ClassySoob
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Posts posted by ClassySoob
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1 hour ago, DaveT said:
Are you not getting heat, or is the blower not spinning?
I'm not getting anything as of now. It used to work great, then I started to have to play with the buttons and turning the on and off to get it to work and the defrost selection stop working. Now it doesn't work at all.
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Hey guys,
I got my 85 FrankinSoob GL, my heater recently went out. I was wondering what the most common problem is that could cause the heater to stop before I tear into it. For a while I had to play with the buttons turn them on and off until it would come on. But now no matter how much I mess with it, it does not work. The fan motor seems pretty simple to get to, but before I tear apart the dash, is there any I should check first? All the fuses are fine. I noticed the selector switch is vacuum based, so where is the vacuum actuator that runs it. Any control relays I could check? Lemme know what your experiences with this.
Thanks,
Daniel
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43 minutes ago, Steptoe said:
I called a thread repair guy who charged more than a kit was worth, but restored it to M11 and never had any more trouble. If I had bought a kit, it would have 18 years of dust on it now and likely lost for next time I needed it
I've thought about a shop, but like you said that's pretty pricey. I don't have alot of cash and need my car haha. I've done some fix a threads before, but never on a head bolt. I did some more searching and found the right size helicoli set for $40. So I think I might chance it
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Hey guys,
So I'm in the middle of a re-ring on my 97 2.2L, I was getting ready to reinstall the heads and a couple of my threads spun. I mounted the heads and went through the first step of tightening, which was 22 ft-lbs. When I started the second step of 51 ft-lbs, I barely started on the number one bolt and it spun. This happened on both side same #1 bolt. I was wonder which is a better repair, heli coli, or rethread to a bigger size like M12x1.25. I've searched around and can't really find the M11x1.25 thread repair kit besides pricey ones.
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Hey guys,
So I'm in the middle of a re-ring on my 97 2.2L, I was getting ready to reinstall the heads and a couple of my threads spun. I mounted the heads and went through the first step of tightening, which was 22 ft-lbs. When I started the second step of 51 ft-lbs, I barely started on the number one bolt and it spun. This happened on both side same #1 bolt. I was wonder which is a better repair, heli coli, or rethread to a bigger size like M12x1.25. I've searched around and can't really find the M11x1.25 thread repair kit besides pricey ones.
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So I compression tested each cylinder today. I went 7 strokes on each cylinder a couple times each. On the first stroke each cylinder started at around 100psi, then went up to the peak numbers. Here are my results
Cyl #1: 150psi
Cyl #2: 153psi
Cyl #3: was low first test, about 125 psi then went up to 140 psi on previous test.
Cyl#4: 155 psi.
My book says that the compression should be in between 156psi and 185 psi. So these numbers are lower. I inspected the spark plugs and all looked like normal oxidization, but #3 was a lil more corroded then the rest.
23 minutes ago, FerGloyale said:Replace the rings while the heads are off.
Otherwise, you will do a valve job and then be pissed when the engine still smokes.
Don't hone the cyls. Don't split the block.
I'll have to inspect the bearings while I'm in there. If there is any wear on them I might as well replace them while I'm this far. How easy is it to remove the pistons without splitting the block?
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I Posted this same post in the 90s to Present page, but they have yet to answer me.
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56 minutes ago, 88SubGL said:
You said you see some smoke coasting and then see more smoke when you accelerate after you were coasting? If that’s correct, then it’s valve related. When you’re coasting the engine creates more vacuum, pulling oil by the valves and into the cylinder, then when you accelerate you burn the excess oil and you see it more out your tailpipe. You may also see smoke when you first start it up in the morning. If it’s rings, you will see smoke every time you accelerate from a stop sign or traffic light.
I don't really see it while coasting downhill only when I press on the gas after. It's does puff some smoke when I start it up sometimes (not all the time) but usually that one puff is all and it stops.
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Hey guys,
Ive got an up coming rebuild on my EJ22 engine. I bought the engine and swapped it in with I think 170k miles. Once it was all running, I noticed it burns oil and blows bluish sliver smoke out the exhaust sometimes (especially coasting downhill in gear, then acclerating is when it blows smoke the most). But I've drove it to get me by, but now I want to address the issue. I think it may be bad rings or valve steam seals. Doesn't really feel like it has any loose of compression. This will be my first 2.2 rebuild, so I'm looking for any advise. What should I looks for while tearing down this engine? How are the cylinder walls and pistons usually? When I did the rebuild on my old EA82 with over 200k miles, the cylinders were still in excellent condition with the factory cross hatching still visible. I hoping to get by with out having to reboar the cylinders to a bigger size. Any advise would help greatly. Thank you for reading!!!
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35 minutes ago, el_freddo said:
You’ll see the same cross hatching in your EJ engine.
