87subbomber

if theres a turbo xt id be looking for the lsd and also the 5 lug swap long before swapping engines.

I contacted subaru as my ignition switch is jacked, need a whole column with keys, they cant get a key made apparently. My opinion is 6 lug, tires can be had for dirt cheap. as far as a turbo engine swap, your in for a hurting. Dave is right, for the cost an ej swap can done for probably cheaper, and more reliable and still room for some aftermarket power adders. 40% increase in power and torque is great. The 2.2 is a great engine, id go 2.5 for the extra torque for 4x4 days. dont like fuel injection? go carb and have sjr lift hook you up with the stuff to make an ej carbed. remember parts are getting scarce in the ea81/ea82 world.they dont even make oil pumps anymore.

learned my 1987 GL 4x4 has a hill holder and got really angry when she wouldnt roll. fixed that. also got a new rack and pinion today.

thanks dave t. mines a manual, forgot to mention that. looks like im going to have to bite the bullet and spend $900 to get a rebuilt one

so i just resealed my engine and its working great, especially with the weber swap. however, when i pulled the engine i did not think about reaealing the transmission and it is leaking, from everywhere! can i get just a reseal kit? How hard is it to reseal? it is getting a little hard to go into reverse so i am considering a full blown rebuild at th cost of $900. anybody know a reputable shop in northern az that can do it for cheaper? thanks in advance for input

so, i finally got the car to idle and drive smoothly! i had a bad vaccuum leak, fixed that. retarded timing to 14° btdc, and of course looked at plugs and wires. in looking at plugs and wires, noticed firing order is wrong!i had cylinder 2 and 4 plug wires backwards! i think i lost three wrenches knocked over some boxes and sent the neighbors cat back over the fence! (not serious, lol). switched wires and poof, it runs. thanks Ultimate Subaru for this board. without reading a post about a wrong firing order from 5 years ago, i wouldnt have figured it out

will that two pin plug fit the alternator? i managed to break mine and need a new plug. it looks the same

why not by an ej25 shortblock and use ej202 heads and use a thick headgasket to bring compression down? it will me gobbs of torque and still have decent milage to cruise on. building a hybrid stroker is not an easy task. it looks like you are doing it backwards. start with a 2.5 block, use an ej22 crank and custom rods and pistons will get you about 2.35 liters if i recall. that is if you want to spend that much money and shift your whole powerband higher in the rpm range. i plan on running a carbed ej25 in my 87 GL this summer, and looked into the 2.35 setup but it wont make the torque of a 2.5 and lots of money on custom parts (rods and pistons). since this will be my wheeler, im going simple and a 2.5 will be put on place

get all the tire size matching if they are not. diameter differences will give you a major bind, and major wear on the differential and transmission. they are engineered to allow a maximum difference in height between tires. if the diff or tires are mismatched, it means the tires are spinning opposite speeds. that causes binding if say the fronts are spinning 20mph and the rear are spinning slower or faster.

how much weight in the trailer? i wouldnt go more than 1000lbs in the trailer for that long of a haul. dont get me wrong my 87 gl has towed a 6000lb truck on a chain for a 100 mile stretch including a steep mountain grade. smart? not really, but it did the job.

i wouldnt put any vehicle in 4-wheel unless im stopped, but thats just me. i would do a complete check on trans fluid and rear diff fluid. since its having a hard time going back to 2wd i would guess its more transfer case/transmission oriented

ignition timing is at 10°. ran great until weber swap, going to try and adjust the idle mixture screw and also ignition timing since ill have an extra set of hands.

