pbilt
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When you did your timing belts which marks on the flywheel did you use the three marks and you line the center one up to the marker on the bellhousing or the top dead center marks on the flywheel
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I never have the return line hooked up on my Weber's they all run fine if you have the hookup though it doesn't hurt to hook it up what about the coolant passage on the intake manifold did you ever seal that when you put the Weber on mine are welded shut but people do it with a piece of screen and JB Weld also
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Check timing belts could have jumped its a long shot. check if its arching anywhere start it up at night and look around a spray bottle will help if you can' see any arching
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When you did the swap did you plug the water Inlet on the manifold anybody's done to 3236 loves it over the crapTachi that's the first thing I do when I get a Subaru take carb off and swap it trans dapt 2107 is the one peice adaptor plates for the 32/36 you just need the smaller air filter
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I' Just doing the 2" blocks not buying a kit I thought I seen some lifts where they put a block on the top hat' in the rear springs but after looking at mine it looks like I need to put another bracket dropping down 2" and welding or bolting it to the other bracket
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Sweet thanks man I appreciate it
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Does anybody have any pictures of how to lift the rear suspension on a 85 GL wagon front is already done 2 Inch spacers the write-up on the 2 inch lift is gone since they updated this website
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everything work before you wired the pump? is the 87 fuel pump controlled by its own system not a relay if it was wired backwards could he have shorted that box out i know the pump should prime and stop till the distributor starts spinning long shot but if it was working before the pump and not after it was wired backwards id start there if you already checked fuses do a parasitic draw test something is drawing alot of power do the test on your fusible links also
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did the weber ever get jetted or float adjusted is it electric pump if the pump is running can you see gas going into the carb with out cranking the engine or touching the gas
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the 2 yellows go to - one from the harness other to the distributor. the 2 black whites go to+. you may have 3 yellows one runs to the dash one comes from the harness and one goes to the distributor i unhooked the one that goes to the dash i dont know what it does tack works still. the black wire that has the condenser on it goes with the yellow - so - side of coil has 2 yellows and the black condenser wire + has 2 black whites. the coil bracket has to be mounted to the strut tower it grounds it the condenser bolts to the top bolt of the coil bracket and the end that is not connected to the coil grounds to the bolt on the water neck of the block and another ground wire from water neck to body
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sweet that answered everything i was wondering about thank you i have the dual range also so 23 spline seams like alot of parts to find just for bigger brakes if it was a considerable difference in handling like night and day i would do the swap ill think about it after i run out of parts in the parts car thanks for the time
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had me stumped for months if not a year till i was talking to some one and put me on the right track i hope this helps someone cause no one eles has heard of this before everyone just says plugs and wires whitch is the first thing i thought also
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check and make sure you dont have a hot touching the block o2 sensor, fans, ext also by the battery there is a round plug that the main engine harness plugs into that is a common spot from the battery rubbing i had the exact same problem i used this thread to prove to people im not the only one to have this problem mine turned out to be a hot in the main harness touching the block i fxed that car runs fine now try a parasitic draw test probably wont help if your battery isnt dying though
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if this is not dead yet i had the exact same problem turned out to be a short in the main engine harness mine was 85 cali carbed emissions weber swapped