Probably best to post in the EJ to present models subforum for best results with answers.
Most will probably tell you to get a good second hand unit. But they’re easy enough to work on.
Provided you haven’t broken any rings or ring landings, the bores should be fine.
You could also try replacing the PCV valve so see if that changes the oil burning.
Also do a compression check, why repalce rings etc if it’s just valve stem seals? This could be done without removing the heads with the right tools too.
Cheers
Bennie
Okay, I'll test the compression first. I compared the weight of the legacy outback and the GL, the GL is almost 1000 pounds lighter than the legacy. So I might not be able to tell a lose of compression, so I'll have to rent a compression tool and test them out. Thanks!!!
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Hey guys,
Ive got an up coming rebuild on my EJ22 engine. I bought the engine and swapped it in with I think 170k miles. Once it was all running, I noticed it burns oil and blows bluish sliver smoke out the exhaust sometimes (especially coasting downhill in gear, then acclerating is when it blows smoke the most). But I've drove it to get me by, but now I want to address the issue. I think it may be bad rings or valve steam seals. Doesn't really feel like it has any loose of compression. This will be my first 2.2 rebuild, so I'm looking for any advise. What should I looks for while tearing down this engine? How are the cylinder walls and pistons usually? When I did the rebuild on my old EA82 with over 200k miles, the cylinders were still in excellent condition with the factory cross hatching still visible. I hoping to get by with out having to reboar the cylinders to a bigger size. Any advise would help greatly. Thank you for reading!!!
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1 hour ago, MWLoyale said:
What are the necessary bits to swap an awd transmission from a 1988 gl coupe into my 1993 loyale? Has anyone ever done this?
Thanks
Does your 93 have 4wd now? Or is it just fwd?
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40 minutes ago, FerGloyale said:
If your donor is pre 95 yes,
You want a 90-94 rear diff. 95+ will have the wrong type of axle mating.
Okay . My engine is out of a 97, but it should still bolt straight up to a pre 95 trans right?
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2 hours ago, FerGloyale said:
EJ hubs won't fit EA struts. EJ axles are too long. EJ brakes don't have E-brake. Balljoints wrong size, tierods wrong size. 5 lug rear hubs needed to match.
Just swap to EA turbo axles, and a 4.11 rear diff with male stubs.
Doing a whole 5lug swap is quite the endeavor.
Good to know. Can I use the diff from the donor? Thanks!!!
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57 minutes ago, FerGloyale said:
sounds like a 4.11 A EJ trans, (from 90-96 Legacy, Outback or Impreza sport) would be the best fit for what you want.
You don't need the Dual range if your not serious offroading.
You will need Turbo EA axles (25 spline), custom shortened center driveline, custom shortened shifter (Modify the EAshifter ) and a custom crossmember and center mount cradle. And EJ flywheel and clutch set. this will delete the adapter plate and redrilled flywheel. So you could sell those to make back some $.
That trans will give you shorter 1st gear, and taller 5th gear. And could accept the even taller 5th gear set from Forrester turbo.
Awesome!!!! That would be perfect thank you. What if I were to loose the EA huds and axles and swap in the EJ hubs? How well does that work? I was thinking on finding a wrecked donor and completely swap the drive train.
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19 hours ago, el_freddo said:
Depends on what you put in. The EA AWD box will bolt straight in but will need MPFI shafts for the larger diff stub output shafts.
EJ box will need custom crossmember, tailshaft, possibly gear selector linkages and matching rear diff ratio of swapping ratios. And you’ll need the MPFI drive shaft for the larger diff stub output shaft.
When you say “go up the mountains” - does this mean offroad or on the black top through the twisties?
Cheers
Bennie
I mean up the mountain like riding up national Forest trails some which can get steep, but nothing extreme as my custom exhaust kinda shortened my ground clearance. So if the road gets to rough I'm likely to scrape my pipes.
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I don't want to build it into a severe offroader, I have my ol S10 Blazer for that haha. This car is my daily runner, but sometimes I just get the urge to cruise up the mountains. So I want something that could cruise at highway speeds comfortably, but has no problem in the mountains if I decided to take a detour.
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9 hours ago, el_freddo said:
Correct.
Trans swap is involved either way you go.
Cheers
Bennie
Thank you!. What all would a trans swap require?
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33 minutes ago, el_freddo said:
You guys are kind of stuck in America if you like the dual range.
With those wheels you should be alright to pull that speed. For a period of time it probably won’t be fun.
You could drop in the RXII AWD dual range box, swap the low range to the good L series version, swap the diff output stubs while you’re there too.
Fourth ratio can’t be swapped without swapping 3rd as well. One side of the gearing (I can’t remember off the top of my head if it’s the top or bottom set) are cast/“stuck” together. 5th gear is a Lone Ranger and can be swapped independently - and the EJ phase 1 5th ratios are a direct swap.