I didnt think of checking the ignition timing. will i get an accurate reading if the engine is just turning over and not idling? i can get it running to about 3k as i mentioned, but at those rpms wouldnt the vacuumm advance be kicked in and not be accurate anyways? excuse the noob questions, only other carbed vehicle is my 1982 chevy truck, im new to carbs really

so i did my weber conversion and i cannot get it to idle. it attempts to start, but has a burst of fuel shoot out the top of the carb. the idle jets are 50/55, 140/140 main and secondaries. i did get it started but i have to keep it above 3000rpm to keep it running. it runs great at that rpm, sounds like a sportscar! the choke works fine. i was told with fuel spraying out the top its running lean and i may need to change the mixture jet. any help is appreciated.

fuel cells will need some creativity as far as the fuel filler neck goes. you can always go custom, but that means doubleing the price most times. i have seen a custom cell for a 1932 model a ford, still had factory fill location but im sure the pennys were really shiny on that job.

old tanks can be bad news. it is possible to repair them, at a cost of labor,welding, chem filming or coating. cant find a tank? fuell cells are safe and servicable. they come in a lot of sizes and dimensions.

as for the electrical, i got my alterator wiring fixed, new plug in and wired properly. got my tach signal from the coil so i have an rpm gauge again. alternator is bad, putting out crap for voltage. I am going to be ordering a the revolution fuel pump controller and is the install goes well and looks clean, i will make a write up out of it. As an extra safety monitor, i will still have my inertia switch wired in even though the fuel pump controller will shut off the pump when there is no tach signal.

got a 3.5 psi pump and went to start it. all of a sudden steam everywhere right when i got it running. i missed blocking off the coolant passage from block to manifold. beginners suck, i mean luck. ordered new gasket. it was dumping coolant in th intake manifold, causing it to flood. it does still sound very mean even burng more coolant than fuel lol

thanks for the reply i checked pressure, pump had ran way over its stated pressure, all the way to 6.5 psi. I figure ill order a carter or install my 4 psi pump and a regulator. where should i position the regulator if i go this route?

i guess that does help lol. 1987 gl ea82 sohc carb

so I finally got my weber installed and it started for a few seconds and died. my car does not have the original alternator plug, prior owner used little spade connectors and im not sure what wire/color goes where. so can somebody tell me what wires go where on the alternator? also my fuel pump control unit is bad, so i "had" it hardwired, but it still seems to be flooding even with a return "Y" fitting. so i am ordering a fuel pump controller from revolution electronics. pretty much makes the fuel pump pulse like the factory one and will shut off when there is no tach signal. comes with wiring diagram which is easy!..... unless you are me and know positive/negative and thats it. i need to tie into the tach signal to make it work. I have been trying to do my homework before making a post, but ive been told tap into the tachometer lead for the gauges or get the signal right of the negative side of the coil. can somebody please explain where i need to tap into the wire for a tach signal for this fuel pump controller? any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks again TomRhere. Orderin a switch from rock auto to see if i can make it work next week for th fuel pump. For right now i am using a Ford Inertia switch to shut pump off in the event of collision. I just got the "Y" fitting so i will finish the job tomorrow. i have pictures but im changing net providers so internet is down until friday.

thanks scout and tom. Now, could anybody help me out with wiring the switch in that tom posted a link for? i can read a possitive and negative terminal, but not much more than that in terms of wiring

I finally started my weber conversion. Found out my fuel pump control unit is bad so i have it hard wired. which leaves me to my next set of questions. how can i wire into the oil pressure switch so the fuel pump only comes on when there is oil pressure? this would be good in case of an accident. My next thought is to make it more modern an use an inertia switch that will cut power in a collision. this is safe, easy and fairly cheap ($45). Next set of questions, what do i use for power for choke since fuel pump control unit is bad? I was going to use old choke power, but there is no power lol. After all is said and done i mocked it up. using the transdapt 2107 adapter plate and the 1.75" air cleaner assembly, the hood fully closes. i also have a breather hooked up instead of airbox for the fresh air side. i will post pictures of set up tomorrow evening. I am excited and trying to make everything look like a factory job.

Jezek says to ditch the A.S.V. im ditching both the asv and egr. way simpler and cleaner.