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The springs were inline just like most coilovers. I'm sure it does help to have them angled but I still think that the problem came from the wrong lubricant. I now run the non-inverted HotBits coilovers since '14, Back then, I also feeled that they were not as smooth as OEM struts even with softer spring rates so I decided to test different oils, ATF Dexron III being the oil used by HotBits. I first tried Citroën LHM, a little better but not good enough, then I tried Motorex 10W fork oil, and suddenly the stick-slip effect was gone but the damping was too firm so I changed for Motorex 2,5W....and now I have a flying carpet ! So from my experience, the right oil is the most important when it comes to shock absorbers.

I understand that you won't give more details about your struts as you are trying to sell them. I was just curious as I had Proflex Evo 2 inverted struts that didn't work as smooth as yours by the looks in the videos, and it was nothing to do with spring rate and/or hydraulic setup, only stick-slip due to bad bearing (though PTFE) and lubrication of the bearings. I think that they were not designed to be Mc Pherson type struts from the begining. I finally sold them cheap....

Nice videos ! Would you make any of your coilovers, how you build them inside and out, what parts you used, spring rates and the stroke you get out of them. Would love to see all the engineering involved for the fabrication.

2019 is going to be a very interesting.....happy new year !

Interesting about the 6MT low range, where will you install it ? In the gearbox like the 5MT (is there any space ?) or outside the gearbox more like a transfer case ? Did you take any pics of the bronze blocker rings you made ?

Cool videos, not sure the ones you're talking about. Ozark ?

I'm working on it but it won't be finished before 2-3 months because the air pistons have to be machined to my specs. They will be done by 3rd grade students at a mechanical school.

Thank you, beautiful jumps ! Looks like the Forester does it as well as the Outback. I'm working on my suspension too, I'm fabricating some air lift pistons that will be located under the springs, around the strut housing. The gain will be of 45mm from my current height, no wheel travel/stroke loss but 45mm less droop when lifted. I'll use a 1,5 liter 3300psi scuba tank to feed the pistons at 200psi. Well, its not meant for jumping, more for ground clearance over big ruts/rocks.

We want more of those flying Subaru pics !

No, I still have the oem SF axles at the rear. But if needed, I think that it would be possible with a bit of machining to put front SVX axles at the rear though. I don't know the differences between SVX and Forester rear axles.

Don't buy the Heri axles, waste of money... The SVX axles went just fine on the diff but had to be machined to fit the Forester hubs. I also had to widen the front track with SG A-arms. http://offroadsubarus.com/showthread.php?t=7143

I had a set of Heri axles on my Forester, good design but fair quality. I replaced them with SVX axles, 30° vs 25° for the Forester. Now you would have to adapt them to the rear diff to make them work...

Thats some beautiful pics, thanks for sharing. Have you started the long travel coilovers for the BH Outback yet ?

Yes, even 215/70R16 will fit without rubbing

Yeah, but sometimes you think that everything has been "discovered" and you find something new...just like EUDM BG Outback exhaust, SVX front axles...

Its not really possible to get more stroke from the oem struts, maybe only with cartridges but its quite difficult to find some with more stroke than stock oem Subarus. Lately, I went to my friends garage, he's a mechanic, an I looked under a Nissan X-trail from early '00 and the rear struts seemed to be a little longer with more stroke than the Subaru struts but the same design. I'll try to find the specs on the net to compare.

True, when the links are shorter than the axles, the tripod bottoms to the inside of the cups at full droop. Older BG Outbacks have a better design as the links are nearly the same length as the axles.

That would be some huge wheel travel !

The 3rd cv joint from the left looks the same as an SVX. What are the lengths compressed and extended ? And is the outer cv 3mm larger than a Forester cv ?

They came out of a 4WD SVX, no FWD SVX were imported to Switzerland

Front SVX axles are 10mm longer than SF Forester axles and inner cv's have 30° plunge. I had to change for SG Forester A-arms though,10mm longer, to fit them. https://www.forum4x4.org/threads/117587-Subaru-forester?p=3242100&viewfull=1#post3242100 https://www.forum4x4.org/threads/117587-Subaru-forester?p=3227026&viewfull=1#post3227026

Low range oil feeders at page 15 http://offroadsubarus.com/showthread.php?t=5529&page=15

That seemed to be a real adventure. When possible, it is allways better to stay in high range as the low range pinions are not well lubricated on long steep climbs. Some guys have added oil feeders to help preventing low range issues. http://offroadsubarus.com/showthread.php?t=5529

The R/C car wheels are very small thus why he uses 2 pulses per wheel rotation but from what I understand, the Arduino could use many more pulses as it would only be used over big ruts at low speed for our application. The helical diffs I have front and rear are torque sensitive meaning I would just need light braking on the spinning wheel(s) to send torque to the most gripping wheel(s). Theorically, I think it should work but now we have to make it and see...

I want to try another way of having traction control because its fun to adapt things between each other ! I want to keep my Forester because its shorter than an Outback, is more luminous, has better angles...and I'm used to it. Have you looked at the Arduino link ? If you once again travel south, come to Switzerland and France and we can go offroading together.