In the RX box you might find those ratios a bit more user friendly for what you want. These ratios are “wide” as opposed to the NA set that are “close”. The AWD box has the same internals as the EJ internals with the exception to the dual range - which makes single and dual range internals NOT interchangeable.
I’ve got the RXII AWD box behind my EJ22, 4.111:1 diff ratio (not an easy swap but possible with a machinist!), turning 27 inch diametre tyres, matched speedo. I put in a different 5th ratio that turned out to be too short (same as what you’re running now - 0.87:1 - I wanted 0.78 from memory, the box I think came with 0.73:1 - which I should’ve just tried in the first place.).
So you’ve got some options, but they’re limited if you’re married to the dual range. If dual range doesn’t matter, you’ve got loads of options from the EJ box series.
Cheers
Bennie
Thanks for the tip, I'd like to try play with the gearing a little first before I decide to trans swap. So you are saying I could take the 5th gear set from the phase 1 EJ and it will fit right in? If I do go with a different trans there is a wrecked Forrester with an AWD manual that would be a good a candidate. What modifications would this swap inquire?
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6 hours ago, idosubaru said:
XT6 has similar weight and hp (145 hp) as an EJ22 swapped EA vehicle. I run 10% larger tires so speedo says 70 when it’s doing 77. They aren’t heavy off-road tires, use 16” aluminum wheels and can end up with better gas mileage as well. Not much difference in my local mountainous commute but I can get 28 mpg in the automatic XT6 when doing a frequent long trip at 65 mph on flat and very rural roads.
What transmission are you running? Does the 16" wheels strain it any?
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Hey guys, I got my 85 FrankinSoob GL with EJ22 swap. I have a few questions about some future build plans. Rather than have a bunch of posts I thought I'd only compile one. So here it goes
A) Has anyone played with the gearing in the stock EA 5speed with the dual range? I really like this transmission, but it doesn't quite have the gearing for today's highway speeds. I want to lengthen the ratios for 4 and 5 to where I can cruise at 80 comfortably. Or is it just best to do the trans swap?
B)Does anyone know the weight difference between the EJ and EA flywheels? I want to lighten the EA flywheel a little bit to get higher rpm without harming the engine. But also not enough to loose a substantial amount of low end torque. I read a build thread that mentioned using the XT flywheel, but finding one of those in my area might be a little hard.
C) Lifting? I want to do a small suspension lift but preferably don't want to lift the body. What's the max height you can go before the CVs are at to much of an angle to cause damage? I found an old GL at the local UPull that looked to have a 4in suspension lift with a 3in body lift. But that's a little more than I desire.
Thanks for reading!!! If you have answers please I would love to hear. Cheers.
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7 hours ago, el_freddo said:
I’ve got the factory Y pipe from the Gen1 EJ22 on my L, so there’s no issue with the factory bash plate.
UELs in the style of the turbo exhaust manifold (with the pipe crossing under the front of the engine but usually reversed to the turbo setup) can be made to have little to no change to the bash plate. The trick is to keep it up high and possible make a heat shield for the cam covers.
To make a decent note you’ll need mufflers that don’t muffle the sound so well - straight through mufflers seem to do this well. A decent exhaust shop should sort this out no issue.
This is my setup from 9 years ago. It’s still running now without any issues even though I’ve scraped it, rocked on it and flooded it with water...
you can hear the exhaust in this video once it changes to the outside camera:
That said, the aftermarket UEL sound is sweet. We did some DIY ones for my sister’s Gen3 RX. The other day as it pulled into our driveway I was waiting to check out the WRX that I thought was about to drive past! It’s got a cat back “sports exhaust” from the previous owner, the UELs make it Subaru spec now. No video of that I’m sorry.
Pic of the build process:
and the final product - I forgot to get a pic of it fitted:
with this setup we can return it to stock if need be as we’ve not modified any points where joints occur in the exhaust, really though, why would you go back to stock??
Cheers
Bennie
Sweet thank you so much. My exhaust right now has the Stock Y pipe with a 12" cherry bomb center piped and a thrush turbo muffler at the tail. This combination seems to work well and sounds nice, I'll see if I can post a video of what it sounds like now.
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Hey guys,
I have my 85 FrankinSoob GL with the 2.2L swap. I was wondering if anyone has installed UEL headers on their 2.2 swap? I want to give my ol GL that "Subaru rumble", but I'm unsure if the pipes would fit with the skip plate. But I don't really want to loose the skid plate. Has anyone done this with theirs, and if so, how dude the fit?
Thanks,
Daniel
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Heater stopped working
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
Where are the actuators located? And what line connects to the engine. I have a swapped 2.2, but it has worked since I swapped the engine.