it for a long time. I'm going to replace the cam belts oil and water pump. Also do the token oil-tranny-diff-changes and plugs cap and rotor. What else should I be thinking about to keep this thing in good shape? Thanks, Matt.
  8. Thanks for the replies but I seem to be going in the wrong direction. What should I do for more torque down low, where I would use it the most driving around town? Matt.
  9. Not looking for a big power gain, this is a daily driver, just want to be as efficiant as possible. Motor is completely stock EA82 in a 92 4WD Loyale, 5spd. I was thinking of going with the stock Y-pipe to a highflow cat then 2" back with a turbo muffler. What would this do to performance and MPG? Matt.
  10. Thanks for the replies. The leval is correct according to the dipstick and the gear oil is 80-90. It isn't foamy like soap bubbles, you can just see a lot of bubbles in it. Everything shifts fine. It's funny, but I can't for the life of me remember if I've seen this before or not. Must be getting old. Matt.
  11. Just checked the gear oil in the tranny today an noticed litlle bubbles in the gear oil on the stick. I've never noticed this before as I remember but then, it's been a while. Is this normal?
  12. Well, I drove it from Denver to Iowa and back a number of times, then I gave it to a kid who has been driving it ever since. He's taken it to Nebraska at least three times that I know of and drives it to school every day. I know for a fact that those same plugs are still in it. I keep after him to change them but it's a miracle when I can get him to change the oil, let alone anything else. Matt.
  13. Hate to be the fly in the ointment here guys but I've used the platinum fours and they worked great. Better idle, better off the line . The motor is still running strong, no problems. I've heard a lot of people here put them down, and I'm not offering any hard proof or trying to be a PITA, just offering a dissenting view. Matt.
  14. Is there a VIN code or another way to id a car as having the limited slip option?
  15. NGK's in a Bronco! Now I've heard it all. I run Autolites in the old Bronco and in the Mustang, they seem to work great. I'm surprised people are so opposed to the Bosch platinum's here. I ran them in that wagon and they worked great, I never had any fouling problems and they smoothed it out and made a marked improvement to the NGK's I had been running. I never had any heat related problems either. In fact, we gave that car to a kid we know and he's still driving it, as far as I know those platinums are still in it.
  16. Thanks for the reply, it seems people here really like the NGK's. I used the Bosch platinum 4's in a 91 Loyale and they seemed to make a big difference, just curious what others thought. Matt.
  17. Anyone using the Bosch, or any other platinum 4 plugs?
  18. There's a shop here in Denver called S-Wing, awsome Suby shop, great guys, very honest, excellent work. The owner, Mike, was just telling me about this machine he got from BG. I guess you bolt it right up to the throttle body and it uses solvent down the intake, through the valves and into the compression chambers to do a pretty hardcore clean up on the motor. He says that he's seen leak downs go from 40's down to 5%. Compression go from all over the place like you're talking to steady 130's. Between crap on the valves keeping them from sealing and gunked up rings like Van said I guess it really makes a difference. He calls the machine "The Fogger", when all that gunk comes out the tail pipe it makes quite a mess. Matt.
  19. Thanks for the reply, that's pretty cool info about the timing belts. I have decided on a complete rebuild or replacement though. Matt.
  20. 93 Loyale 210K, engine runs but knocks. Have ruled out detonation pinging etc. The timing belts have also not been changed, neither has the oil or water pumps, clutch is original. Any one of these could just be swapped out but with so many time bombs I would rather just pull the motor once. This is going to be a daily driver, I don't need anything special, just want it to last. Options seem to be: 1) Pull and rebuild existing motor, providing it is rebuildable. Overbores are apparently not an option so can the sleeves be replaced or will I just need to find another core if mine is too far out of round? Also how far can cranks be ground and rods resized? I've rebuilt small block Fords and I-6's but will probably farm this out, what am I looking at price wise? 2) Crate motor rebuilders. Any good ones out there? I know about CCR, any others? 3) Buying a used motors from one of the wherehouse operations. Any favorites out there? Please let me know what you think of these options, which you would reccomend etc. Also, if you have any other ideas. Thanks, Matt.
  21. Looked at the car today. It's in OK shape but the motor will need some work. The timing belts were changed about 100K miles back and there does seem to be a slight knock. I'm going to look into a replacement motor/rebuild and will post a thread to that affect. Thanks for all the ideas. Matt.
  22. I'm assuming then that you can buy standard bore replacement sleeves.
  23. Sorry if this has been covered to death. I was told that the EA82's can't be bored out. Is this true? So are the only pistons available stanard size? Also, are there any cams available or do people just re-use the old ones?
  24. Thanks for the replies. My first thought was the tick as well, but the owner says it's more of a knock. Fox, thanks for the dignosis help, I'll listen for that. I'll be gone all day today, then I go to look at the car at 5:00 so I'll let you know what happens. Thanks again, Matt.
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