Jdfieldsjr

The steering rack is fine. Trans fluid definitely slowly drops. I've owned multiple 97-98 legacy/outbacks since my first new leased 98 outback, all automatics and they all operated pretty much the same. This is the first auto shift problem I've had.

So after putting about 500 miles on this drivetrain since fixing the engine, resealing transmission pan and filling with fresh fluid and 1 can Trans-x the shift pattern is inconsistant 2-3-4. 1-2 is firm, 2-3 can be firm or soft or flare or almost skipped going from 2-4. Manual shifting is normal. Forced downshift from 4-3 is normal firm and positive. I do have what appears to be a front pump seal leak, red trans fluid dripping off of engine cradle and front diff, so im condtantly checking fluid level and adding if needed to keep full. I have no history on this car, complete drivetrain was swapped out sometime in life, and it sat for 9 months before being put back on road. Any thoughts?

Those hub/wheel assemblies will come apart if you flat tow that legacy without the front axles or the outer joints installed. That pressfit is not going to keep it together, you wont get more than a mile.

Engine oil pressure light went out in less than 15 seconds with original oil pump reinstalled. Finished assembling the engine and she fired right up. Live and learn, won't repeat that mistake. Engine sounds good, cooling system bled out easily, cooling fans came on. Knock sensor threw code so will replace that. I'll drive it and prove the drive train out before putting anymore effort into it.

I know the o ring is there and I reinstalled the old pump. I will try the oil filter removal, crank and reinstall trick. Thanks all! I will confirm success or failure.

Reinstalling the original pump was in my thoughts as well. At least I know it works.

Slightly but it was that way before repair and it had oil pressure.

I picked up this 98 outback limited with bent valves on passenger side for cheap. It has 149,000 on it but the engine and trans were replaced sometime in its life and it had newer Felpro head gaskets. Any way I replaced 2 bent exhaust valves, new head gasket, timing belt, water pump, Idlers, tensioner, and figured I'd replace the oil pump too. Its not genuine Subaru but CNS branded higher volume pump. Well it's all back together but the pump will not pressure up, there is absolutely no flow. I removed the sparkplugs. Changed oil with new filter, filling filter like always, before i attemptedt to crank and pressure up oiling system. I cranked several times for about 20 seconds and nothing. I removed the oil pressure switch and cranked the car and nothing still, it is dry. I have never had that happen before. This is my first Subaru cylinder head repair and 2.5 timing belt but not first engine repair by any means. Im at a loss, I dont wsnt to have to pull.the front of engine aoart again but it looks like i.may have too. Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks Jerry

Owning a 2005 OBXT has been a costly proposition for the miles I've driven. I bought it 2.5 years old with 56,000 miles on it. This car is only for those that have deep pockets or can do their own repairs. Full suspension, turbo plus all necessary oiling system upgrades and replacements, catless up pipe and decatted down pipe. These models have plenty of foibles. Thankfully I can do all my own repairs and they are still costly! Also it is not driven in winter and only 6000 miles a year, total miles on car 96,000. My next one will be an 09 6 cylinder and it will still need a full suspension upgrade to be the car it should be.