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jf1sf5

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About jf1sf5

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Geneva
  • Referral
    EJ22 swap and long travel suspension
  • Biography
    I am joiner but love mechanics so I am in the long process of modifying my Forester to become a multi purpose vehicle.
  • Vehicles
    '97 Forester

Recent Profile Visitors

84 profile views
  1. I maybe didn't use the right word. I thought that the shims were the washers used to slow up the piston in the shocks. How do you name this part ? Valving washers ?
  2. Maybe on the Fox shocks is it easier to change the shims but on the HotBits, I would have to drain the oil too thus why I changed the viscosity of the oil instead of the shims. The recommended nitrogen pressure is around 8bar/120psi and I went up to 12bar/180psi and everything is still fine, nothing's leaking, the nitrogen in the canisters is separate from the oil with a floating piston, not a membrane, this maybe helps for more precise oil filling keeping the seals in good operating conditions.
  3. Very true about the viscosity of the different oil brands. The official measures are done at 40°C and 100°C and are measured in cSt (1 centi-stoke = 1mm2/s). Another way to modify the dampening is to change the hydraulic settings (shims) but thats a longer work. The easiest way is to change the nitrogen pressure, its not as accurate but it still helps finding the right settings.
  4. The springs were inline just like most coilovers. I'm sure it does help to have them angled but I still think that the problem came from the wrong lubricant. I now run the non-inverted HotBits coilovers since '14, Back then, I also feeled that they were not as smooth as OEM struts even with softer spring rates so I decided to test different oils, ATF Dexron III being the oil used by HotBits. I first tried Citroën LHM, a little better but not good enough, then I tried Motorex 10W fork oil, and suddenly the stick-slip effect was gone but the damping was too firm so I changed for Motorex 2,5W....and now I have a flying carpet ! So from my experience, the right oil is the most important when it comes to shock absorbers.
  5. I understand that you won't give more details about your struts as you are trying to sell them. I was just curious as I had Proflex Evo 2 inverted struts that didn't work as smooth as yours by the looks in the videos, and it was nothing to do with spring rate and/or hydraulic setup, only stick-slip due to bad bearing (though PTFE) and lubrication of the bearings. I think that they were not designed to be Mc Pherson type struts from the begining. I finally sold them cheap....
  6. Nice videos ! Would you make any of your coilovers, how you build them inside and out, what parts you used, spring rates and the stroke you get out of them. Would love to see all the engineering involved for the fabrication.
  7. 2019 is going to be a very interesting.....happy new year !
  8. Interesting about the 6MT low range, where will you install it ? In the gearbox like the 5MT (is there any space ?) or outside the gearbox more like a transfer case ? Did you take any pics of the bronze blocker rings you made ?
  9. Cool videos, not sure the ones you're talking about. Ozark ?
  10. I'm working on it but it won't be finished before 2-3 months because the air pistons have to be machined to my specs. They will be done by 3rd grade students at a mechanical school.
  11. Thank you, beautiful jumps ! Looks like the Forester does it as well as the Outback. I'm working on my suspension too, I'm fabricating some air lift pistons that will be located under the springs, around the strut housing. The gain will be of 45mm from my current height, no wheel travel/stroke loss but 45mm less droop when lifted. I'll use a 1,5 liter 3300psi scuba tank to feed the pistons at 200psi. Well, its not meant for jumping, more for ground clearance over big ruts/rocks.
  12. We want more of those flying Subaru pics !
  13. No, I still have the oem SF axles at the rear. But if needed, I think that it would be possible with a bit of machining to put front SVX axles at the rear though. I don't know the differences between SVX and Forester rear axles.
  14. Don't buy the Heri axles, waste of money... The SVX axles went just fine on the diff but had to be machined to fit the Forester hubs. I also had to widen the front track with SG A-arms. http://offroadsubarus.com/showthread.php?t=7143
  15. I had a set of Heri axles on my Forester, good design but fair quality. I replaced them with SVX axles, 30° vs 25° for the Forester. Now you would have to adapt them to the rear diff to make them work...
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